Hey guys,

I have been a lurker here for a little while and thank you all for the great info.

I have been getting ready to go full bore green and need a little help from the "experienced".

I have looked at a 1984 300d today and a 1983 300sd today. I need help deciding.

1984 300d: little better interior, ac blower out, chain for sunroof broken - motor ok, Front brakes need badly very stiff no bite at all, stereo works, runs and shifts like a top, leaky first injector, good tires, all wdws work, all gauges work, good front end suspension, little leak at belly pan, hood emblem gone. (very little blow-by and no white exhaust smoke) @ $1500 currently

1983 300sd: interior more hammered with broken door parts, ac blows ok just not frigid, sun roof works, stereo works, gauges work, all wdws work, brakes feel ok prolly need little work, front suspension feels like toast (clunk when I hit brakes)- play in the A arms? and shocks toast, tires are toast, one head light out, battery is toast, leak at belly pan, shifts a little rough / hard. (very little blow-by and no white exhaust smoke) @ $1400 --> $1200

So my question is which one will be best buy? least cost initially to get in shape? (I do like the body of the SD best though...?)

I plan to burn pure grease!!!


Thanks for the input guys!

I would keep looking for a nicer car . I have found several for less than $1500 with less than half the problems you are seeing. I just bought an '82 300D for $1500, no problems , everything is working. Turn the key and go other than change all the fluids. My '83 300D , I bought for $800, needed a trans modulator valve $50 and all the fluids changed. There out there , just do your home work.

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'83 240D 264k on 100% biodiesel/ 31mpg
83 300D 217K the $800 gem
'82 300D 267K the new WVO project car finished and driving for free
International tractor B275 on B100
Ford 555 backhoe on B100
Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50

Thanks biobenz.. I must say that out east things are a little cheper when it comes to these projects. Here in the bling bling west its ridiculous... I have been looking for some time and the only other place to get a car is LA and fuel going and coming back would be hell as it is..

So anyways, I just priced out a few parts on what I think I will be needing on the SD as the gentleman called me back and said he would take $1200 for it as he would like to see me make a green grease burner! Im ok with the costs of parts as I will do the jobs myself though I am concerned with the A/C. Can I get this r-12 system recharged or MUST I convert the system? Does anyone have a link to the kit needed for the upgrade so I can price it out as well? (it gets hot as hell here and its starting up already)

Much appreciated guys, as this will be my first WVO project. If all goes well I plan on converting a 2008 Dodge 4x4 2500 6.7l cummins turbo diesel beast.


Cheers!

if it's still on 12, DO NOT CONVERT!!! if it's not cooling well, clean the condenser, and make sure the aux fan is working. get your online certification, and buy some 12 cans. with a simple set of guages, you can keep a 12 system working Much better than 134a... especially in NV.
John

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Unfortunately for me, I have r-134a in my benz. I plan to deconvert it to r12 in the future when my compressor dies. Try to find one with r-12, you can get an online certification (15 dollars?) to use it, buy some cans off ebay or craigslist, get some guages too, an r-12 probably cheaper than r-134a in the long run because r-134a leaks and is hard on the components.

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1980 240d
1999 SL500

I think the idea of going to LA is a good one, if you can afford to spend a couple of days looking for a car there. There are lots of good ones there, and it is a car culture there two, so there are lots of nicely kept up ones there. I went there and got my car there (10 years ago) after being frustrated after a year of looking unsuccessfully in the SF bay area.

However if your plan is to get the local SD, I agree, stick with the R12, it cools better, and the R134 may be incompatible with the aircondtioning hardware in the car, better to be safe, as it gets hot as hell in Vegas in the summer, I know that

My .02

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1991 560 SEC AMG, 199k <---- 300 hp 10:1 ECE euro HV ...

1995 E 420, 170k "The Red Plum" (sold)

2015 BMW 535i xdrive awd Stage 1 DINAN, 6k, <----364 hp

1967 Mercury Cougar, 49k

2013 Jaguar XF, 20k <----340 hp Supercharged, All Wheel Drive (sold)

So, "IF" I get this car and I am so close to doing it.......... Then would it be in my best interest to evac the R-12 system first, put one ounce of oil one ounce of dye and then correct amount "psi" of freon?


Thanks guys!!

I prefer the W126

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Sounds like a preference issue. Hood star runs maybe $30.00. I prefer the ride of the 126, yet has more interior squeaks. I have an interior part or two lying around for both. The AC works in the CD, not in the SD. The compressor does not come on. The driver side windows work sometimes, passenger, not at all on SD. All fine on CD. SD more susceptible to failure on windows. Sun roof works on a cable. Both cars have same engine. Front clunck could be engine mounts and shocks. If you're sending engine forward every time you hit the brakes, you may be accerating the decline of other driveline components, not to mention potential new radiator. Front end work on either not a big deal. If you don't have to work on it, you're money and time ahead. Further inspections await you. AC is better, for me, to leave to a pro.

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83 SD

84 CD

Hey ToomanyMBZ..

Thanks for the post.. I took a second look inside and out of the SD which I like best. It just has more to that model... The vehicle is more solid than I thought. It is fron Kansas so no rust or damage anywhere..

Simply stupid broken pieces on the door or because they left the car sitting in the Las Vegas sun here, it got beat up... Hell I bet the leather center pieces from the top of the rear seats shrunk half they're size in just a week of summer heat out here. There is till the stock med kit in the back section too. Tires are in better shape than I thought and brakes look good too. (though not fluids) It seems the clunk I was feel / hearing was the old worn busings from the front end . I tested the shocks and spring rate and they are good too.

WHats up with a leaky belly pan? just a gasket or a tube of gasket sealer? I have only seen the pan and gasket kits....

Anyhow, I got the guy down to $1100 as "she" has got the case of the "no turn offs".. Common problem I guess, from what I read here...


Looks like I will be picking her up tomorrow. I'll be sure to keep a little journal of the progress, which will basically be by all my questions here!
Cheers!

Just yesterday I took delivery of an 84 300SD. My current DD is an 85 300TDT. I already like the SD better. They each have their own issues (kinda like people) but once I give the SD the go through, it will become my DD. Plus, the exterior is in much better shape. I liked the "spirit" of the TD but overall I love the SD. I was gonna keep the TD but now I think I'm gonna sell it. That will make room for a possible 300SDL in my future.

I say go for the SD.

As an option, since they aren't bankbreakers, you could get both and tinker with both of them. The motors are pretty much the same.

One observation -- if you are gonna run WVO or bio, get the vehicle that has the stronger motor and less issues. That will hopefully set you up for success in running the WVO or bio.

Good luck!
.....Dan

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99 e300
98 e300
90 Suburban 1500 4x4
92 ZR-1
04 Tahoe 4x4
05 Scag 52" zero turn
97 e300 - totaled on black ice
84 300SD - gave to a friend
85 300TDT Euro - SOLD to my little bro

I ended up buying a 300D after looking at several 300SDs and even SDLs because the D fit into my garage better.

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Good deal on the rust aspect. Which bushings? Are the brooken door pieces the part from middle of arm rest to door panel? Common failure, I might one laying around. The leather on top of the back seat on mine also needs replacing, $250 at the local auto top place. IIUC, the belly pan uses just a gasket, no sealer. Torque to specs. Not shutting off with key is a common vac issue. Enjoy!

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83 SD

84 CD

I suspect I need the front sway bar bushings as I have read the clunk I hear when applying the brakes has to do with the bushings being worn out as is common on the w126..(?) As for the door pieces, the wood was warped due to baking in the sun, and cracked, then cracked the pieces behind the inner door pull (handle).. (3 of 4 broken) Lots of other things work though that surprised me... Even all the fluids are of nice color and consistency. Might explain the napa fuel filters everywhere. (even a new one in the center console)

Anyhoo, I spent 4 hrs cleaning her and bringing her up to snuf. (Im glad I found all the original manuals and even the original sales sticker) A doctor purchased her for $40k!

I'm gonna do the belly pan gasket and oil change next asap; and fix the shut off problem asap as well. THen move on to the A/C and WVO setup.....

Ill post some pics soon.

Cheers Guys!

Cool.

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83 SD

84 CD