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  #1  
Old 05-05-2007, 12:20 AM
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Exclamation Enviro-Safe Refrigerant

ANyone try or have and experienced based opinions on the Enviro-Safe Refrigerant that replaces R-22 and R134a? Supposedly a more efficent, 100% organic product than R-22..





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  #2  
Old 05-05-2007, 12:34 AM
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I'm using it and having a very good experience with it. Some don't like it because its flammable, but I'll stick with it, supposed to work better than R12 (I've never tried R12, or 134a for that matter), and I feel no decrease in power when the AC is on, while its supposed to have a noticeable decrease with R12.. And I can feel a wind blowing against the car most of the time..
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  #3  
Old 05-05-2007, 12:36 AM
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cars use R-12, R-22 is for house A/C

I have heard of propane used in A/C car units

btw my dieing home ice box uses a R-12 R-11 mix
is there a way to separate R-12 from the R-11 or use both in a car??

Last edited by whunter; 05-05-2007 at 02:15 AM. Reason: correct refrigerant name R-12
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  #4  
Old 05-05-2007, 01:21 AM
LostWages,Nv Grease BURN!
 
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Talking Well...

Well the system in the car barely works yet it all works... So its time for the recharge and R-12 is just ridiculously priced and unsafe, etc...
So far I have read MANY positive experiences with the Enfiro-Safe as it is more efficient as you have noted.


I guess I will give it a try with a can of oil as well? It say no need to change the oil, but what if I want to? Does the oil get evacuated at the same time as the old R-12? Is it w whole other process to put the oil in???


Cheers!
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  #5  
Old 05-05-2007, 01:51 AM
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You should flush the system and change the receiver drier and expansion valve. Depending on how your oil is packaged, you can either inject some before connecting everything back together, or pull a vacuum, and fill with oil charge. Then add your refrigerant. Either way, you should put a little oil in the compressor first, even if it means squirting some from an oil charge can in..
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1991 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL | Megasquirt MS3-Pro | 722.6 transmission w/ AMG paddles | Feind Motorsports Sway Bar | Stinger VIP Radar | AntiLaser Priority | PLX Wideband O2 | 150A Alternator | Cat Delete
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  #6  
Old 05-05-2007, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300SD81 View Post
You should flush the system and change the receiver drier and expansion valve. Depending on how your oil is packaged, you can either inject some before connecting everything back together, or pull a vacuum, and fill with oil charge. Then add your refrigerant. Either way, you should put a little oil in the compressor first, even if it means squirting some from an oil charge can in..
Actually the best way is to put the factory oil charge in (in mine it's 10 oz.), half in the compressor, half in the accumulator/drier, pull a vacuum, then use a scale or dial-a-charge to weigh in your refrigerant. I have never heard of R-12 being dangerous in any way except in an open flame (& to your WALLET!)
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Old 05-05-2007, 11:31 AM
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[quote=300SD81;1498564]I'm using it and having a very good experience with it. Some don't like it because its flammable, but I'll stick with it, supposed to work better than R12 (I've never tried R12, or 134a for that matter), and I feel no decrease in power when the AC is on, while its supposed to have a noticeable decrease with R12.. And I can feel a wind blowing against the car most of the time..[/quote

Whats the name of this stuff? Does it really cool as well as R-12?
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Old 05-05-2007, 11:55 AM
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[quote=Bruce Kennedy;1498781]
Quote:
Originally Posted by 300SD81 View Post
I'm using it and having a very good experience with it. Some don't like it because its flammable, but I'll stick with it, supposed to work better than R12 (I've never tried R12, or 134a for that matter), and I feel no decrease in power when the AC is on, while its supposed to have a noticeable decrease with R12.. And I can feel a wind blowing against the car most of the time..[/quote

Whats the name of this stuff? Does it really cool as well as R-12?
http://www.es-refrigerants.com/
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1991 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL | Megasquirt MS3-Pro | 722.6 transmission w/ AMG paddles | Feind Motorsports Sway Bar | Stinger VIP Radar | AntiLaser Priority | PLX Wideband O2 | 150A Alternator | Cat Delete
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Blown engine, rebuilding someday...
1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Rear ended, retired in garage.
2009 Yamaha AR230HO | Das Boot

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  #9  
Old 05-05-2007, 01:04 PM
LostWages,Nv Grease BURN!
 
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30%

From what I read its cools 30% more than R-12 because it is a gas with better heat transfer..(?) ANyhow its cheaper, and guaranteed to work and not break anything....

I'm gonna try it, I just never did A/C before and am ...


Do I need to evac at a facility of some sort??? I guess the rest of the disassembly I will learn along the way.. Do I really need to replace the drier? (why?)


Thanks..
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  #10  
Old 05-05-2007, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbardolv View Post
From what I read its cools 30% more than R-12 because it is a gas with better heat transfer..(?) ANyhow its cheaper, and guaranteed to work and not break anything....

I'm gonna try it, I just never did A/C before and am ...


Do I need to evac at a facility of some sort??? I guess the rest of the disassembly I will learn along the way.. Do I really need to replace the drier? (why?)


Thanks..
You can get a vacuum pump driven by an air compressor from Harbor Freight. Not as good as going to an AC specialist but it worked well enough on my TD (got 40F at the center vents after charge).

As for drier, no idea why other than contamination and fatigue. Not that expensive so why not?
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  #11  
Old 05-05-2007, 01:47 PM
LostWages,Nv Grease BURN!
 
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fuey

Oh Fuey.. I have no comressor yet...... (crappy economy)

So how much $ am I looking at, at some A/C place? I guess they just evac the gas and I disassemble and oil things down after that correct?
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  #12  
Old 05-05-2007, 01:51 PM
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If the system has been open, you need a new filter/dryer even if staying with R-12.

You evacuate the system to remove air; oxygen and especially moisture. To do this effectively one often lets it vacuum overnight, will help to boil out any remaining moisture in the system. Then you recharge with coolant, don't let air in first. If disassembling, draining oil etc., you would do all of that before evacuating the system.
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2007, 02:24 PM
LostWages,Nv Grease BURN!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
If the system has been open, you need a new filter/dryer even if staying with R-12.

You evacuate the system to remove air; oxygen and especially moisture. To do this effectively one often lets it vacuum overnight, will help to boil out any remaining moisture in the system. Then you recharge with coolant, don't let air in first. If disassembling, draining oil etc., you would do all of that before evacuating the system.

Hey Jeff,

THanks for the post.. What about the existing R-12 in the system? will it not leak out when I disassemble?

Thanks!
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2007, 04:48 PM
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One product is Duracool. I have used it for 5 years and have had great results. I have a Porsche shop using it and he swears by it because it works well in small, marginal systems. An independant Mercedes shop contacted me about it and they now use it in the older cars.
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2007, 06:13 PM
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WARNING


Following is a list of 18 states that have passed a law prohibiting the sale of flammable refrigerants (hydrocarbons or
HC's) for use in mobile air conditioning systems.

Arkansas, Arizona, Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Iowa, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Maryland, Nebraska, North Dakota,
Oklahoma, Texas, Utah, Virginia, Washington, Wisconsin, District of Columbia .




.

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