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  #1  
Old 01-26-2007, 07:19 PM
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Helper springs for the rear

Hi all,
Well, I've got the vegoil fuel system totally done now. With 35 gallons of WVO in the trunk, it doesn't sit all that awfully low, but it is noticeable. Someone with I believe a 124 mentioned putting in some helper springs of some sort, like a bolt in option, that gave them extra load carrying capacity. Anything like this for a 123? I know nothing about these cars, so forgive me, but could I just shim it up an inch or two or something?

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  #2  
Old 01-26-2007, 08:58 PM
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nahh, just cut out a few coils from the front springs and sit low in front too.
John
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2007, 09:07 PM
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Get a wagon with SLS

Coil spring specialties can make you a custom spring for your problem.
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2007, 09:10 PM
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Short of getting new springs, investigate the installation of the thickest spring pads available for the vehicle. They'll give you another 1" or so..........depending on the pad you currently have.

The other option is longer springs.

Anything else is probably not desirable for the long haul.
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  #5  
Old 01-27-2007, 07:52 AM
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custom springs 123 car

Coil Spring Specialties 632 W. Bertrand, St Marys, KS 66536 in 1994. 913-437-2025. My custom '62 Fairlane Springs (302V8, C4 instead of 221 2spd auto) were $150.
I carry 3 boxes of tools to my country property for working on the tractor-mower-trees-vines and have my 240D maxed out without an extra tank. I've been thinking of putting on one of those caged air bag arrangements like they sell for street rods and lowered pickups, I can't find the brochure but they advertise in street rod magazines. They show up at the street rod nationals in Louisville in August. Stiffer coil springs makes the ride harsh if your tanks are empty. The classic solution is overload (leaf) springs, but the jointed rear axle and unibody design of the 123 negates that as a possibility. If I put air bags on, I would drill the trailing arm which is pretty strong for the lower bag stud, but I would have to weld support plates to the car body floor, because that place is not strong enough to support loads. I might have to weld an angle bar or box beam all the way across to transfer the weight to the "frame" boxes along the edge of the car.
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  #6  
Old 01-27-2007, 08:33 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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air bags will make it ride hard even when empty. at least that is what my dad found with his volvo that he pulled a trailer with.

i probably would do as brian suggested. a spacer. anything else will probably negatively affect your mercedes ride. if you feel strongly about riding level, i would get a set of lowering springs for the front or again, just go for the thinnist spring pads and live with a bit of tilt.

although the car sitting low on one end looks funny, it really won't affect your handling in any significant way.

i have bought several old cars that had some kindof helper springs. i always took them out and pitched them. the stock suspension always works best, in my experience.

tom w
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2007, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
air bags will make it ride hard even when empty. at least that is what my dad found with his volvo that he pulled a trailer with.
That would be true if you didn't adjust the bag pressure to suit the situation, which is one of the main reasons to use air bags -- adjustability. I've had them on an RV and friends have had them on trucks and station wagons and have not seen any increase in harshness when unloaded and the bags are at the minimum required pressure (3-5psi, to prevent pinching).

As for putting in springs that are much stiffer, note that you'll get an increased tendency to oversteer due to the increase in rear roll stiffness (as well as due to being heavier in the tail).
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  #8  
Old 01-27-2007, 10:11 AM
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I would look into air adjustable shocks for your wagon. I hepled a friend that had the same problem you do and he was pleased with the results. Air Adjustable shocks will help to counter the effects of oversteer too.
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2007, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn D. View Post
That would be true if you didn't adjust the bag pressure to suit the situation, which is one of the main reasons to use air bags -- adjustability. I've had them on an RV and friends have had them on trucks and station wagons and have not seen any increase in harshness when unloaded and the bags are at the minimum required pressure (3-5psi, to prevent pinching).

As for putting in springs that are much stiffer, note that you'll get an increased tendency to oversteer due to the increase in rear roll stiffness (as well as due to being heavier in the tail).
dad found that the air bag in the spring even if not inflated increased the spring rate enough to make it ride very rough. i don't know if the same would be true for a benz but this experience was enough for me to strike it off the list of solutions that i would try.

as for stiffer springs increasing oversteer, i doubt that this would be enough to cause any significant problem. but THAT i have no experience to validate, just mho

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2007, 11:19 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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good luck finding air shocks for a benz.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #11  
Old 01-27-2007, 12:12 PM
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Air helper springs in the coils should work, although be prepared for the "gronk" sound that often accompany the two together.

It would be interesting to see if an air replacement were available for the coils, I would love to have an air-ride 'Benz. I hate to make the comparison, but my '01 Town Car with air suspension in the rear rode pretty nice and great self-leveling can be had with a simple limit-switch on the rear suspension as the Town Car / Grand Marquis (and others) have.

Air suspension kits are big in aftermarket, the big push is for replacing hydraulics in low-riders et al.

Put together a kit and you might find buyers. You could also offer a replacement for the expensive SLS (which is really a great system when working properly) on the TD/TE cars.

- Jeff
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  #12  
Old 01-27-2007, 12:34 PM
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tw

i can get you about 1.25 in which should correct your ride height and rear wheel alignment,would take about 4 hours and less than 50.00 in parts,so for about 300.00 we could raise her. if you are going to keep it you would have a payback in reference to the savings on the rear tire wear.
larry perkins,lou ky 15027276903=cell
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  #13  
Old 01-27-2007, 02:23 PM
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Thumbs up

New springs and shims will really help make it sit up high.
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  #14  
Old 01-27-2007, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
New springs and shims will really help make it sit up high.
Since we're talking rear end sagginess, is there a some kind of standard diagnosis to determine if a 300d needs new springs in the rear. My car sags a little. Handles fine, though, it seems. Is it standard to replace springs after, say, 21 years? Or could it be shocks? If it's springs are they hard to DIY?
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  #15  
Old 01-27-2007, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRIESL View Post
Since we're talking rear end sagginess, is there a some kind of standard diagnosis to determine if a 300d needs new springs in the rear. My car sags a little. Handles fine, though, it seems. Is it standard to replace springs after, say, 21 years? Or could it be shocks? If it's springs are they hard to DIY?
It's always difficult to determine if the springs are the culprit without removing them and testing them on a machine.

Furthermore, it's also difficult to state with accuracy that the vehicle "sags a little". You need to remove everything from the trunk and take a look to see if it's level when you've got it on perfectly level ground. A full tank of fuel will affect the results.

Typically, most of us carry some things in the trunk and, with full fuel, they will never be quite level. Not much you can do about it unless you start out with the vehicle "too high" to begin with.

The least costly item that has the most effect is the differential mount. If it's original, it will give 3/4" of additional height.

The second least costly item is thicker spring spacers above the rear coils. If you are not at the maximum thickness, these can also give another 1/2" or so.........depending on where you start.

The final item is the springs.........costly for sure.

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