|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Time for new shocks - any advice?
I'm needing new front shocks on my '87 300D. I'm not looking to spend a fortune, but want some fairly stiff shocks. What brands offer the best value? Also, is this a fairly straight-forward DIY job? I think I read something about supporting the lower control arm - any other pointers? Any special tools needed? I don't want to be impaled by my springs - can anyone offer a bit more specifics about doing this job safely?
Thanks!
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel) 1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel) 1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Thought 124s have struts up front and shocks in rear?
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
they do.
i recommned bilsteins unless you arent planning on keeping it. they last over 100k and offer the best performance. if planning track use perhaps koni red adjustable would be in order though. tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Bilstiens only unless you are planning on ditching soon.
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
I think it varies by model. When I asked at the parts store it seemed like it could have been either. I'm not sure how to tell the difference, but on my car the shock seems to be independent of the spring. Wouldn't this indicate shocks, rather than struts?
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300D ~200K (Greasecar & Biodiesel) 1993 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI diesel 165K (Biodiesel) 1996 Thomas/International Bus with DT466 engine |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
They don't appear to be conventional struts (insert concentric with spring) as found on Japanese, VW cars. The fronts are referred to as struts, the rears are conventional shocks. I don't think you'll need a traditional strut compressor to change these out but someone else can comment if it's needed.
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter) Baum spring compressor "for rent" |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
You have a W124. It has struts in the front.
You say you want a stiff shock. That either means that your existing shocks are worn and you think you need a stiffer shock, or you actually want a stiffer shock. I can only comment on Bilstein. You have two choices Comfort and HD. I changed to HD's on my '92 300E. Somewhat more firm, but still not even close to stiff. No special tools needed for installation. The method you refer to is basically get the front end up securely up on jack stands. Then you use another jack, I used one of those small cylinder type jacks from Harbor Freight, to move the control arm up and down. Jack the arm up somewhat. Take the nut off the top of the Strut. Lower the arm enough to get the threaded strut piston down and out of the strut mount. Then remove the lower mounting bolts and take the strut out. Installation is the reverse. Recommend replacing rubber strut mounts at the same time. Rears are shocks. You must remove the trunk liners at each side to access the upper mounting points. Finally get an alignment at the dealer. Steve |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Bilstein HD's if you want it a bit stiffer. You may be able to use the Sports but I think those are for dropped cars.
Only buy cheap shocks if you plan on dumping the car in a few months, KYB, Gabrial is all junk. But if you plan on selling the car and want it to stop bouncing or something slap a cheap set of KYB's on and let the next guy suffer!
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
Bookmarks |
|
|