210 sway bar bushings - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sokoloff · #16 05-03-2007, 04:31 PM

I just ordered one on e-bay from a guy I have used a few times in the past -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Female-Torx-Set-Tools-VW-Audi-Mercedes-BMW-Repair_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43998QQihZ008QQitemZ180112579752

Didn't know what size I needed, so I ordered a kit. While I was under the car pondering how I would get those bolts out, I looked around and saw a whole bunch of them under there. I suppose that I'll be using this kit again one of these days.

Guess the car will have to stay on blocks until I get the kit next week.

sokoloff · #17 05-12-2007, 07:57 PM

Well, my sockets arrived, so I figured I'd get back on that job and finish it up in about an hour. Didn't get far. Got out three of the four bolts holding the sway bar bushings in place. The fourth one I had rounded off more than I thought when I tried to use a regular 8mm socket on it a week ago. I used the regular 8mm socket on one of the bolts and it loosened up easily. The next one I tried was a lot tougher and I figured I better stop and buy the right tool before I screwed something up and made my life more difficult. Turns out I didn't stop soon enough and I did make my life difficult. The bolt is rounded off to the point that the external torx socket won't work and there is little to grab onto with the bracket in place. Anyone else had to go through this? What are my best options? Heat? Drilling it out? The bolts are Locktited in place and are a little tough to turn all the way out even though the torque is only supposed to be 20nm. new bolts are on the way, so destroying this one won't bother me. I just want to get it out.

TMAllison · #18 05-12-2007, 11:37 PM

Len - Since your 8mm reg socket didnt work, can you waste a 7mm and pound it onto the torx head and get it out?

If that wont work and if you can weld. you should be able to weld a nut to the torx head and then use a reg socket on it.

sokoloff · #19 05-13-2007, 08:21 AM

Don't weld, but I like that idea. I'll have to work on the sides of the head some with a file or a Dremel to get another socket to fit. That will likely be my project today or tomorrow. Even though I've got a torch and others use it extensively, I'm just not comfortable using it.

scott19_68 · #20 05-13-2007, 08:46 AM

Have you considered trying those Craftsman 'bolt-outs'?

sokoloff · #21 05-30-2007, 07:47 PM

Finally got around to finishing the front sway bar links and bushings. Another delay because of a fuel leak I discovered when I crawled under the car to start the sway bar job. Finished up with the leak yesterday and got to the links and bushings today. Decided to just take the car to my local NAPA and let them remove the rounded off bolt. They had a tough time getting it out. It was well worth it to me to let them do it. Heat is what finally did the trick.

Some comments for those who will follow. Make sure you've got the right external torx socket to remove the bushing bracket bolts. It is interesting to note that the replacement bolts are now regular hex head bolts. Apparently I wasn't the only one who had a problem with the torx heads.

The new bushings went on reasonably easily without any kind of lubricant. That kind of surprised me.

I had to remove the right wheel to loosen the right side link bolt. I had to remove the left wheel to properly torque the left side link bolt. The new bolts come with Loctite already applied and cost about a buck and a half each.

Had to fight a little with one of the brackets to get the holes lined up.

I only jacked up one side as suggested above. On the side that wasn't jacked up, I was able to get the new link bolt threaded with a little effort and a little prying on the sway bar. On the side that was jacked up, I had to jack up the control arm to get the bolt hole to line up properly.

Would have been a whole lot easier if I hadn't rounded off that bolt head and if I didn't have a fuel leak to address in the middle of the job. I guess it's a good thing I discovered the leak though.

nhdoc · #22 05-30-2007, 10:10 PM

Now, hopefully, you can enjoy rattle free driving! Congrats Len!

sokoloff · #23 05-31-2007, 07:27 AM

Thanks Marty - hope I'm good until 200,000 miles now, but at the rate I do repairs I probably ought to start today so that I'm done by the time I hit 200K.

veggiediesel · #24 08-03-2008, 03:28 PM

I just finished replacing my front sway bar linkages and bushings. From pulling it into the garage to the test drive, it took about 3 hours at a leisurely pace. I didn't have a pickle fork to remove the linkage from the bar, so I pulled the whole thing out, stood on the linkage, and pulled up on the bar while wiggling it at the joint. It popped out with a little bit of effort. The bends in the sway bar give it plenty of places to grab onto.

The new linkages went on well using the procedure described by pjc in his 4/22/07 post.

The new bar-to-frame bushings slid on easily with a little soapy water.

My sway bar brackets were held on by hex bolts, not the inverse Torx others have described. Perhaps the previous owner's mechanic had replaced them, or MB changed their design. (Build date on my car is 1/98)

One strong recommendation: Label the bar and the old linkage well (with right/left and a forward pointing arrow) this will help avoid some confusion when re-assembling.

Paul