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#1
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Steering Box Adjustment
Nobody seems to answer this question directly. If you have play in the steering box, how much can you safely adjust out of it? Some people say that you only rebuild the box if it leaks. Other people say you can only adjust the steering box to a certain level of effort off the center axis, and then you should rebuild the box.
So what is the answer? Crank on the adjustment screw until the play is gone, or rebuild the box even if it does not leak? |
#2
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It depends on how much play there is.
For most MBs with recirculating ball steering, you back off the set screw (CCW!) to reduce play. Unless you’re adjusting the box on a bench using the factory procedure, don’t adjust out all the play or you’ll wear out the box quickly. Back off the adjustment screw a quarter or half turn at a time. Then test the setting on the road to decide whether it made a difference. If there’s no difference after a couple of full turns, the box might be too far worn. Sixto 98 E320s sedan and wagon 02 C320 wagon |
#3
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The adjustment screw on the steering box is not for "play". It is to adjust friction. Sometimes a small adjustment may seem to take play out of the steering but it is still only adjusting the friction in the box. Too much adjustment (rotating screw ccw outward) will result in the steering not returning to center and as sixto says, increased wear.
Benz steering boxes are very robust. Most steering play problems are a result of worn components in the steering links under the car. Check out your tie rods, drag link, ball joints, etc. Be aware that our recirculating ball steering gear will never be as precise-feeling as rack and pinion. MB spec is 1" or less movement measured at the steering wheel rim. |
#4
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I drove a 67 chevy GMC pickup for a couple years then drove an MR2. If you breathed that little car changed lanes. I was pulled over by a cop who followed me out of a small town, stopped me and asked if I'd been drinking.
I said no and he said you swerved. I said when you got up on my butt I realized I was in 4th gear and shifted to 5th to get along at the speed limit instead of impeding traffic. He seemed to doubt my truthfulness so I invited him to drive the car after explaining it was new to me. His investigation ended when he realized I had a valid excuse for swerving, I was learning to adjust my driving habit from an old wore out, slack steering system to a tiny rearwheel, rear engine car with a tight rack and pinion steering. It's a radical example of moving from a w123 or w126 to rack and pinion. Imo, the rack and pinon is great but there's much more probability that you'll get in trouble from over steer in rack and pinion than you will the old MBs.
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84 300SD 85 380SE 83 528e 95 318ic |
#5
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If you cannot adjust the play any more and you don't like how much play there is; is also a reason to rebuild the Steering box.
On mine what I found out is that I needed to have some play. When I adjusted it till there was no play when I turned the steering wheel one way it would sort of momentarily stick forcing me to over correct and turn the wheel the opposite way and repeating the sticking issue. As a result of that I would be rocking that wheel back and fort just to keep going straight.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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Right now, everything in the steering linkage has been rebuilt except the box. A visual inspection shows that all of the play is in the box. I adjusted the screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise which helped reduce the play about 50%, and made the steering stiffer. There is still too much play at around 2 inches. The steering box does not leak. I am not sure what to do from here. I am afraid adjusting the screw more could damage the box because I just don't really understand how this thing is supposed to work. I could send the box in for a rebuild, but I am not sure if a rebuild does anything except replace the seals.
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#7
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Carock, have you replaced your steering coupler idler arm, and made sure it's all torqued to spec?
I foolishly forgot to torque the idler arm to it's required torque spec and got 2 inches of play on my car. Really import to get that 120 odd ft lbs of torque or whatever it was. A worn steering coupler can also cause this. The coupler attaches the steering wheel shaft to the box. Check that component if you haven't yet. |
#8
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Quote:
I have not been inside of mine but the general design is similar to a 1970's ford type power steering. If I recall correctly on that the adjustment screw moves the small gear that is attached to the Pitman Arm Shaft in and out and that gear is tapered. By Tapered I mean that along the length of the gear tooth one end is thinner tapers and gets fatter. When you adjust it to remove play you are moving the gear in a direction that pushes the fatter part of the gear into slots on the Piston.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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Quote:
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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily 1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk 2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor. |
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