Guide Rod Mount Bushing Replacement
 

Hello All,

'83 300SD 156K

With the help of those on this forum I was able to replace shocks, springs, and rubber parts at the back end of the car. Thank you! Now on to the front.

I am going to replace the front shocks, steering dampner, and maybe the lower ball joints since the rubber boots have been torn. Now for the question.

The PO already has replaced the guide rod mounts but for some reason only replaced the rear bushing in the guide rod mount carrier. The front bushing is old and should be replaced. How do I do this? Do I have to treat this like renewing the guide rod bushing? :o

Thanks!

To get those bushing out you need to remove the front spring and then the perch, Since you are going to do the lower ball joints that will br the time to do them. While you are at it change out upper and lower control arm bushings, sway bar mounts and bushings if they haven't been done. Look at schematics and do searches on front end rebuilds, replace everything so you won't have to go back in there. There really isn't that much but time consuming to do. Good luck and use the search function.:D

Thanks - I thought that might be the case but wanted to check before starting and it means I have to get the spring compressor.

why does everybody get a spring compressor to remove the front springs?
I would think, that if the car is raised high enough, and supported well, a floorjack under the lower control arm would have enough travel to safely remove the spring. only thing I can see that would get in the way would be the shock.
please explain why this would not work.
John

I always used the "floor jack" method on my old GM cars. Worked well, after the front was raised up and on stands during ball joint replacement. Just gotta remember to put the jack under the LCA before separating the ball joints...

Use the proper spring compressor
 

These MBZ diesels have very heavy front ends, and very beefy front coil springs....one false move, and you could be toast. It is not worth it to not take this hazard seriously. THere is not enough play to release tension on the spring when fully jacked up....someone mentioned that the shock is the only thing in the way....yes, in fact that is one of the functions of the shock. If you undo the shock, and try to use a jack to lower the spring that way, the angle of the spring pan become farther from perpendicular to the spring....at some point the spring can kick out. Dont do it.

Regards,

Mark

I don't think the lower control arm on a W126 has enough downward travel (with the shock removed) to allow for the spring to be even free of tension.

I had to compress the spring
 

when I did my front end work - I had to compress the springs - pics in the link:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=179284&highlight=bodyart27

Get the right spring compresser and be done with it. The time/ aggravation you save by having the right tool will help out more than you know. You will have enough aggravation working on the front end to make up for it. Try changing the sway bar mounts without removing the fuse box, mc, booster etc. Set aside a weekend and start changing out the components. Have fun.

well, I think I will try it. I will be very safe, I think I will rig a chain through it, just to have something to keep it from jumping out at me.
John

Suspension Bearing Bracket guide rod mount replacement
on the 1985 300SD
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRodMount


Guide Rod, Lower Control Arm Bushing and Eccentric Pin Replacement
on the 1985 300SD
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRod



Have a great day.

Ahhh, it's much more complicated than on american cars... next tool to buy Spring compressor.
I will NOT build my own Spring compressor!!! MAN you guys that do scare me!
John

The one from autozoo won't fit either for the fronts. The right tool really works perfect, in and out in no time. I don't know about the chain trick. good luck.