Hopefully New-to-me 300TD - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rmmagow · #1 04-26-2007, 10:38 AM

TD or DT for the wagon? Anyway, I'm going to look at a two owner 85 300TD w/210K on the clock. The car looks pretty good from a cursory look given last fall, it runs so smooth it hardly feels like a diesel. Interior is very very nice, I think the A/C works but it was hard to tell when I last drove it. The car alledgedly has service records going back to the window sticker.
Now, before I make another starry-eyed mistake I'd like some idea of how much this car might be worth if I don't uncover any under battery rust, hood hindge pocket rust, wet carpets etc etc. I've owned an 83 300D for many years and know the car a bit. I think he's going to ask $5500.00, I don't want to insult him, but I also don't want to be a chump if you know what I mean. Would $4K, maybe 4500 be reasonable? I actually know the owner a little, he is the Uncle of my son's best friend and someone I've sat and had a beer with so I kind of trust what he's telling me about the car.
Advice sought. This would be a car I'd be proud to drive to a GTG, nice good looking brown wagon.

Jim B. · #2 04-26-2007, 10:54 AM

Look it over and have it checked out first before you make the offer.
If it's a northern or eastern car it might have rust, lots of it, check EVERYWHERE for it. These cars are vulnerable to rust, and if it has rust, especially in the rockers and jack points, or the floors, it's probably not even worth considering.

If it passes muster then you can think about the price. In negotiating for the car, don't appear too eager, it puts you at a disadvantage. Try to appear as if you regard it as nothing more than metal, a piece of transportation you might be mildly interested in, reluctant but seriously needing a car

See what asking price he puts out there, it sounds like you don't know.

If he says $5500, you could offer $4500 and if he says no, don't say anything.
(The person who reopens negotiations has the disadvantage.)

With the biodiesel aspect driving the prices up, these days, though, if it's rust free and accident free and has all the books and records, I would go ahead and pay $5500 for it without a problem, after all it is the '85 also, the last of them.

If it's a really good car, the price you pay now won't matter, years from now, if you are still enjoying a good car.

If all else fails, and the car is good, and he wants $5500, it would be all right to pay it, it is a good market price these days. The cardinal advice is to get the BEST condition example you can afford, even if you have to pay a premium. The corollary is that there is no car more expensive than a "cheap" Mercedes Benz, remember this

rmmagow · #3 04-26-2007, 11:52 AM

Thanks Jim, just the advice I was hoping for. I think I know enough about the car to do a fairly good mechanical evaluation. When I got my 83 300D I thought it was great until I had to figure out where water was coming in and took out the battery. Big and nasty surprise. That, the hindge area and the passenger floor all had problems. The jack points and main structure of the car were OK, but still the rust was and is an issue. I know there's a little bubbling at the rear wheel arch on one side. This is going to be looked at closely to see if it is maybe just a hint of severe problems. I'm going to try and conduct a "sag" if I can jack the car up at the corner and see how well the doors work. Mechanically, I'll look closely at the fuel filter, Brake fliud, coolant and tranny fluid to give me a little idea of maintenance levels. The owner seems to have really liked this car and can well aford to have it regularly serviced. I was thinking the same thing about the $5500.00. If it checks out it is worth it. Admittedly, I'll be driving the doors off it, 100 miles a day, but I can't think of any other car that could handle this and continue to be easy to care for.
Thanks for the advice.

kerry · #4 04-26-2007, 12:19 PM

He probably wouldn't have any problem getting that price on Ebay.

lkchris · #5 04-26-2007, 01:09 PM

Take it to a dealer and get a PPI (pre-purchase inspection).

winmutt · #6 04-26-2007, 01:25 PM

The real question is:

Does it have third row seathing?

If the car is in tiptop mechanical condition, recent transmission rebuild, suspension rebuild, all the regular maintenance, third row seat, good paint no rus I would say 5500 is a high but reasonable price.

pizzachef · #7 04-27-2007, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

The real question is:
Does it have third row seathing?

I don't get the third row seating draw...is it just for bragging rights? I used mine once when we actually had 7 people to haul somewhere, but the two smallest adults in the back were cramped. And the back usually has stuff in it and you can't lift the seats.

And I know the Benz's are safe cars, but with the size of vehicles on the road today, would you want your kinds back there very much? Maybe once in a while...

I dunno, I think it is a neat option, but mine stay folded down almost all the time now.

pizzachef · #8 04-27-2007, 11:32 AM

Well, I didn't even give any advice...sorry bout that.

Get under the car and look at the self leveling components. They're all near the rear axle. Make sure the cylinders (look like shocks) aren't leaking. And just the general condition of the lines and valves. Then check the reservoir under the hood and see if it has fluid.
Then when you drive the car see how it behaves, mine does this (but I don't know if they all behave the same since you can adjust it): When I move it from park to reverse, the rear end lifts up a little. You can definitely see and feel it. Then reverse to drive and it drops down a little. It really impresses passengers.

Other than that, make sure there's not a ton of blowby and all the fluids look full and clean. There's a thread here somewhere that has a good checklist.
Good luck.

Mismost · #9 04-27-2007, 06:28 PM

At $5500 bucks EVERYTHING better work perfect and not a spec of rust to be found. I think $5500 is reserved for a dead solid perfect TD. These are just old station wagons, they are not really collectable type automobiles as much as WE may love them....they are classy looking, but not what I would call Classic Car.

To check the SLS pop the hatch door and set a couple of good sized bodies on the tailgate....have someone start the car...you should feel/see the rear end adjust in height if all is working right.

When it comes to real estate and cars my first offer is always down in the dirt. I can always offer more...you'd be surprised how loud cash in hand talks!! Start low, ease up real slow....if you can't get it for YOU think it's worth, walk away (but leave your phone number!).

rmmagow · #10 04-29-2007, 05:36 PM

Went to have a good look today. Not starry eyed any more. The engine compartment is pretty filthy but looks like everything's there. No rust at the jacking points or in the floor. Some rust on the rear quarters. Inside is dirty but the wood is OK with only the heater controls area having a delamination problem. The worst is at the outer corners of each door there's rust through, as if water was in the doors for a long time. I was thinking 4500 but now I'm thinking to just walk. Rust is too hard to stop in New England. I already have a rusting 300D, can't imagine needing two.