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  #1  
Old 05-17-2007, 12:57 PM
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Question I pulled the injectors...

...and four of them look -well- old, like they had 275k miles on them, but the fifth (#1 cylinder) scared me: it was covered in engine oil Any ideas, comments, suggestions? BTW, the car starts and runs like crap, that's the reason why I pulled the injectors.

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  #2  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:00 PM
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valve adjustment?
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
valve adjustment?
...done 15k miles ago.
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  #4  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:17 PM
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Might possibly be a bad/missing valve stem seal letting oil into that cyl, or possibly bad rings, a compression test will tell the tale on the rings.
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  #5  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang_man298 View Post
Might possibly be a bad/missing valve stem seal letting oil into that cyl, or possibly bad rings, a compression test will tell the tale on the rings.
I was hoping NOT to hear anything like that, because that's going to be expensive and time consuming, AGAIN.
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:30 PM
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12K it's needed
John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:40 PM
Gene
 
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Set valves and do a compression check. DO the valve stems look crudded up in that cyl? ( assuming you have the intake off).
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  #8  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 427L88 View Post
Set valves and do a compression check. DO the valve stems look crudded up in that cyl? ( assuming you have the intake off).
Everything is still in place, I only pulled the injectors to have them checked. Next will be a compression test (before I have the injectors tested), I just don't have a compression tester and I don't know yet where to borrow one. I kinda expect one cylinder to be bad, the way it ran lately. Next question would be, if the compression is bad in this specific cylinder and satisfying in all others, is that oil covered injector a good or a bad sign?
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  #9  
Old 05-17-2007, 01:58 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93644
not a fantastic kit, but it works and everything you need to test a MB motor compression is there.
if you have a local store, they run sales on them
I got mine for 18.00
John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #10  
Old 05-17-2007, 02:02 PM
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93644

Buy the compression tester. It's pretty cheap, even with shipping.

Dave
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  #11  
Old 05-17-2007, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbus View Post
...and four of them look -well- old, like they had 275k miles on them, but the fifth (#1 cylinder) scared me: it was covered in engine oil Any ideas, comments, suggestions? BTW, the car starts and runs like crap, that's the reason why I pulled the injectors.
Ive seen the 'engine-oil' soaked injectors many times....

DONT get too alarmed, its probably engine-oil thats wormed its way down the threads, having been spilled during top-up many moons ago (Especially as it was nos.1 pot injector closest to the oil-filler...or diesel-fuel thats 'decomposed' over heat and time, having leaked from the nozzle/body seal.

IF it doesnt use oil that much, and the comp pressures are good, just have the injectors fully serviced with new nozzles and forget you ever saw oily injectors
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  #12  
Old 05-17-2007, 02:12 PM
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OK, I'll buy it, tomorrow is payday...

Thanks, Alastair, for giving me hope. Technically this could be a possibility, well, we'll see what the compression test shows. I'll keep you updated.
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2007, 07:23 PM
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Hows the chain stretch? What I do is bump the IP toward the block (advance) just a skosh. Mark across where the pump and block mate so you can move it back if theres no improvement. This will compensate for some chain wear but start thinking about changing it if its more than 5 or 6 degrees. This is just a stop-gap thing to make her run a littel better if the chains a little too long
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  #14  
Old 05-18-2007, 12:04 AM
Gene
 
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I paid the MBZ dealer $200 to check IP timing ( @14 - perfect), and to flush the brake fluid which was dark. Car had recent new brakes too, go figure. Had to pass NJ inspection I guess. Anyway, the "timing light" was like $400, or $600, some riduclous sum ( although I paid the guys $95 to time it - ouch). I'll learn how to drip time it, one day, but if the new injectors dont help, you might consider taking it to someone with a A/B light and paying them.

I wasnt going to "reckon" the timing, I needed to know where it was to give me an indication of chain stretch/wear.

That compression tester screw into the injector hole or glow plug?

Should've checked compression when I had the Injs out for new nozzles. ( hey, my German farmer injector guy said he could get the real deal German nozzles for less than I paid for the miIndia ones., about $35 at the dealer.)And I should have dumped some Purge right down the holes, let it sit overnight, and then "cranked it out" as TAllison said to do in one post of his. Mine has a bad prechamber, I think. It might have helped. Was worried about washing crap down the cylinder walls and then scoring them. Be asking the German farmer what he'd do. Man seemed fastidious enough and very knowledgable, even though he wasnt a MBZ or Bosch guy. Car runs great. Except for cold sart smoke and knock, which fresh inj's didnt cure.

Last edited by WINGAS; 05-18-2007 at 12:15 AM.
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  #15  
Old 05-18-2007, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
Hows the chain stretch? What I do is bump the IP toward the block (advance) just a skosh. Mark across where the pump and block mate so you can move it back if theres no improvement. This will compensate for some chain wear but start thinking about changing it if its more than 5 or 6 degrees. This is just a stop-gap thing to make her run a littel better if the chains a little too long
I had a major service done at 260k miles, new chain, valves adjusted, etc. It ran pretty good for a while, but as soon as it got cold that same old crap started again: no start below 30F w/o block heater even with new glow plugs and after-glow relay. I played with the IP and got it running nicely again, but now fuel consumption became outragous (less than 20mpg!) so now I'm going to do it right. IP timing with drip method, injectors checked and, while I'm at it, do a compression test. I just ordered the tester...

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