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  #1  
Old 02-07-2007, 11:55 AM
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Newbie questions: fuel filter bolt and primer pump

Hi guys,

I've been a 240D owner and tinkerer for about 6 weeks now. I've read hundreds of posts and this forum is invaluable. I have 3 somewhat related questions at the moment.

1. I replaced the spin-on fuel filter recently and noticed that the bolt that it attaches to has a hole in the side of it. This is probably a really stupid question, but does it matter where that hole is? In other words, is it meant to line up with something or do you just crank the bolt tight and not worry about alignment?

2. I'm confused about the proper use of the primer pump, particularly what to loosen to let the air out. The previous owner told me to loosen the bolt that attaches to the spin-on fuel filter. But I have seen posts here that refer to other bolts called "bleed bolts". I have also seen posts that say you don't have to loosen anything, just pump. So what is the correct method and when do you know when you're done?

3. I have the old style primer pump, but just purchased the new style black one from Fastlane. To replace it, is it simply a matter of unscrewing the old one from the block and screwing in the new one? Anything else I should do/know? And how does the new one operate? It looks a lot different and there were no instructions with as to how to use it. Do you just pump it when needed and leave it? It doesn't seem to screw into a locked position like the old one.

Thanks for any help.

-Flop

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  #2  
Old 02-07-2007, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
2. I'm confused about the proper use of the primer pump, particularly what to loosen to let the air out. The previous owner told me to loosen the bolt that attaches to the spin-on fuel filter. But I have seen posts here that refer to other bolts called "bleed bolts". I have also seen posts that say you don't have to loosen anything, just pump. So what is the correct method and when do you know when you're done?

-Flop
You do need to loosen a bolt on top of the spin on fuel filter, but it's not the one that holds the filter on. There is another bolt that goes through a banjo bolt that has three fuel lines attached to it. Loosen that one, then pump the primer pump untill you get solid fuel out. Then tighten the bolt back down and you should be good to go.
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  #3  
Old 02-07-2007, 12:33 PM
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The new primer pump is a delight in comparison to the old one. You just push on it. Thats it. Now when changing out your old one I think it requires a short wrench. to access the hex shape at the bottom. Also I think the new one has a different size hex area. Not really sure of that as it has been awhile. Also if you do not wish to save your old primer pump just grab it with vice grips will usually do it. Other than making sure the new pump has a good base washer that is about it.
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  #4  
Old 02-07-2007, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
3. I have the old style primer pump, but just purchased the new style black one from Fastlane. To replace it, is it simply a matter of unscrewing the old one from the block and screwing in the new one? Anything else I should do/know?
A crow's foot makes the job a lot easier.
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  #5  
Old 02-07-2007, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
1. I replaced the spin-on fuel filter recently and noticed that the bolt that it attaches to has a hole in the side of it. This is probably a really stupid question, but does it matter where that hole is? In other words, is it meant to line up with something or do you just crank the bolt tight and not worry about alignment?
It does not matter where the hole is located. The area that the bolt goes into is rounded and this allows the fuel to flow to the line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
2. I'm confused about the proper use of the primer pump, particularly what to loosen to let the air out. The previous owner told me to loosen the bolt that attaches to the spin-on fuel filter. But I have seen posts here that refer to other bolts called "bleed bolts". I have also seen posts that say you don't have to loosen anything, just pump. So what is the correct method and when do you know when you're done?
When replacing the filter, fill it up prior to installing it. I use either ATF transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery oil. You could use Diesel Purge If you have it. Or just plain diesel.
Once you screw the filter into the receiving bolt Since it's already loose. Leave it just slightly loose and pump your primer. It does not matter which bolt on top is loose, your just trying to get the air out of the setup so the pump has some liquid to pump. When the "air" is out of the system ( it squirts fluid) then tighten the filter mount bolt, clean up the diesel fluid and start the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
3. I have the old style primer pump, but just purchased the new style black one from Fastlane. To replace it, is it simply a matter of unscrewing the old one from the block and screwing in the new one? Anything else I should do/know? And how does the new one operate? It looks a lot different and there were no instructions with as to how to use it. Do you just pump it when needed and leave it? It doesn't seem to screw into a locked position like the old one.
Don't know I have not done this yet.

Dave
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  #6  
Old 02-07-2007, 01:50 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I've heard this car is "self-priming", so does that mean that as long as it will start, it will bleed the air out itself? In other words, is the use of the primer pump necessary if the car can start without using it?

I remembered another question for you. I am planning to test my glow plugs and was trying to locate them at the block. I found them, but what are the other 2 bigger things that attach to the block around the same area? I followed the cable collection from the glow plug relay to the block and it looks like 6 wires are coming out. 4 go to the glow plugs and the other 2 go to the items in question.
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  #7  
Old 02-07-2007, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
Thanks for the responses. I've heard this car is "self-priming", so does that mean that as long as it will start, it will bleed the air out itself? In other words, is the use of the primer pump necessary if the car can start without using it?

I remembered another question for you. I am planning to test my glow plugs and was trying to locate them at the block. I found them, but what are the other 2 bigger things that attach to the block around the same area? I followed the cable collection from the glow plug relay to the block and it looks like 6 wires are coming out. 4 go to the glow plugs and the other 2 go to the items in question.
The 616 and 617 fuel systems are not self priming. If they were, there would not be a priming pump. Newer models are "self priming" by have to crank the engine for a while. A manual primer is a better choice, IMHO. I had a Yanmar diesel tractor that had bleed points that used bleeder bolts like a brake system uses.

The other connections, one is a temp sender, and I have no idea what the other can be with out pictures or detailed descriptions.
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  #8  
Old 02-07-2007, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flop View Post
I am planning to test my glow plugs and was trying to locate them at the block.
You won't find them there. The glow plugs are in the head.
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  #9  
Old 02-07-2007, 03:20 PM
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There is no need to loosen any of the bolts when using the primer pump. The banjo bolt that has all of the return lines connected to it has a small hole in it that allows air to escape back to the tank.

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