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  #1  
Old 06-29-2014, 01:19 PM
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Turn signal lamps do not work - how to repair?

OK, took the car to an indy to install a new speedo cable. Speedo now works fine but the instrument panel turn signal blinker lights do not work. All exterior lights work; brake lights, turn signals, head lamps and fog lamps. I just changed out ALL fuses to the new copper design. What are the proper test procedures to determine why the inside turn signal blinkers do not work? I am thinking of starting with a check of the light bulbs themselves, then move to the actual electrical connection from the car to the instrument panel.

Isn't it the far left connector on the back of the instrument panel with multiple wires/prongs and the plastic "half moon" so that the connector is connected properly? If so, which wire do I test for a power on condition? I'm assuming I can use a multimeter.......


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  #2  
Old 06-29-2014, 06:28 PM
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Check the hazard switch.
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  #3  
Old 06-29-2014, 06:54 PM
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The hazard/emergency flasher switch/lamps work fine, why would they affect the operation of the interior turn signal lamps?
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:02 PM
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Which car are we referring to? The 123 or 126?

The 123 cluster pins are
14 - left
13 - right
15 - ground

I don't have a diagram handy for the 126 2nd gen but it might be similar to a 124. The 124 cluster pin assignments are
14- left
15- right
1- ground
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  #5  
Old 06-29-2014, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Which car are we referring to? The 123 or 126?

The 123 cluster pins are
14 - left
13 - right
15 - ground

I don't have a diagram handy for the 126 2nd gen but it might be similar to a 124. The 124 cluster pin assignments are
14- left
15- right
1- ground
The 123, how do I tell which cluster pins are numbers 14, 13 and 15?
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:04 PM
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Numbers should be imprinted in the plastic of the connector head. Might need a magnifying glass.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #7  
Old 06-29-2014, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
Numbers should be imprinted in the plastic of the connector head. Might need a magnifying glass.
Got it, thank you. I'm assuming the ignition key should be turned to position two before initiating the test?
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  #8  
Old 06-29-2014, 09:10 PM
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Or just hit the 4-way flasher switch.

If you are doing any testing with the key in position 2, unplug the glow plug relay first.

I usually take the cover and lay it on the console so I remember to plug it back in when I am done.
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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #9  
Old 06-29-2014, 09:12 PM
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One more thing, that D-shaped key is very easy to break off.

If it does get broken off, you can still plug it in but you have to be very careful not to get it clocked wrong.

This happened on my 124, so I have a white paint mark on the connector and the circuit board to line it up. The numbers are on the PC board too so you can figure out where it should line up.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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  #10  
Old 06-30-2014, 02:44 AM
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Check the bulbs, move them back and forth till they light...with the lever position to the correct side or hazard switch pressed...
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  #11  
Old 06-30-2014, 05:49 PM
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one common fault which might cause this problem is a broken ground connection inside the cluster. the solution in that case is to add a supplementary ground wire. i think it has to touch all three sides separately, then go to the chassis.
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  #12  
Old 07-01-2014, 02:27 PM
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First, thank everyone for the replies, it gives me more insight into how to solve the problem. Second, in order to check whether the connector pins are energized or not, I'm assuming a multimeter is the correct tool to use? Or, would a test probe be the better choice?

Also, concerning the grounding situation, the instrument panel lights turn on when the head lamps are turned on. I'm assuming this would mean the ground in the instrument panel is OK?
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  #13  
Old 07-02-2014, 09:26 AM
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Bump, need help, please......
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  #14  
Old 07-02-2014, 09:44 AM
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A test light will do fine and is sometimes easier to get to the connector than a multimeter (that long, thin probe can be helpful), though the meter's OK, too.

Remember that the turn signal needs the resistance of the bulbs to work. Turning on the 4-ways sort of bypasses that need and will let you troubleshoot the dash bulbs easier.

In general, all weird electrical issues eventually lead to ground issues. Once you've eliminated dead bulbs, dirty sockets, broken wires, etc. go looking for grounds.

I'm giving generic advice learned from many years of working with American and Japanese cars and may or may not apply to M-B - Bosch electrics are a mystery to me.

Dan
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  #15  
Old 07-02-2014, 09:46 AM
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The vast majority of all complete turn signal failures are the emergency flasher switch. For some reason the circuit to the turn signals flows through the emergency flasher switch. The console switches tend to collect dirt and liquid spills causing the internals to fail to make contact. Many times you can switch the EFS back and forth several times and it will clean the contacts enough to get the turn signals working again. Before doing anything else concerning your turn signal problem, most of the board would advise you to remove the EFS, disassemble, clean all the contacts, then re-install.

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