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  #1  
Old 05-06-2007, 10:47 PM
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car is off, battery light is ON

whats up with this new problem
went to start the car 83 300sd today
no juice so charged the battery
it starts fine but battery light is ON
and stays on after the motor is OFF
checked for a door cracked open or other lights on
thats not happening
why is the battery light on???

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  #2  
Old 05-06-2007, 10:48 PM
henrydupont
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fried alternator
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  #3  
Old 05-07-2007, 12:21 AM
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great!!!

any one found a made in USA UNIT THAT FITS???
AS THEY ARE ABOUT 1/4 THE COST FOR MORE OUTPUT!!!!
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  #4  
Old 05-07-2007, 12:42 AM
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There's a bridged diode in the alternator. Take it to the local electrical repair shop.
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  #5  
Old 05-07-2007, 08:47 AM
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Made in the USA? That probably eliminates Chrysler, Ford, and GM. Toyota might make their own here LOL!



Quote:
Originally Posted by nota View Post
great!!!

any one found a made in USA UNIT THAT FITS???
AS THEY ARE ABOUT 1/4 THE COST FOR MORE OUTPUT!!!!
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  #6  
Old 05-08-2007, 12:14 AM
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I agree with regulator diodes, failed letting it backfeed itself to dead. Should be a replaceable part. Pending the mileage on it, you might be well off to just get an alternator rebuild kit (bearings, brushes, brush springs, regulator) and fix it up like new again, much cheaper option than a new or rebuilt.
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:16 AM
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I got a remanufactured, in USA, Bosch, so they said. Came with regulator, not the other thing, diode? $65.00 May only have needed new bearing, don't have facilities to work on it.
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Old 05-09-2007, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I got a remanufactured, in USA, Bosch, so they said. Came with regulator, not the other thing, diode? $65.00 May only have needed new bearing, don't have facilities to work on it.
The diodes should be an internal part of the regulator bridge rectifier is another way of saying 4 doides hooked up in a way to convert ac to dc voltage, and there is some small electronics involved for maintaining a regulated voltage. Old style early cars had external relay type regulators (way back when) later they had solid state regulators, still externally mounted, and the rectifying diodes were large plug looking things in the rear of the alternator. Modern units are completely contained within the alternator, and usually resemble a ceramic block of sorts with a heat sink built into it inside the alt, and rectifying/regulation are all performed together in the same unit.
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  #9  
Old 05-09-2007, 09:09 AM
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It's the backout diode - CHEAP FIX

Diodes are easy to check. You will read either continuity or no continuity. Now reverse the wires to your meter - you MUST read the OPPOSITE of what you just read. If you read continuity before, now you must see no continuity. Any one of the diodes that reads the same both ways is bad. Continuity - continuity means the diode is shorted, no continuity - no continuity means it is open. Replace as needed.

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Last edited by TX76513; 05-09-2007 at 09:31 AM.
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