WelI noticed the culprit to the driver side engine mount deteriorating... Looks like diesel leaking down on it from the old purge pump..

I tightened her down on top and on bottom .. She still leaks. Has anyone tried putting an o-ring under the button head and tihtening back up??
I just get fuel on a pump procedure , no air, so far....


Cheers!

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Thank you for all the help guys!

"Old Gretchen" <--1983 300SD w126 cali. emissions (so it says on wdw sticker)
LIght metallic blue with dark blue interior. Odo stuck at 160,500 mi.

www.handydo.joolo.com

On the 240 I bought, it was leaking also. I decided to replace with a black one. The PO had wrapped teflon tape around the threads in an attempt to stop leak, didn't work. He also was using bio-diesel. I'm convinced that destroyed internal parts of primer. All the info I've read on the subject, mentions to use old style if using bio. I do not on any the MBZ (five) I've owned. Have replaced all with the new black style, with copper crush ring, no problems since. I pulled the one, minus crush ring, out of my current basket case. New they run about $20.00.

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83 SD

84 CD

Yes I have heard the same thing from this furom.. I will be running WVO though so I am stuck with th eold style primer..

As an update, I have tried my suspicions by installing a nice fat o-ring under the mushroom head and just tightened her down.. No more leakies.... (for now)

I will change her out later, but good to know its a quick fix. (maybe preventative maintenance to preserving the engine mount...(?)


Cheers!

__________________
Thank you for all the help guys!

"Old Gretchen" <--1983 300SD w126 cali. emissions (so it says on wdw sticker)
LIght metallic blue with dark blue interior. Odo stuck at 160,500 mi.

www.handydo.joolo.com

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/PrimerPump

easy fix

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Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

Glad to hear you've got the leak under control. Just keep an eye on it, replace when necessary. I don't think WVO will give you problems. Other opinions please. One of the ingredients in BIO is corrosive to rubber, hence the difficulties.

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83 SD

84 CD

I have to second the copper washer. If it's new, and you crank the pump down hard enough, it will hold.

What is the theory behind the old style pump for biodiesel / WVO? Is the BOSCH upgrade supposed to leak for some reason (as if the original style didn't).

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1982 300CD Petrol/Black Leather

Lye of some sort is mixed in with soybean oil to produce BIO, this is the corrosive element that slowly eats rubber, which is why some folks switch all rubber lines over to viton, or whatever it's called. The fella that sold me the 240 told me that, I also looked up how to make my own, maybe at Wikipedia, they had the instructions, get a hot water heater tank, connect a mixing pump, add x amount of lye to soybean oil, heat to x temp, etc. Using WVO should not give you any problems, as there are no corrosive properties involved, it was used to cook food, so it should be okay. It has to be heated to facilitate burning in an engine, and you need a separate tank with insulated fuel lines, running to engine, and some folks add an aux. pump too. I understand you start and shut off engine on diesel, so you'll need some sort of switching mechanism. BIO does not, you just pump it into your existing tank, which is fine, except for the eating rubber part. Newer vehicles are fitted at the factory with compatible fuel lines. I'd still like others to chime in. ************** recommends against using the black pumps with BIO, don't know about WVO.

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83 SD

84 CD