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#16
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Start soaking the fitting in the leveler now. The body of the leveler is aluminum and the fittings are steel. Add a little water and salt!
I suggest buying the lines from Benz, that way you don't need a special flaring tool. |
#17
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Quote:
Who knows maybe I just see how long my "temporary" fix works. I will soak the fittings, but hopefully I won't have to loosen them for the temporary fix. Just need to find clean metal tubing near the leveler, and under the car. I've got about 20' of left over brake line from my school bus work.
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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast. |
#18
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So I started to loosen the lowest nut on the leveler and it did loosen, but the line was rusted to the nut I think and so I didn't continue with that. The problem with this line is where it was secured to the body, it held enough moisture that the line rusted enough to weaken it. I spliced in about a 2 foot piece and the whole job took me about 1 hour. I didn't end up doing the other line, but I will. The coupling that I uses adapts from 6mm to 1/4" and is made by Swagelok. I don't work for them but they make excellent fittings. We use them at work and they are not like the ones you get at the local hardware store. The secret to their success is the 2 piece locking ferrule. The part number is B-6MO-6-4 and they were $5.20 for 2. They have them in SS for about $10 ea. You can find a local dealer here www.swagelok.com. For some reason I couldn't find the part using the search feature, but I new they had them as we used them at work.
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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast. |
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