Ok, About the stuff thats wrong with the car.

Dash lights are probably the reohastat (sp), its underneeth the button to reset the trip meter, it can be fixed, might also want to put in new bulbs at the same time.

- I have no dash lights, maybe once in a while they work but not enough to count.


- my left turn signal flashes like there's a short in it, it's got a new bulb, maybe relay?
Does it flash super fast, it might have the wrong bulb, try swtiching the bulb from the left to right side, and see if the bad flashing follows the bulb.

- a slow steering fluid leak
try to find where the leak is comming from, if its just lines it could be easy to fix.

- repair shop says I need all new belts and hoses
Just have them changed, good peace of mind.

- certainly need a new paint job and windshield
Get it done if your gonna keep the car, or just live with it.

- also, I'm missing some of those lug things that cover the wheel bolts, where can I get those?
ebay, or you could take them all off.

- the hood vibrates now on the driver's
Check the wheel balance on the driver side, any wheel wobbles, steering shakes?

__________________
1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard)
1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2

Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped)
1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D

Still, the engine should not be burning oil at ALL past 3K miles if one is using at least a CF rated oil for ample soot suspension.

My 350SD began showing symptoms of burning a quart every 2500 miles.

i know the type of car pretty good mercy, where are u located, maybe i could help.
larry perkins lou ky

All the problems are pretty typical W126 issues and nothing to major. Except the oil buring, that is a sign the end is near for that engine. If it wasn't for that it would be worth fixing all that stuff if you are able to DIY. If you are not then its probably time to move on. These are old cars and they all have a to do list, you need to be able to fix them yourself a little bit at a time to make them worthwhile driving. Unless you are just looking for a cheap beater to drive into the ground, then just don't fix anything.

If you are just looking for a decent daily driver you can get late 90's E320's for $10k these days in good shape, its hard to justify not getting something newer without the habitual "to do" list.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Heck yeah! I even considered taking a diesel automotive class at the local tech school, but I've since moved and can't do the commute.

I thank you all for your input - I think I'll give the DIY route a chance and lean on all of the knowledge here. My next project is learning how the change the oil I guess

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'90 350SDL - 280k miles, not a brunette, Diamond Blue
My DIY milestones thus far - changed out pwr window switch, disconnected alarm system, changed oil and filter, took out headlights
My next DIY goal - find the vacuum pods

It's saving grace to me, is that a 350SDL is rare.

Well, you can have a nice paint job done if you have connections for sub $1k. 3.0L blocks I can get easily, I have seen complete long blocks for under $1500 with warranty.

HVAC stuff to me isn't a big deal, if you farm it out go ahead and be ready to grab the ankles. Most of the other junk you listed (turn signal, power steering, dash lamps, etc) is typical old car. You could have that crap knocked out in a weekend no sweat.

How's the suspension?

If the seats are not cracked or ripped, that's a BIG plus in my book.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

If the 603.970 in my 350SD goes, I know who to call!

__________________
Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
2002 Selmer Series III Soprano

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
www.RustyBlevins.com

Suspension seems fine to me, in my infinite wisdom regarding these cars. Interior/seats are fine too. Okay, so I'll try to do my own work on it until I reach my level of incompetence (I think I'm already there). So what kind of book do I need and where do I get it? I don't even know what the things in the engine compartment are called or where they are, i.e. where the vacuum stuff is for the a/c. I need the most basic guide there is. Or is there a web site with a schematic on it? Thanks!

__________________
'90 350SDL - 280k miles, not a brunette, Diamond Blue
My DIY milestones thus far - changed out pwr window switch, disconnected alarm system, changed oil and filter, took out headlights
My next DIY goal - find the vacuum pods

mabe she is even a brunette hit man

__________________
commercial fisherman diesel in my blood in my boats trucks and Dear old Dad has had me drivin them since i got my first license in 1968
1986 300 SDL 427654
1999 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 225423
1986 300 SDL 287000 Dad's
1987 190 Turbo 158000 Mom's (my inheritance)

As I was driving the other day, I had a thought about the cursed rod-bender 3.5L 603.970 that some of us have in our 350SD's, 350SDL's, and S300D's...

In a previous thread about these motors, BC mentioned that a likely cause of the bent rods in these motors is high cycle fatigue - that after a certain number of cycles (that number being different for each individual rod in each individual motor based upon its construction, use & maintenance, environment, etc. but seemingly a lower number than the time-tested 3.0L) the connecting rod gives way and bends due to the extra power being too much for it to bear. Here is the post from that thread:

Since the power that bends the rod comes from the BTU output of burning fuel, (i.e. #2 diesel) would it not make sense that burning a fuel with lower BTU output (i.e. WVO/SVO) could create less power and therefore contribute less to the potential bending of connecting rods in these motors?

Assuming (yes, I know what happens when we ASSUME) that the high cycle fatigue theory is accurate, and setting aside all other potential problems associated with WVO/SVO use, would it be possible to say that burning WVO/SVO in a 3.5L 603.970 might help extend the life of the rods and thus the motor itself?

Hey, call it wishful thinking if you like! I just like my car and I hope I can drive it for a long time. Therefore, I am trying to think of ways to help prolong its life, especially since it saves me a lot in fuel expenses.

Sorry - I now realize this probably belongs in a new thread.

__________________
Autos:
1991 350SD 276,000 miles
2001 VW Beetle TDI 115,000 miles

Horns:
1955 Selmer Mark VI Alto (55,xxx)
1958 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (85,xxx)
1964 Selmer Mark VI Tenor (125,xxx)
1967 King Super-20 Tenor (430,xxx)
2002 Selmer Series III Soprano

For Jazz Saxophone enthusiasts - check out my website...
www.RustyBlevins.com

yea could be the baffel bolts would stay put longer with the lower btu fuel
larry perkins

If you fill the engine with the prescribed quantity of oil and you go nearly 3000 miles before it needs oil (as indicated by the dash warning light) I think you have a wholesome, but slightly tired engine. Find out where the oil all over the engine is coming from too. A clean engine is much more torlerable to work on, and frequently easier to work on as well.

I would invest in a bit of spelunking to figure out if the engine is wholesome or not before I would go the route of fixing all the easy stuff around it. If you get into the car and spend $1k on it and then find out you need a new engine you will feel trapped and be a bit less than happy with the advice offered here. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Most of the people here are more than welcome to help, some don't mind lending a hand either! I have a copy of the Factory Service Book, but it's about 300 miles from me. I can try to copy it when I return if that will help.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]