I'm going to change my valve stem seals this week end. Some post say it's not a difficult DIYS job. I've found in some instances that is not true, or just not true for me, although I seem to get through it all. Are there any particular things I should look out for. any easy tips. I found this kit. Any references on this company. http://www.**************.com/node/678 (5 Cylinder Non Turbo Diesel Valve Stem Replacement Kit) Thanks RAY M

Make absolutely, positively, 100% sure that the cylinder you are working with it at top dead center before you free the valve spring.

Do you mean by "top dead center" the less rounded or more pointed part of the camshaft is facing straight up. Like when I'm doing a valve adjustment. I'd read about TDC but for got to ask what that meant exactly. If I'm correct I need to do one at a time and turn the engine in the same fashion as a valve adjustment leaving the cam portion for the next cylinder pointing up prior to doing the next seal. Start from the front and move to the back? Please let me know if I understand correctly. OH yes thanks for the motor mount help yesterday. It all went well after that. RAY M

TDC as in the piston is at the top of it's stroke.

On removing and reinstalling the rocker towers,make sure the rockers are not under strain by the camshaft lobes-you need to do the pairs one by one.Also it`s possible one of the pairs be really hard to pull(upwards).There is 1 small centering cylinder under each rocker tower-be careful not to let`em go past the chain into the sump...on istallation observe the correct orientation of the valve springs(it`s advisable to change`em)...
Torque the bolts to 38Nm....then valve adjustment...

************** has several good how-to's with some of their parts kits. They are well worth the money if you don't feel comfortable with the first time.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Just be careful when you put them on because you can tear them, like I did with my first set. They're not going to go on there very easily so lube them with some clean motor oil first. Make sure you match the stem seals to the right stem; intake and exhaust are different sizes but they're color coded. Just make sure to double check before you go to the effort of pushing them on. I can't comment on doing the job with the head on the engine because I had the luxury of doing it with the head off and on a stand.

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Seth

1984 300D 225K
1985 300D Donor body
1985 300D Turbo 165K. Totaled. Donor Engine. It runs!!!
1980 300SD 311K My New Baby.
1979 BMW 633csi 62K+++? Dead odo

First, stuff the cavity below the cam sprocket full of rags inbetween rotating the engine and working on the stems.

When removing the caps, hold the valve stem with a pair of needle noses. Remove the nut at the stem, take off the retaining cap, then screw the nut back on. As long as that nut is on the top of the stem, you can drop the valve and it doesn't matter if you are TDC, although TDC is your goal. That just gives you a little safety net in case you miss it. I got my kit from Bergsma at ************** and they are excellent to deal with. The kit comes with good instructions and pictures, too. Good luck!

Isn't there a danger of the cam chain pulling those rags down in to the abyss if you do that while rotating the engine?

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

I said "inbetween" meaning stuff the rags in there inbetween rotating the engine. I guess I should have said stuff the rags in there while working on the stems and take them out while rotating engine. Sorry for the confusion.

To my question above I got a "TDC as in the piston is at the top of it's stroke." and many more helpfull tips.
New question put another way.**How do I know or determine when the piston is TDC**. Does anyone know if the ************** DIYS instructions are clear enough on this point. Thanks RAY M

on # 1 it is simple, rotate engine until the timing marks say 0, now if you pay attention to the way the cam rotates, and you know the firing order, when you are done with # 1 just rotate the motor until the next cylinder in order has the cam in the same position for that cylinder.
and so on...
John

EDIT*
oh, I suppose it is important to make sure #1 is both lobes up, so it's on the compression stroke, and you have a simpler time removing the springs.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The kit from **************.com has illustrated directions to help with this as well. it's not that hard to estimate 72 degrees on the rotation, too. But they'll give you the firing order, so as you're rotating the engine, observe the cam. When the lobes are positioned so that the valves are closed on the next hole, then you know you've got it. But, like I said, use the needle noses and hold the stem while you take off the nut and the cap, and put the nut back on. When you let the valve go, you'll know where you are in the stroke. Good luck.

Thanks VSTECH and GRIESL that told me volumes. I do appreciate everyones help. RAY M