Got my car back on the road yesterday for the first time in two months. I had been doing a lot of stuff to it, including a much needed banjo bolt cleaning, PS fluid and filter, transmission oil and filter, wheel refinishing, and a two tank WVO system. It was 11 degrees yesterday morning, plugged in the block heater for an hour (was at home) and trickle charged the battery at the same time for good measure. Car started first crank. Ran the 180 mile trip down to school, all is well. Parked it in the structure. Today it was 19, of course no block heater being at school. Double glow, crank slowly, then slower, and no start. I was pretty bummed about that. So I rode the bike to work (like I've been doing).

I have decent compression, I have not done a test but when I remove the oil filler cap when the car is fully warm, and set it on top of there, it doesn't move at all. I've cold started with no block heater below freezing before. Glowplugs are fine, as is the relay (checked using Dieselgiants page). My battery gives out almost 12 volts cold, I would consider replacing it except that I am a broke college student. Same with the starter: if I have to replace it I'm just going to bike and drive in warmer weather. One problem is that I have the regular 15W40 oil in it, I've only driven 4,000 miles since I got the car in August so I haven't quite gotten to the 3,000 mile mark yet. After some scouting out, I have discovered exactly three light poles with plugs in them, all in one little lot that always seems to be full. I don't think plugging in is an option.

Here is what I am thinking of doing. I'll get a nice little rubbermaid battery box, and bring it into the dorm room after I'm done driving for the day. Then put in the nice warm, happy battery for start up. My main concern for this is is it very dangerous for in the dorm? I know these things occasionally blow up, but there shouldn't be any spark near it if I have just the battery sitting in the box alone (no metal or anything). I'll also try to find a way to put some lighter oil in it, I have the tools, I'll just jerry rig a catch pan (and I've even got a funnel, so I can pour the old stuff back in the jugs from what I put in to take to the recycler). Do you think these two measures will help? Like I said, the car starts fine if it is just a little warmer, and I have very little money so if it needs a new battery, starter, and altenator to start right I'll just ride the bike and drive when its warm enough to start.

Thanks.

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1985 300D, 237k.
1994 F-350, 6.9 diesel, 5 spd manual, Banks Turbo. 261k.
Sold: 1985 300CD- 267K

How old is that battery? Cold is just as bad for them as is 100+ degree heat is.

Removing it to keep it warm is ok, and as long as you do not put it on a charger, the hydrogen gas usually is not formed. You will get a good work out removing and installing the battery every day, though. You will need to be careful installing and removing the battery, and the terminal can get damaged from the constant on/off of the leads.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Synthetic oil will make a big difference in cold temperature starting.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

mine didnt start early this winter at 5*F with rotella 15-40 in it. switched to M1 0-40, and re-adjusted the valves, and now she starts at -11*.
no block heater.
of course, 8 qts of that Mobil1 is almost as much as a battery.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

almost 12v isnt always enuf 11.5 is 50% discharged

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commercial fisherman diesel in my blood in my boats trucks and Dear old Dad has had me drivin them since i got my first license in 1968
1986 300 SDL 427654
1999 Chevy Crew Cab Dually 225423
1986 300 SDL 287000 Dad's
1987 190 Turbo 158000 Mom's (my inheritance)

this is probably stupid, but i thought battery's were 12V tops. or am i wrong?

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1983 Euro 240D 277K
2016 Mazda 6
Coming Soon, 2013 Mercedes E350 Bluetec
Formers:
2012- Mazda 3
2007 Outlander- complete pile
1995 E300 Diesel 208K
2007 VW Passat 2.0T 63K SOLD
2003 Jaguar X-type 3.0 Sport Sold 04/11 w/88K
2009 Lexus RX350 9061 miles. Sold 04/09
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS:Totaled Sept.,09 @ 24,000
2003 Infiniti I35 58K Sold
1984 300 turbo diesel 222K

Wrong, I think 13.5 is a good new battery, maybe even like 13.7.

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

I got the car in July, so don't have an idea how old it is. Sounds like an oil change is in order, and a new battery if the money kicks in sometime. Tomorrow it is supposed to be 40, so I'll get someone to give me a jump and should start right up, after that it'll be in the teens for a while so we'll see how it goes.

__________________
1985 300D, 237k.
1994 F-350, 6.9 diesel, 5 spd manual, Banks Turbo. 261k.
Sold: 1985 300CD- 267K

if you go to joe schmoe's auto house they can tell you the age of the battery by the stickers on it. something about the numbers and letters gives them the production month and year. they did this for me once and it turns out the battery was rather old.

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-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto

12.6v for a fully charged battery at room temp.

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1991 GMC Sonoma Ext Cab w/Isuzu diesel (converted March Mar 2003) - sold
1994 S10 Ext Cab w/Isuzu diesel (converted Mar 2008)
1998 Toyota Sienna XLE
B6100HST Kubota CUT DIESEL

1994 S10 with Isuzu diesel and 5spd
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...S15/SigPic.jpg

I wouldn't bother until you have a good battery.

You definitely want to see something over 12.45

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1976 BMW 2002- 100k
1995 BMW 325i 175k
1984 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo Diesel- 270,000 mi

1981 Mercedes Benz 240D- Estimated 300,000+ mi Returned to the earth

Yep....my battery usually shows 12.56 on my multimeter...and 12.5...ish...on my gauge in the car.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Hey, TWeatherford, are you going to EKU? What is your major? Have a relative going there, not a diesel or car person though.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

I'm an ag major at WKU, actually. I'll have the battery checked today. Thanks all.

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1985 300D, 237k.
1994 F-350, 6.9 diesel, 5 spd manual, Banks Turbo. 261k.
Sold: 1985 300CD- 267K

It sounds like you have a healthy engine, low blow by and good compression. The next biggest problem for an old Diesel is glow plugs. I presume yours are ok. After that it is the speed of the engine during starting. A cold block is like a huge heat sink. A slow starting speed means the heat of compression gets sucked into the block, and you have a set of conditions that won't sustain ignition of the fuel. There are three main culprits for a slow engine rpm during starting - a weak starter from too much extended cranking, a worn battery from too many deep cycles trying to start a cold engine, and oil that is too thick. Oil is easier and cheaper to deal with than either of the other two.

Someone has already suggested using Mobil 1 or another synthetic, which is an excellent suggestion. I use Delvac 1, a Mobil 1 product specifically formulated for Diesel engines. It comes only as 5W-40 in silver gallon jugs. I believe you can get it in quart bottles relabeled as Mobil 1 Diesel Truck and SUV oil, but I have personally never seen it. But any synthetic product for Diesels will do. Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)