how do you change a W210 diesel fuel filter? (without spilling everywhere) - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jnc19610 · #1 05-03-2007, 09:39 PM

Last week, I 'attempted' to change my fuel filter for the first time. I've had my W210 for just over a year, 27K miles, and I thought it was time.

Anyways.... I looked things up in my star classic cd, it didn't look like a hard job. I wrenched on the banjo bolt, and fuel started spraying everywhere, on the belt, on the pullies, down the side of the motor. (I had a full fuel tank) I was thinking 'whiskey tango foxtrot' have I done. So, I rip open the box for the new filter and see 2 o-rings, Ok.... I know where one goes where, where does the other one go. And WHY DOESN'T MERCEDES PACKAGE AN O-RING FOR THE PRE-FILTER! all the time fuel is spewing from my now removed filter.

So... I pre-fill my new filter with sea foam, and then find out. IT DOESN'T FIT BACK WHERE IT CAME FROM without twisting, and leaking out about 1/2 the sea foam I pre-filled the filter with (all over the serp belt).

What have I done? What is the secret?

I think next time, I'll loosen the idler pulley on the serp belt, when I change the fuel filter. (it's just too hard to fit it in there)

What do you guys do to change fuel filters on W210?s

TIA...
jnc

99 E300
99 boxster
03 Jag s type
70 914/6.

michakaveli · #2 05-03-2007, 09:52 PM

Sounds like you are making things wayyy too complicated. To remove the main filter, I squeeze the radiator hose and bent it slightly to let me slide the filter over then and then her straight up. Reverse for re-installation.

The pre-filter is very simple too. I use a flat head to head pry her up a bit and then she is free.

nhdoc · #3 05-03-2007, 09:52 PM

1st secret...don't fill the filter until it is snaked into position under the housing, then just slide it out a little, fill it, and put it back and screw it in.

2nd secret...next time do it when the tank is near empty or park on an incline with the nose up to reduce gravity feeding of fuel from the tank.

You probably figured out as I did there is only one o-ring needed for the W210 application...apparently some car models use the other one...for our cars you don't need both though.

dukegrad98 · #4 05-03-2007, 11:07 PM

I've changed mine once or twice, as my B100 fuel has really scrubbed a lot of crud out of the tank. I had no issues of "spewing" when I removed the filter. Surely you didn't try this with the engine running or something, did you? I'm not sure why you'd have so much residual pressure.

I just carefully moved the plastic line attached to the fuel filter mount out of the way. Then I loosened up the single bolt and got the filter loose. I pulled it out toward the front of the car, just pushing the radiator hose out of the way. I poured fresh fuel into the new filter, slid it into the mount, retightened the bolt, and put the hard plastic line back in place.

The whole procedure took about two minutes, the first time I did it. I didn't spill anymore than is appropriate to wipe off with a rag.

Sounds like you didn't really do anything wrong -- you just got unlucky and made a mess. Did you have any trouble restarting? I didn't let in too much air, but following the filter change my 175k mile engine had to crank a few times (for a good sixty seconds or so total) before it finally roared to life.

Cheers, John

JimSmith · #5 05-03-2007, 11:16 PM

I didn't have exactly the same experience but I did have the fuel run out of the hose at a decent rate, enough that I thought maybe I should take the fuel filler cap off to release the pressure. That didn't help, and I ended up just leaking another ten seconds of fuel. So, I quickly put it back together and cleaned the mess up. Haven't done it since (about 40k miles or so). But I will wait until I have less than a quarter tank and will drive nose up on a hill to get the job done.

So, don't feel like you did something to make the fuel run out - I think it is pretty much what happens with a significant fuel load. Jim

aklim · #6 05-03-2007, 11:25 PM

I let the system cool down and did it the next morning once and did it once after it was shut down for a half hour. No diff. I started with the prefilter. I also remembered getting a ring first. Then I undid the banjo bolt and held the filter bottom till the bolt got all the way out. No problems with fuel splashing all over. Filled up new filter and changed O-rings. Put new filter in place and screwed banjo bolt. In either case, I have let the car sit for a while since I don't like to play with hot fuel. Remember, the fuel goes thru a heating unit before it gets to the filters.

WINGAS · #7 05-04-2007, 09:24 AM

The residual pressure is from a full tank. Don;t ask me how I know

Do it on "R" next time. the 606.910 requries you unbolt the mount to get access to the filter.

aklim · #8 05-04-2007, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 427L88

The residual pressure is from a full tank. Don;t ask me how I know

Do it on "R" next time. the 606.910 requries you unbolt the mount to get access to the filter.

So if that is the case, why not just vent the tank via the fuel cap?

WINGAS · #9 05-04-2007, 09:42 AM

Yeah, I guess I could have. Actually, I had the supply.return crossed and my return lines filled ( there werent all connected) and filled the head cover with fuel!

Still easier done on R. I wont Diesel Purge this thing until I run it another 600 miles and empty the tank before I pull the lines.

vstech · #10 05-04-2007, 10:07 AM

the pressure is from the column of fuel in the tank, not pressure. (well some could be from tank pressure, but not much) anyway, taking off the cap would actually make it spew out faster, from releasing the slight vacuum with the cap on.
John