white smoke = water/coolant
Blue smoke = oil
Black Smoke = unburnt fuel

__________________
-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto

Thanks for the clarification on smoke colors. Man I hope my head gasket is not blown. Would a blown head gasket possible explain the ticking noise?

I have been listening to that audio track several times and it doesn't sound that bad. Have the valves been adjusted?

Have you added some cetane booster or some biodiesel or even some clean vegoil? Running on pure or old #2 diesel the W115 really makes a racket when it's running.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

Some white smoke can also be from cold combustion.

diametricalbenz - I have not adjusted the valves yet. Hopefully I will do it in the morning. Can I do it without any special tools? Also, can I temp put the valve cover back on with the old gasket until this weekend when I can buy another?

I wonder if adjusting the valves can make the engine run that much quieter?

Yes it can. It is even louder than normal when the valves are all tight. When it's in spec it has more power (and you need it!) and it runs smoother due to optimal compression (of what is left). You need two wrenches to do the work but I am not sure if you need the bent wrench since it's a 4 cylinder.

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

The Bent wrench definitely helps, I use one bent and a regular 14 mm. The white smoke at startup is most likely unburnt fuel. If teh car is difficult starting (and I suspect it is without a valve adjustment) the exhaust will very likely be white-greyish smoke. It's not black smoke because the engine is firing yet due to low compression/cold cylinders.

The 10W40 wont hurt anyting for testing, but don't plan on using it for ever. You'll get more blow-by and more leaking oil as it's thinner.

On the last video, the car seemed to clank really loud, I'm wondering if it was caused by the open hood, as when you moved colser to the car it seemed to get quieter.


Good luck

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Closing the store
Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet.

I used just two straight 14mm wrenches when I adjusted my valves for the first time, this past week. I can see where the bent wrenches would work a little better, but I got along fine with my regular wrenches. Of course, I had the injector lines off, as I had removed them to get easier access to the glow plugs. With the injector lines on, it would be tougher with the normal, straight, wrenches.
Jim

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1979 Mercedes 240D (Sold to a neighbor last year,now I have room for a new one,looking for a 300D this time)
1980 Mercedes 240D(bought for a parts car, but I have fun driving it!)

Oh. That sounds like what I am experiencing. Could bad injector cause this? One or two are definitely nailing bad until the turbo gets spun up a few times. Then my smoke goes away.

I am finally getting a chance to check the chain stretch and IP timing this weekend.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Thanks for the help. I will give it a go with two regular 14mm wrenches. If need be, I could throw them in the gas forge for and bend them to the shape I need. Anyone have pictures of what the bent ones look like?

Check out this thread for making your own valve adjustment wrenches. By the way my '75 240D sounds similar at idle.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=180280&highlight=valve+adjustment+wrenches

jfields - thanks for the link!

I got my fingers crossed that this engine is OK.