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  #1  
Old 02-02-2007, 02:22 PM
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Help!! 83 300d engine/tranny removal

wish to pull engine/tranny on 83 300d. how would i go about...
searched threads and couldn't find anything.
many thanks
cliff

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1985 300d~185k
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2001 Dodge Ram 1500 78k
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2007, 02:28 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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It's pretty much like pulling any other engine, but you are better served by pulling the engine and tranny as a single unit.
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #3  
Old 02-02-2007, 02:31 PM
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looking for instruction. i have removed the tranny before by itself.
cliff
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1983 300d~250k Sold
1985 300d~185k
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2001 Dodge Ram 1500 78k
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  #4  
Old 02-02-2007, 02:42 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Do you have a cheapo Haynes manual? That is a good place to start.

You will need a load balancer along with the engine hoist.

How are you wanting to pull it? All accesories attached or not?
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #5  
Old 02-02-2007, 02:49 PM
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The tranny is toast. selling car to junk man who is just going to crush it, so i am trying to pull as much stuff off before wife shoots me ive an 85 300d to keep on the road...

cliff
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1983 300d~250k Sold
1985 300d~185k
1999 Volvo V70 wagen 109k
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 78k
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  #6  
Old 02-02-2007, 02:57 PM
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Depending on what you want to save, If I had to do a quick pull, and all I cared about was the core engine, Id unbolt the engine mounts from below, with an 8mm allen, unbolt the engine shocks, unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the tranny cross member, take off trans wiring (with snips)
Sawzall the exhaust,

cut or unbolt all coolant and electrical connection, and the throttle.

Cut everything that is not worth saving. Save the glowplug relay, monovalve etc.

hoist with trans still attached, then throw trans in trunk.

Should take about 2 hours if your handy,
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1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard)
1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2

Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped)
1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D
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  #7  
Old 02-02-2007, 09:58 PM
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Since it is going to the junkyard, use a sawzall and cut that pesky piece of sheetmetal between the headlights (the one that has the VIN number & codes). This way you don't need a load leveler, nor do you have to lift the engine so far up.
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2007, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Delor View Post
Since it is going to the junkyard, use a sawzall and cut that pesky piece of sheetmetal between the headlights (the one that has the VIN number & codes). This way you don't need a load leveler, nor do you have to lift the engine so far up.
ahh, great tip for the parts car rusty beater.
John
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2007, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Delor View Post
Since it is going to the junkyard, use a sawzall and cut that pesky piece of sheetmetal between the headlights (the one that has the VIN number & codes). This way you don't need a load leveler, nor do you have to lift the engine so far up.


When I pulled the motor out of my parts 300D, That's what I did. It was a heck of a lot easier to pull that way. Made a world of difference.
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  #10  
Old 02-04-2007, 12:55 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfman View Post
When I pulled the motor out of my parts 300D, That's what I did. It was a heck of a lot easier to pull that way. Made a world of difference.
That's what I did.
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Help!! 83 300d engine/tranny removal-front-end.jpg  
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  #11  
Old 02-04-2007, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
That's what I did.

That motor doesnt look stock

How's it run ?
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2007, 01:42 PM
ForcedInduction
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Runs pretty darn good now that I have the injection timing set right.

The manifold in that picture is going back on next week.
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  #13  
Old 02-04-2007, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Runs pretty darn good now that I have the injection timing set right.

The manifold in that picture is going back on next week.
What happens when it's set wrong? (sorry I dont know much about tuning diesels)
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2000 E39 M5
2002 e46 330xit
1991 mustang notch (project)
1970 chevelle (project)
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  #14  
Old 02-04-2007, 02:10 PM
ForcedInduction
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My timing was set too retarded (Something like 22*BTDC). It was easy to start but it idled very rough, had alot of gray smoke when cold, high exhaust temperatures, and the idle speed had to be high for it to idle acceptably.

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