3500w/13.5v=259.26 amps!
3500w/12v=291.7 amps!

At 140amps x 13.5v all you could use is 1,890watts.
http://www.powerbright.com/pw1500-12.html
http://www.powerbright.com/pw2300-12.html

That inverter is pretty neat w/ the remote control, but modified sine wave really sucks. My house runs on a modified sine wave inverter when the generator isn't on and it makes the florescent lights buzz like hell and the electronics don't work right either.

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif

here ya go

http://tampa.craigslist.org/tls/273072470.html

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

I didn't know Thermo Kings used MB engines, but I do know they used alot of Kubotas.
There are several good, aftermarket, governors available. Pierce and Woodruff make them. Gravely tractors used a nice small belt driven Woodruff governor. Make sure you find one with an appropriate speed range.
Up to 20KW, a two pole generator is OK (3600rpm), but any more power require, then look for a 4 pole, and size the engine accordingly (rough number often used is 1 1/2 HP per KW)
Fuel consumed is not necessarily based on the engines capability, but more on what the engine is being asked to produce, so using a 25 KW generator when you only need 15 doesn't mean you'll be using more fuel than necessary. (Old rule of thumb was 1/2 pound of fuel per HP, per Hour)
If you had access to a steady supply of fuel (Vegi, whatever) you could burn it by co-generating while still hooked to the grid. To do this, the Utility Co (and the law) would require that it be an induction generator, not a synchronous generator. This can be easily done by running an induction motor at what is known as "slip speed", an interval of 60 cycles, over or under the motors rated speed. When the utility power drops out, the motor will no longer generate electricity, so you're not pumping back into the grid. If you're a large enough producer, you can apply for a rate from your utility, which requires the utility co to buy back your excess power (usually at a small percentage of what they charge you for theirs)
It requires a meter change, as most meters are "ratchet" types, which will not turn backwards.
I have a 60KW Cummins 4BT powered generator, and it doesn't use anymore fuel than my John Deere uses running my 15KW PTO generator.
Before it went out of business, I ran a steel foundry, that used huge amounts of electricity to melt steel ($25-30K per month) We put in two Whites, 1MW each, and ran them on 80-20 Natural gas-Number 2 fuel oil. they ran 14 hrs a day, and some months we made almost as much selling back excess power as we did in steel castings, till the EPA permitting process got too unmanagable. When one of the generator engines needed rebuilding, we rented an ALCO locomotive that parked on our siding, and we ran it's power through a transformer. It was deffinately more fun than trying to make a living selling steel castings (especially to customers who thought 'BUY AMERICAN' applied to everyone but themselves)

These engines would make GREAT engines for generators. I don't know about recent years, but as of the seventies, most of the refrigerated trailers going down the road had diesel MB engines running the refrigeration unit. They were fuel stingy and lasted as close to forever as an engine can last in that application.

Those MB engines were pushrod engines as I recall and not very similar to a 616/617, but I still believe it is a great application. The problem is that you are using a very expensive engine for the application.

Keep us informed regarding this project.

Good luck,

I've thought of this project as well. I just happen to have a Isuzu C201 powered Thermo-King.
I planned on using the engine coolant to supply hot water using an exchanger.
With an electric clutch on a large compressor the engine could even run a heat pump for HVAC.

I just threw the 3500w inverter out there because I saw it on ebay. I have seen 6000w models also. Like I said, it depends on needs. For battery charging alone a good alternator driven by a good small engine is much more practical.

Interesting subject

TerryS Thanks, good info to have if contemplating a home gen set.

Anyone thinking about home power should also consider how too get the power into their home. I "back fed" the pump house sub panel for a while, which energized the main panel in the house, This is not a good idea (illegal too) if you forget to disconnect the main breaker you could electrocute workman working on the downed lines. A "transfer switch" is the answer. Easy to install if you've done any house wiring at all, and arent afraid to get into your breaker panel.

I have a 5KW Yanmar and a 2.5 KW gen head, belt drive by a small single cyl Lister diesel, it'l run about 6 hours on a gallion of fuel .

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I recently read a post on Greacecar.com ,onetank had posted some photos of just this type of generator on a trailer.

Right. If the governor doesn't maintain a steady 60 hertz frequency, kiss your appliances and electronic gadgets goodbuy. The same goes for flourescent lights. It doesn't take much of a rpm change for the frequency to climb or fall off.

For governors check out a shop that repairs motor driven welding generators. The old gasoline driven models have externally driven governors.

For generator heads check out Harbor Freight or Great Northern.

You could also just get a 3500W gas generator for about $300

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1999 E300D Turbo (For Sale approx. 4/2007)
2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L RES (hers)
2003 Chevrolet Trailblazer (SOLD)

A 3.5kw gen set is not enough to carry a house. It will just about keep your fridge, a microwave, and a couple of light going. If you are going to build one get a 10kw power head, and transfer switch from Harbor Freight or the like and do it right.

I have a 20kw Yanmar that I got from where I work. It had 300 hrs. on it and I gave $527 for it. Did some one say steal? I had a transfer switch installed on the house. Now at the threat of a hurricane I can pull the gen set around to the driveway, drag the cord down to the switch gear, plug it in, flip the switch to 'gen', and be up and running in less than half an hour from start to finish. The log cord keeps the gen set's noise and smell out front

I have 209 three phase ac that the gen set handles with no problem. Since hurricanes have a nasty habit of happening in the summer it is great that I can run the ac to keep the house dry. During the last one neighbors on both sides tapped in with extension cords for enough power to run the fridge.

Also keep your eyes open on various Creig's List or Ad Sacks for used gen sets. There must have been about a bazillion sets sold during the Y2K scare, most of which are kicking around people's garages now.

Actually for about $700 at lowes you can get an 8000watt 15HP briggs and stratton generator. Puts out both 120v and 240v power. Has electric start, oil pressure monitoring, hour meter, and a big fancy hookup set thing. 8000 watts is a LOT. Has a 5 gallon gas tank on it, not sure on the runtime, but I am assuming its pretty thirsty, especially under heavy load...

On ebay I saw these neat generators that put out 5000 watts and run on propane. Extremely clean running and very efficient, I think the one I was looking at could go for about 17-18 hours on a 50% load with a 20lb tank. Now if you have a huge home propane tank....it'd run much much longer...

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I paid 1200 for the 60kw Cummins 4BT, it had 80 hrs on it. The guy had it replaced by his insurance company. He said it was hit by lightning and the insurance company didn't want to fuss about getting it rewired. It only needed a $13 bridge diode replaced in the field circuit and it was 100%. Oh yeah, it's auto start and auto transfer too. But they set the price, so I didn't steal it.

8000 Watts is NOT alot. It's adequate for starting a well pump, run the furnace; the important stuff. If you have a 200 AMP service, try getting by with a 30 AMP service. That's what 8 KW will be like.