Holy Carp , there is a river of oil down there! (hose gods help!)
 

The PO mentioned something about having to rerun the oil cooler lines. I had looked at them before and they were def in wrong but appeared to be serviceable. NOT! So yesterday my steering started pulsating real bad and the alt light was coming on. Oil pressure was still high so I assumed they were just loose. After taking her to the car wash she was acting real funky, the turbo would spool but no real power (oil still pegged at 3), I assumed (and still assume) this is due to a leak in the alda vac system OR a problem with the over boost switch (how do you check the overboost switch, how does it work)? So this AM while still dark out I went to look at the car and got dripped on. Turns out the steering pump belt was rubbing on the oil cooler hose. Looks like not only will I re run it I will have replace as well.

Is there a secret oh hose gods? I did this on my wifes car and WHAT A PITA. Which way do you take it out? To the front of the car or rear? Top or bottom? I have to replace hers as well. I picked the best looking of the lot at pull a part for hers. It worked temporarily (the old one was dropping alot more) but is dropping a fair amount of oil now.

I'd never recommend using used oil cooler lines. First of all, the job is such a PITA why would you want to risk having to do it again in a short time just to save a few dollars? Isn't your time (and sanity) worth anything?

I have heard you can bring the old lines to a hydraulic shop and they can replace the rubber bits cheaply enough so if money is the problem then that's the route I would take, but again, there is time and trouble involved with this too...might be worth it if you have two cars to do though.

Since you've already done the job once you know how it's done...you'll just need to bite the bullet and do it again...this time don't reuse old rubber.

check your motor mounts, if they are bad, the motor can tilt causing the PS belt to cut the oil cooler lines!
John

The line is def in wrong. He did also replace the motor mounts now that you mention it. Guess I should check that out as well.

There is nothing to it if you disconnect the LH engine mount and shock and jack the engine up a bit. Remove hoses to the rear and down.

Where to jack engine up? I am leary of applying a jack to the oil pan.

Put a board (and some padding if you like) under the oil pan to distribute the weight. Also disconnect the accelerator linkage at the firewall and unclip the radiator baffle.

Going to a hydraulic shop may not be such a bad idea.
I just happened to be in one lately and inquired about the oil cooler lines. They said they could do it with a 4 hour turn around time.

Danny

At what cost? I can get the hose for $65ish