I have a question about my 240D. It runs ok but on a trip you will notice it starting to slow down all of a sudden. It's like someone dragging an anchor looseing speed. Another thing it won't run wide open trottle. If you keep it to the floor on the highway it will go about 75 mph and then it will start really holding back, and the longer you keep it on the floor the worse it gets. I have changed fuel filters purged it etc. Nothing seems to help. Do you possible have any suggestions?

Most likely a fuel restriction.

The tank strainer can be clogged.

The fuel tank vent can be clogged. This is easy to diagnose, you just do a test run on 1/2 tank of fuel, with the fuel cap loose.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

if the tank is clogged then you probably have bacterial mass in it.

did you change the fuel filters? if so were there black dots in it? they are bacteria. if you have them you need to get some biobar bacteria/fungi killer and treat the tank once or twice to kill them off. this will usually kill them and allow them to pass through the system without removing the tank or strainer.

good luck

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I did see some black dots when I changed the primary filter a couple of weeks back. On the fuel tank restriction I am uncertain to understand how loosening the fuel cap at half empty tank and driving it what I am supposed to encounter?? Also, if it is a restriction I don't readily comprehend why it is not there all the time. You can drive 20 to 40 miles before it starts it's fit on backing off like you just took your foot off of the accelerator. On trying to go full throtle it will, more than likely, do it's resistance any time you try to ask for it. It will start pulling back, and if you stay with wide open throtle if would go to zero, but if you back off of it a bit it will come back to life and it will hover back at say 70 mph ok!!

by loosening the cap and driving it, you can see if its a ventalation problem in the tank. the reason why u want the tank no more than half full is because you probably do not want fuel spewing out all over the place.

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1983 Euro 240D 277K
2016 Mazda 6
Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec
Formers:
2012- Mazda 3
2007 Outlander- complete pile
1995 E300 Diesel 208K
2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD
2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K
2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000
2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold
1984 300 turbo diesel 222K

Rebe,

U might have trouble finding Biobor or an equivalent fungacide. I tried many truck stops with no success. Called some Marinas and they did have it either. So I ordered a quart of Biobor from a distrubitor for ~$80. Only a half ounce really works.

Later I found a diluted producct (don't remember name) at a New Holland Dealer. So U might try some tractor dealers in your area.

There is a the quick strainer test but it might not work on a 220D because the tank is under the car. Find test by doing a search on strainer. A small amount of pressurein the tank should tell U if the strainer is plugged. If strainer is plugged, U have to remove it and clean or replace. Fungus will appear as a brown silicon rubber like substance in the filter.

P E H

It sounds like you have some cavitation problems along with bacteria problems clogging up your fuel system! Cavitation usually happens when your fuel tank can't breath because your fuel tank vents are clogged. the best thing to do if you live close to a biodiesel supplier, would be to fill up with Biodiesel, which would kill of the bacteria, open your clogged fuel tank strainer and vent and flush your fuel tank! Then do an Italian tune up and keep a supply of fuel filters with you in the car. When all those dead critters in your fuel liquify, they will flow to your fuel filters and become stuck in there! This is ok, but you will need to change your fuel filters more often and biodiesel will flush a ton of crud and soot from your engine as well! Go to www.biodiesel.org and click the link- find a retailer! Depending on where you live, you shouldn't have to look to far away. Biodiesel retailers are in all 50 states now and most of those are in the midwest. Diesel purge would also be good if you don't have access to Biodiesel, but Biodiesel works best! Let us know what happens!

i respectfully differ with the above post.

i recommend the biocide only. introducing biodiesel has an entire set of problems associated with it. i would only do it with a car that is functioning correctly to begin with.

the thinking is with bacterial infestation that it is floating in the tank. and as you drive it builds up on the strainer at the bottom til it begins to restrict flow. most noticalbe at higher sustained speeds. then sometimes if you stop it will fall away from the strainer and the car will run fine til it begins to build up again.

good luck

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

There is a place close by that sells 20% biodiesel would that work? I don't know of any 80% in this part of the world.

I agree with Tom, take care of the bio-fouling problem before you start playing with bio-diesel (especially in winter). I found biocide at a marine supply place without any problem.

It's true that Biodiesel does not like organic rubber and that is it's biggest setback, but we are only talking about doing this once and seeing if there is any change. If you are going to use Biodiesel full time in B100 strength, then you will need to prep your car for it! I had the same problem you do now when I first purchased my E300D and this method sloved my problem in one tank full of biodiesel! Later on I had to change all my fuel lines to synthetic rubber, but saw no noticeable problems with the one tank fluh method. Biocide works well, but Biodiesel will clear out the bacteria, kill all microbes, and clear out the carbon and soot from your glow plug precombustion chambers! However, all those dead critters liquified will flow through the strainer in your fuel tank, BUT they will get clogged up in your fuel filters pronto! The Methanol in Biodiesel will make natural rubber rot, but you will have plenty of notice first. Natural rubber will swell,become glossy and spongy as well as soft and greasy. All the signs you need new hoses and lines. B20 would definitely help and if this is the strongest mixture you can find, then that is what I would use but you will need to do a biocide or diesel purge first for best results! Let us know what happens! If you do use the Biodiesel method, do it at a time when you can drive enough to burn at least 5 gallons all at once. Biodiesel has simillar characteristics as Diesel #2 in cold flow properties. 5 gallons was enough to really clear up my microbe problem and one trip to Phoenix and back to Gold Canyon puked a ton of crap out of my fuel tank! I did take 3 fuel filters just in case! Making a habit of filling your tank with B20 will help a lot with the future bacteria problem.

There is nothing wrong with bio-diesel, but I wouldn't use B80 in the winter in Kansas (it can get pretty cold there). The best solution for bio-fouling is still a biocide, that's what it's designed for. It will result in some clogged filters and they will need to be changed when they become clogged (carry a couple of spares). Once this problem if fixed, you can consider using bio-diesel if that's what you want to do.

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Hello All

I have had a similar problem with my 82 300D

The car was getting air into the fuel system.

Check out this link to what I did to resolve the problem.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=173175

Thank You
Rich Coffman

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the biocide is also widely available at farm supply houses and truck repair places.

i dont know the economics of running the bio diesel but it sounds like a substantial potential investment in hoses and such that generally last at least 23 years if the fuel is used that they are designed for.

good luck

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Well, I do appreciate all the help!! I did find the problem. It will now run out on the top end floor. The problem was a restriction, as was, mentioned here. I replaced the secondary filter. It looked real bad. Now, I have decided to get some of that biocide-like rancor or bio bor-and see if I can get control on that fungus. I, also, plan to get me a few filters to carry along with me for potential got stranded aids. They say 20 to 30K on the secondary filter on replacement. I think I will cut that in half no more than they cost & ease of replacement. I thought that primary was the catch all, but to my dismay, the secondary is not to be forgotten!!