You're way beyond tin foil there.

The jumpy fuel gauge is likely a sender issue. Clean it out and see if that helps. The clock is probably an internal one requiring gear cleaning. THe CC issue is typically in the amplifier above your left knee by the steering column. The soldering comes undone and it goes dead or surges.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

opened mine up and the PSTO had put cardboard in between where the connection is. instead of in between the silicone and top of cover- this does come apart it may take a bit.

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Brian

82 300d turbo 164k - passed on
83 sd - passed on
04 civic hybrid - DD
06 GTO for sale - passed on
84 VW Rabbit Diesel 4dr.- passed on
94 S350D - DD
94 S320 - soon to be DD

Thanks for the info diametricalbenz!

Hey, I just put a styrofoam peanut in the RPM sender of my '82 300D. Now the tack works, thanks!!

OK, I've asked before and never gotten an answer: what exactly is this increased pressure doing, and to what part? My 84 300td has nothing in the upper portion of the cap (no innards whatsoever, nor connectors) and the tach works fine.

u shouldnt be able to see anyhting under the cap, it is covered by silicone.

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82' 300SD

As I said, there is NOTHING under the cap. Nothing. It is just a cap.

by nothing do u mean that there should be something there, but it is missing, or the cap will not come off, is it anyhting like the one in the pics?

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82' 300SD

I don't know how I could be any more clear when I say it is a cap with nothing in it, but I will try to answer your queries...

No, I'm not suggesting anything should or should not be there. I'm just saying that nothing is inside the cap.

Uhh... if the cap would not come off, how would I know it was empty?

The plug/connector the cap screws on to appears to be the same. The cap in the pictures is taller than the cap that's on my 300td.

The one on 1984 and up do nothing for the Tachometer. It is a diagnostic plug for the dealer's use. The sending unit on 84 and up is on the bell housing.

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N. Hodges
1994 S350
1987 300 SDL (for sale)

Thank you very much for that explanation!

Don't know if it was in this forum or one of the others, someone explained the problem as being the pins in the plug not making good contact with the holes in the recetpacle. By placing the cigarette but, popcorn, or aluminum foil in the connector you are forcing the plug further down inside the receptacle. If I recall correctly, the proper soloution would be to disassemble the receptacle and slightly crimp the individual receptacles.

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'83 240D (for sale)
'84 Harley FXRT
'85 300CD Turbo (Sold)
'85 500SEC (for sale)
'04 Dodge Dakota Quad
'06 Harley FLHTCI
'97 SL320

Awesome! Thanks a lot, it definitely fixed mine! I had been putting off looking into it because I figured it would entail soldering!

I thought it was on the IP

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Closing the store
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I have fixed 2 of these things and the problem is bad solder connections under the silicone plug. If you dig it out you will see the ends of the wires sticking out of the printed circuit board. Look close with a magnifying glass and you will find one or several loose solder joints. When you put a spacer like foil or foam under the cap it pushes the silicone down on the board and hopefully jams the broken joints together.