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  #1  
Old 01-01-2007, 08:59 PM
sixto's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
disappointed with Baum 60x ring gear lock tool

I bought a Baum brand ring gear tool, the kind that slips in place of the starter to keep the crank from turning. It was immediately disappointing to see that the locking cogs were cut from an MB ring gear. No problem if it was a cheap tool but this one fetches three digits. The bigger problem was that it didn't fit. The bridge has two pins which are a very close fit in the starter bolt holes. The pins weren't quite parallel (or my block is out of spec ). Minor prying got the pins aligned. So I inserted the tool but it wouldn't engage the ring gear. Looks like the cogs were welded to the bridge about 2.5mm too close to the crank axis. Not wanting to wait out a warranty claim I punched out a pin and put an 8mm hex key in its place. The smaller effective diameter of the hex key set the cogs back enough to where they engaged the ring gear. Worked like a charm.

To those who've replaced the front crank seal with the engine in the car, how did you keep the crank from turning if you didn't use this tool?

Sixto
93 300SD

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  #2  
Old 01-02-2007, 11:00 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: CA... No. of S.F.
Posts: 890
Ditto your experience with Baum tools...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I bought a Baum brand ring gear tool, the kind that slips in place of the starter to keep the crank from turning. It was immediately disappointing to see that the locking cogs were cut from an MB ring gear. No problem if it was a cheap tool but this one fetches three digits. The bigger problem was that it didn't fit. The bridge has two pins which are a very close fit in the starter bolt holes. The pins weren't quite parallel (or my block is out of spec ). Minor prying got the pins aligned. So I inserted the tool but it wouldn't engage the ring gear. Looks like the cogs were welded to the bridge about 2.5mm too close to the crank axis. Not wanting to wait out a warranty claim I punched out a pin and put an 8mm hex key in its place. The smaller effective diameter of the hex key set the cogs back enough to where they engaged the ring gear. Worked like a charm.
To those who've replaced the front crank seal with the engine in the car, how did you keep the crank from turning if you didn't use this tool?
Sixto - 93 300SD
... although my experience was with a Baum tool designed to lock the earlier model 616/617 powered MBZ IP shafts! It just didn't fit and do as advertised. I was hopefull when I was able to raise someone at "Baum" [via E-mail... someone with the "Baum" last name] and thought I was on track to receive at least an answer/solution... but then NOTHING more from them after repeated follow-up. This is over a 6 month time frame!
From now on they have to prove their products to me and IF I ever purchase one again, it will have to be with a clear right of return policy IF it does not perform satisfactorily!!!
Regards,

Last edited by Samuel M. Ross; 01-02-2007 at 11:13 PM. Reason: minor things...
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Old 01-03-2007, 12:40 AM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
Not familiar with said tool. Have not done procedure, have seen video, leave belts on to remove pulley, (six 6mm allen bolts, may need to bang in) mark position with white out or equivilent. Remove belts, wedge large crow bar, you'll see a spot, to keep engine from rotating when using 3/4 drive 27mm or 1 1/16 inch socket with breaker pipe, mark position, to reinstall correctly. Will need puller tool. Said video is more involved than above. I'm paraphrasing. Hope this helps.

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