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  #1  
Old 02-01-2007, 05:09 PM
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put it to the floor and start her...

had a vw diesel in the 80's and she would start everytime by waiting for gps, and putting the throttle to the floor.

this will be my first mb 83 300sd- the guy says it takes a bit to start ( forget his exact words). i spoke to a mb mech. and he says rings maybe bad ( mech also wants me to buy his 83 300sd). after researching some could be filters, gp etc.

how do you guys start yours? and how would you rule out rings?

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  #2  
Old 02-01-2007, 05:33 PM
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When it is warm, cold start: wait for glow plugs, don't touch throttle, start

When it is cold below 45^ is cold here in AZ, cold start: wait for glow plugs, turn key, slowly depress throttle until it starts and keep pedal slightly depressed until it starts.

'81 300TD 260K miles
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  #3  
Old 02-01-2007, 05:40 PM
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above is good, but when it is REALLY cold... below +20F turn key until the GP light comes on, wait 30 seconds, listen for click, press pedal about 1/4 down, then turn key until it starts... My 82 will start almost instantly, but I gotta hold the pedal for about 30 seconds before it will stay running at idle when it is real cold. I have not started the car below about 18F cause I run in NC, and it has yet to get that cold here since I got the car running.
if you have compression issues, and it won't start with this method, after the first 30 seconds, turn off the key, turn it back on, and wait another 30 seconds, Then try the 1/4 to full throttle starting...
John
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Old 02-01-2007, 06:55 PM
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Bad rings should give you nasty blow by. Start engine, remove oil filler cap & if it looks like a city bus ...
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Old 02-01-2007, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
above is good, but when it is REALLY cold... below +20F turn key until the GP light comes on, wait 30 seconds, listen for click, press pedal about 1/4 down, then turn key until it starts... My 82 will start almost instantly, but I gotta hold the pedal for about 30 seconds before it will stay running at idle when it is real cold.
Precisely.

And additionally:

When it's 0F. hold the engine at 1000 rpm for two minutes before even considering lifting your right foot.
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  #6  
Old 02-02-2007, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
above is good, but when it is REALLY cold... below +20F turn key until the GP light comes on, wait 30 seconds, listen for click, press pedal about 1/4 down, then turn key until it starts...
John
wouldn't that Click mean the relay just timed out, and the gloplugs are no longer on? i do this, but I then cycle the key, so the relay turns on again.

-6 outside, I wonder if she'll start today....( no block heater)
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:41 AM
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I don't have any blowby to speak of, so that would lead me to believe that the piston rings are ok, but the car is a bear to start if its cold. Even after 4 hours on the block heater, I have been unable to get it started. My thermostat is stuck open right now, and since its 19F, I'm not going to go out and mess with it. More time on the block heater does the job, and as long as I have moved the car a couple of times when I get off work at 9pm and the temps have really dropped I have no problems starting. Just wondering if I may have compression that is a little low, and that is causing my cold start problems?
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Old 02-02-2007, 11:00 AM
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Valve adjustment, which affects compression, will also have an effect on cold starting. Glow plug condition is the other main parameter. Also, I believe a fresh secondary fuel filter seems to help some.

When it is really cold, (subzero in Neb.) I just let the glow plugs go 2-3 complete cycles (till the relay clicks) and feather the throttle so as to not apply too much cold fuel when it starts to fire.

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