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#1
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L/R motor mounts??
I'm doing a conversion on my 1967 SIIa Land Rover using an OM616 motor. I'm debating on using the stock mercedes motor mounts. So I know how big to design my chassis mounts for the motor mounts, how different are the left and right motor mounts. I'd like a symmetrical set-up where both rubber mounts are easy to access with the two small bolts that bolt the mount to the chassis easy to get to. When I removed the engine from the wrecked car, the motor mounts were toast, so it was difficult to see their proper orientation. Is it true that the drivers side mount rotated differently than the pass side? Is there any reason why I can't mount the two mounts facing in the same direction with the two small securing bolts running parallel to the chassis rails?
THANKS for any advice! |
#2
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anyone?!
Thanks! |
#3
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I have experience with 116 and 117 motors, and those are physically identical, but are apparently made with different durometer rubber. Can't say if this will be true in your case.
__________________
86 560SL With homebrew first gear start! 85 380SL Daily Driver Project http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm |
#4
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Please understand that a majority of these posters are not that mechanically inclined. Let alone anyone doing an engine swap. To address your question, having done many engine swaps and motor mount fabrications over the years, look at another MB and come as close to that set up as possible. Dont try to re engineer the set up. Engine mounts on an engine are very critical to cancelling out vibration as you know. Go with what they engineered. I guess I've now set myself up for somebodys rant! Oh well!
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81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE. |
#5
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The rubber mounts are symmetrical, the mount arms are not, as you can see. Both rubber mounts are oriented symmetrically with the small bolts forming a 25 or so degree angle with the cross member (bolt closest to the center of the car towards the rear of the car. The small bolts are usually accessible with a L shaped Allen wrench.
Let me know if you want a hand. I've got a portable wire feed welder too. ![]()
__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#6
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Thanks Brian,
Its those damn thin metal cover plates over the mount that I'm worried will get in the way and make it hard to reach the small mounting bolts (as that's exactly what they did when we were removing the motor, if you remember - it was real difficult to get an allen wrench on those suckers!). What are they (the metal plates) for, anyway?! |
#7
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To stop oil and fuel drips from degrading the rubber mounts. I did not replace them when I did my engine swap.
__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#8
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IMO, the way the mounts attach to the body and to the aluminum mount arms could be much improved. If I were doing an engine swap (and I have done a couple on other cars), I would fabricate something that could use a bushing-style mounts with studs on either side. As it is, the bolts to the frame are inaccessible (as you have already mentioned) and the single-bolt mounting up into the aluminum mount arm is iffy (as I discovered when I saw how difficult it is to align and fasten mounts that are stripped internally -- aaargh!).
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#9
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That's what my Rover used originally - a very simple rubber mount that had equal length studs centered on each side... simply bolt passed through corresponding holes on chassis side and motor side. Using the mercedes aluminum motor perches/"arms" that are currently threaded for the 8mm bolt, any good recommendations on how to pass the stud from a rover-style mount through and use it with the existing merc motor arms?
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#10
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Quote:
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1983 123.133 California - GreaseCar Veg System ![]() |
#11
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Yeah, I might explore that option. Someone that's already done a similar conversion made his own arms as you mentioned... I was just hoping on keeping the original arms. They would be easy to fab up.
Thanks for the suggestion. |
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