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#1
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How to remove Injector Pump on 300SD?
How do I get the IP out? I can't find anything in my CD shop manual or on the forum. It seems there is some kind of bracket on the backside. I've everything disconnected but that. Does the oil filter housing have to come out? I hope not because the in and out ports on the oil filter housing seem to be froze up. What size nut is on that bracket and is it simply a matter of super-wrench acrobatics?
Many thanks to all that contribute to this forum, it's been a priceless resource. 1987 300SDL |
#2
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I just regasketed that side of my engine. The oil filter stand has to come out. And for sure you need two short wrenches to get the hoses off.
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83' 300SD 302k "Frau Blue Car" 85' 190D 5-speed 150k |
#3
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Oh, and the bracket on the bottom can be left attached to the IP and disconnected from the motor. A 13mm u-joint socket from underneath should do it.
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83' 300SD 302k "Frau Blue Car" 85' 190D 5-speed 150k |
#4
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Haven't pulled mine yet, but will.
In any case FSM document should be Engine/602_603/07.1-200.pdf
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1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD 1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project) 2007 Pinarello F3:13 1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff) 1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD) |
#5
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What year SD?
Sixto 93 300SD 3.0 |
#6
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Probably 87...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=165383
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-justin 1987 300TD, 1987 300TD 2008 R32, 2000 Passat Wagon |
#7
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Could it be the 83 being parted out?
Sixto 93 300SD 3.0 |
#8
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Quote:
You can remove the IP without removing the oil filter housing. It's a very tight fit, but, it's definitely possible. The trick is to remove the lower bolt that secures the IP to the bracket. The problem is finding this bolt. You can't see it from below and it must be removed from the top. So, first........remove the rack damper screw on the back of the IP. It's going to prevent you from getting any swing in the box wrench. Then, lay down on the top of the engine and peer down between the IP and the oil filter housing with a strong light. About 8" down you'll just barely see the top of the head of the bolt. You job, should you decide to accept it, is to snag that bolt head with an offset box wrench and loosen it.........1/6 of a turn at a time. It will take awhile, but, once it lets go, you can remove the pump. Naturally, you'll remove the three cap screws that hold the IP to the block on the forward side. Don't ever expect to re-install the IP and put this bolt back in place. That's impossible without removing the oil filter housing. |
#9
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Quote:
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83' 300SD 302k "Frau Blue Car" 85' 190D 5-speed 150k |
#10
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Many many thanks.
Sorry for the year-model confusion. It is the 83 300SD that I'm parting out and junking. I got the WVO bug and hastily bought this thing a year ago. I did get 10,000 veggie miles out of it but the compression wasn't the strongest when I started and with hardly any of the extras working and way too much rust I decided she's ready for the grave yard. It seemed the IP was the most valueable thing under the hood. Thanks for the detailed how-to Brian, I'm going to try that this afternoon.
Btw would be a good low price for a used for an IP. www.adsitco.com has them for 315.00 used and 625.00 rebuilt. How do those add up to your sources? I like to give folks good deals... with tons of gratitude - Jim Campsey 1987 300SDL |
#11
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Success!
Yeah! Your procedure worked perfectly Brian. One thing I discovered to quicken it up is that once you break that rear bracket loose and have the other bracket bolts and the three nuts on the front off, then you can pull up on the pump with your left hand there by relieving the pressure on the bolt and reach your right hand through the two hose couplings to the oil filter housing. If you can get your finger on the bolt than you can save yourself the last 50 or so 1/16 turns with the wrench.
Jim Campsey 1987 300SDL 1983 300SD (on the way to the graveyard) |
#12
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Good job.
It's a PITA, but, consider the fact that you do not have to reinstall it. |
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