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#1
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126 window regulator question....
My 1982 300SD (new to me) has a broken plastic slide piece on the rear driver's side window. The window regulator operates as designed, but the broken piece is the physical connection between the regulator and the glass. It's made to slide in a track attached to the glass and also rotate 360*. I need the piece that goes in the regulator AND the piece in the track on the window.
Question? Can I buy these somewhere new, or should I go a salvage route? I prefer new, since plastic deteriorates over time and salvaged parts will likely fail. phil |
#2
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There is only one piece required. It goes in the regulator. The piece comes with a rivet attached and it's a bit of a PITA to get this rivet properly peened over in the regulator arm.
To do it, without damaging the plastic piece, requires you to take the plastic piece apart so that the back side of the rivet is sitting on an anvil when you hammer the top of the rivet. When finished, you put the plastic piece back together. You can purchase the plastic piece right on this site: http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1XL0VHEI01Z50KHKMR&year=1984&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=O&part=Window+Regulator+Roller |
#3
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I walked into my local dealer and walked out with one for $10.00.
Or when you peen the rivet, make sure you have a raised die on the underside. A socket will work. An extra set of hands really helps. The factory flattened rivet head recesses into the plastic of the slider. Laying the slider on the anvil and peening the rivet definately causes the plastic to break....DAMHIK I have the worlds only $20 dollar slider in my right rear window.
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Later.........Gregg (86) 300 SDL (00) GMC Yukon XL 4X4 (97) C5 Corvette (02) BMW R1150GS Adventure (00) KAW Nomad 1500 FI |
#4
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........no you don't......
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#5
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Thanks for taking the time to reply on Christmas....... I'll be ordering the part ASAP, but the process for putting it in is a little hazy. Obviously it's a PITA, and I might need to order 2 of them......
Do I have to pull the whole track off the glass and work this on a bench. What would be a suitable substitute for an anvil - I have a pretty heavy bench vise, but no anvil. The new piece is already riveted, right? The picture seemed to be....... I guess I need to get the pieces in hand and then get to work on it, with the knowledge that it's not as simple as it looks (new part in slider track = miller time). Again, thanks for your help.... Merry Christmas. |
#6
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Quote:
An "anvil" is any heavy piece of steel/brick that can be used as a backstop. The new piece has the rivet "trapped" in the plastic. On the opposite side from the part that you will peen is the head of the rivet. It's nearly impossible to get this head to sit on an "anvil" because it's recessed below the surface of the plastic. If you take the plastic piece apart, the rivet head is now exposed and you won't mash the plastic piece. With the rivet head exposed, just put it onto a solid surface, insert the end into the regulator, and peen the rivet so that it's trapped in the regulator. I make it sound easier than it is because the regulator is awkward and doesn't want to sit flat on top of the rivet. You'll need to experiment for what will work for you. After it's peened properly, then reassemble the plastic piece and put the regulator back in the vehicle. The glass must be lowered to the precise point where the plastic piece will slide in the channel. You might want to grease the channel at this point as well. |
#7
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Had to recently replace that plastic piece on my driver's side rear door for the second time recently.
After remember how much a pain it was last time to get that rivet head flattened enough to stay in, I tried something different this time...and it seemed to work perfectly. I took the rivet and put it in the vise. Drilled a small hole in the very end that would normally need to be flattened...the hole was just big enough to get a spring type cotter pin inserted into. Get the idea? If it ever breaks again, I just pull the pin, insert the new plastic piece, re-insert cotter pin...all while the regulator and everything is still in the door.
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Chris 1985 300SD - 'Grace' (198K mi.) 2018 Honda Civic Sport 2018 Honda CRV LX 2010 Honda Fit Sport (RIP) 2013 Honda Accord Sport (Sold) 1996 Lexus LS400 (Retired) 1995 Ford Contour SE (Retired) 1976 Porsche 914 (Sold) 1972 Datsun 240Z (RIP) |
#8
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Hopefully some of y'all with experience on this job are still watching......
I ordered and received the parts from this site, then the "joy" of the holiday's overcame my schedule and I just tonight got to the point of trying to actually finish the job....... I already had the door panel removed, and went straight to the 3 connections (2 bolts and one nut on a stud) that hold the regulator inside the door. The regulator is free to move around, but I can't seem to get it to come out of the door itself. I'm assuming it would come out the large opening in the bottom, but it keeps ketting jammed on (I think) the window track. It was dark, cold and strarting to rain, so I gave it up in hopes someone out here could give me the magic combination for getting the regulator completely out of the door......... I'm afraid if I'd have kept trying tonight, I WOULD HAVE gotten it out.................... With my big a$$ hammer. Thanks Phil |
#9
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Have a CD-ROM on procedure for a 126, will view, and get back to you. But, I think once bolts removed, finagle till out.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#10
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The bottom of the window's rear vertical track has a stud and is held to the inner door panel with a nut. Make sure the window is wedged or otherwise held in the full up position. Then you can remove the nut from the track and move the track around to get the clearance needed to work the regulator assembly out through the large hole. When you put the nut back, the hole is slotted. Try to tighten the nut in the same position from which it was loosened.
When all is back together but before you hang the interior trim, test the window to make sure it doesn't bind. If it does you can try adjusting the bottom of the vertical track.
__________________
Later.........Gregg (86) 300 SDL (00) GMC Yukon XL 4X4 (97) C5 Corvette (02) BMW R1150GS Adventure (00) KAW Nomad 1500 FI |
#11
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Quote:
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
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