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Climate control
I've searched previous threads before posting, so here's my question. My heater works fine most of the time, however at random times it won't come on at all (blower). I saw in one of the other posts that it could be the ignition switch? Reading other climate control issues (circuit board repair and vacuum problems, I'm inclined to check out the switch first since when the system works, it works fine. This seems to be a very intermittent problem even though I'v only had the car for about a month now. Any ideas, suggestions? Thanks in advance. Oh yea, it's a 1982 300D Turbo.
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'83 240D (for sale) '84 Harley FXRT '85 300CD Turbo (Sold) '85 500SEC (for sale) '04 Dodge Dakota Quad '06 Harley FLHTCI '97 SL320 |
#2
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On the thermostat housing is a temp sensor and the wire is usually routed in front of the valve cover. Check for a good connection there as this sensor is what keeps the fan from blowing until the coolant comes up to temp.(keeps the ACC system from blowing cold air)
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#3
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There is a known problem with the electrical brushes in the blower motor. I haven't replaced any yet so can't tell you where to get them. I have looked at a motor and they are easy to get to. I have been told you can get them at a hardware store but I have never looked for them there. You can check your brushes without taking them out if the motor will start after you tap the housing. Otherwise it requires removal to check them (they will be very short if bad) and you might as well replace them because you just didd the worst part of the problem.
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1977 300D Lost coolant while someone else was driving 1983 300D Can't run without oil 1985 300SD (gone but not forgotten) 1990 300TE 4matic Sold 1991 Yamaha Venture 1975 Kawsaki 250 triple 1974 Honda 200CL 1951 8N Ford 2008 Wildfire 650C |
#4
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If it's intermitten I would put my money on an electrical problem. It could be the circuit board for the climate control unit. If you pull the CCU and take it apart so you can see the circuit board look for a burned solder joint. That could be your problem.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#5
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Some posters have reported success in getting the fan to start by whacking the underside of the fan housing with a blunt object. Such a procedure (if it is successful) also confirms failing brushes.
Hardware store brushes have been successfully used by others. When I took my fan apart, I found that the commutator was so worn down that I had to replace the entire motor.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#6
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I have a '80 300TD and sometimes when the blower is intermittent I have narrowed it down by pressing the defrost button. In my car the buttons are vacumme except "DEF" and "BI-LEVEL" which are forced electrically and they also turn on the compressor regardless of the compressor switch position. Thus defrosting the inside windows. If I cannot get the normal fan positions to work "HI" or "LOW" then I hit "DEF" and the fan comes on, which would allow you to check to see if it is internal in the fan or not. Mine is NOT an '82 and I am sure that they did away with the vac style button. It is just a suggestion to try to narrow your search of ideas.
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1980 300TD, SOLD 1984 300TD, 275K 1999 C230 K Black & Tan 2013 C250 Black 1974 CJ5 Red You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper- |
#7
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Yes, that is a good test. If the brushes are starting to make poor contact, sometimes hitting the motor with full voltage (which is what the Defrost button does) will get the fan to start. Once the fan has started, you can shift to another setting and the fan will continue to run at a lower speed even though it would not start at the lower speed. However, that is a temporary fix only.
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#8
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Quote:
Thanks Jeremy, I always figured it to be vacumme problem with the vacumme diaphram which closes the contact and not a fan problem . I've got an extra fan I'm going to pull apart and see if I can find the brushes. It sure gets hot down here sometimes when the fan isn't working. (Sorry to the northern folks, I feel your pain, I was at Cinncinati Intl. yesterday during the freezing rain!)
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1980 300TD, SOLD 1984 300TD, 275K 1999 C230 K Black & Tan 2013 C250 Black 1974 CJ5 Red You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper- |
#9
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The fan isn't vacuum opperated. The vac operates the actuators determining which vent air will come out of.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#10
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Yes, that too. But, on a 1980 there is a rubber plug with, I think 6, vacumme lines that run from the back of the pushbuttons to three vacumme actuated electrical contacts (yellow with both vac and wiring coming from them)directly behind the pushbutton panel. The only reason I have seen this is that I had to replace the pushbutton assembly and was completely suprised to see that much vacumme back there. They also go to the vent actuators (pink and grey). I believe that when Mercedes went to the horizontal pushbuttons that they may all be electric. I am not sure.
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1980 300TD, SOLD 1984 300TD, 275K 1999 C230 K Black & Tan 2013 C250 Black 1974 CJ5 Red You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper- |
#11
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The way the CCU works is to turns the electric signals from the puch buttons for which vents should be open or closed into a vacuum signal so the actuators work properly. So the connectos that hook up to the CCU have some wires associated with all the vac valve you are seeing behind the CCU. and some of the wires go elsewhere.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#12
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I had that ignition switch problem on my 300D. Mine was obvious because I could "fix" the problem by just wiggling the key back and forth a little. If messing with the key does not cause the blower to start, it may also be the push button unit or blower as discussed above.
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#13
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That condition is very consistent with cracked solder joints in the CCU.
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#14
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I understand now thanks.
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1980 300TD, SOLD 1984 300TD, 275K 1999 C230 K Black & Tan 2013 C250 Black 1974 CJ5 Red You might faint from the fight, but you're gonna find it. Every challenge could have paradise behind it. -John Popper- |
#15
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Thanks all, hopefully it will warm up some this weekend and I'll be able to tear into it and find the problem. I've got a new radio to put in so the dash is comming apart one way or another.
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'83 240D (for sale) '84 Harley FXRT '85 300CD Turbo (Sold) '85 500SEC (for sale) '04 Dodge Dakota Quad '06 Harley FLHTCI '97 SL320 |
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