Engine Mounts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tobybul · #1 04-20-2007, 12:30 PM

I was scoping out changing the mounts on the 84D but, man, looks like quite a chore. I read the DIY links and none of them made it sound like anything but an 8 hour job

. I'd really like to do it but....

Is it best to remove the engine shocks first? I have most of the tools except the 6mm & 8mm allen socket bits. Alls I have are the L-allens.

I just changed the tranny mounts as I was doing driveshaft work but looks like the eng mts can use replacing...

Any magic formulas out there

whunter · #2 04-20-2007, 04:19 PM

This is a one hour DIY for most people.
You must disconnect one end of each engine shock to raise the engine.

bodyart27 · #3 04-20-2007, 05:00 PM

it's a pay for site, but pindelski.com has a great write up on the procedure

pawoSD · #4 04-20-2007, 05:13 PM

I did it on mine....took less than 2 hours. Really not all that much too it. The biggest pain is getting the bolts out of the engine support arms, and the little ones that hold the mounts to the frame. Otherwise its easy.

tobybul · #5 04-20-2007, 07:10 PM

Thanks Fellas.... how ya doing, Roy?

Ok that makes sense about disconnecting one end of the shock. Seems the upper end is most accessible, at least on the drivers side.

Wish I attacked it today. I had it all set up, jack stands and everything - but chickened out.

Might try it this weekend. PawoSD, you're welcome to stop by and give me some pointers - or help out

tobybul · #6 04-20-2007, 07:16 PM

My concern was getting to the inner bolt... plus what's the 8mm bolt? Isn't it just two 6mm allen bolts holding down the mount?

Biodiesel300TD · #7 04-20-2007, 08:35 PM

There's two 6mm bolts on the top and one 8mm bolt on the bottom. Make sure you remove the engine shocks first or you will destroy the mounts and/or the shocks when you jack up the engine to remove the engine mounts. I did mine on my wagon a few weeks back it took me a couple hours.

Whiskeydan · #8 04-20-2007, 11:49 PM

Gunk, soak, power wash, repeat.
Clean out those allen heads before you start and you'll be fine.

As stated earlier, takes about an hr.

pawoSD · #9 04-21-2007, 01:37 AM

I actually have a small laundry list of things to do to my SD tomorrow...otherwise I'd stop on by.

It includes:

-Transmission fluid/filter change (complete drain) w/synthetic again
-Removal of passenger front door interior panel, for lock actuator replacement, as it leaks air and the pump runs too long
-Exhaust system inspection, because I hear a "ssssss" hissing from under the car when I rev it or accelerate....probably a rusted weld on the connection Lentz made last fall.

-Might check/top off the differential oil while I'm under there
-Inspect both flex discs thoroughly, as I'm paranoid

-Begin analysis of what needs to be done to stop my rust on the passenger fender...
-Potentially check out and buy a utility trailer I've been looking at...and intend to pull around with the SD....
-Wire up the wiring harness for the trailer
-Check engine oil level
-Vacuum entire interior, clean windows and dash/trim etc....
-Help my dad finish up some work on his car

Yikes.

tobybul · #10 04-21-2007, 06:39 AM

Wow, and I thought I spend too much time on the Ds

. I'll probably sneak work into the 84 this weekend anyway. Gotta do my parental duties and watch my son's Regatta at Riverside Park today.

The other thing am doing is trying to tune the transmission shifting. I thought I found the problem when I replaced the modulator cap (cracked and leaking). Made some improvement but still too quick from 2-3 and mild slam from 3-2. I'll probably post a new thread on this and see if I can get some help

.

dieseldan44 · #11 04-21-2007, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Wow, and I thought I spend too much time on the Ds

. I'll probably sneak work into the 84 this weekend anyway. Gotta do my parental duties and watch my son's Regatta at Riverside Park today.

The other thing am doing is trying to tune the transmission shifting. I thought I found the problem when I replaced the modulator cap (cracked and leaking). Made some improvement but still too quick from 2-3 and mild slam from 3-2. I'll probably post a new thread on this and see if I can get some help

.

For the transmission, search for a thread called 'It's critical...' by Samuel Ross. Most if not all of the info is in there, albeit scattered.

A super cliff notes version:
-you need to make sure you dont have any leaks in the enitre vac system. this certainly could be causing your problem. try teeing off all of the accessories that are off of the second tee on the master brake line
-if your EGR system isnt disabled and teed off, now is the time
-with car off, make sure the modulator holds vacuum for 1/2 hour
-with car on, tee vacuum gauge into line that goes to transmission. vacuum should start at about 15, and diiminish to 0 at full throttle. if not, then you need to check your VCV

i'd be happy to help further...ive been through all of this and it takes a long time to research.

besides, I'll probably need advice at some point when i need to change my center driveshaft bushing like you did :-)

dd

whunter · #12 04-21-2007, 05:25 PM

Transmission:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142395