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  #1  
Old 05-21-2007, 01:53 PM
iamamanc
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Timing Chain OM606 non turbo

Hi
Got most of the top and front stripped today, just need to take the crank pulley off to get the chain tensioner sliding rail out. I was wondering if anyone knows how to get No 65 (pin) out that belongs to the chain tensioner sliding rail (No 53 in the drawing linked to below) I guess it will be behind the crank pulley somewhere



and will I need a new one when replacing it

Cheers
Adrian


Last edited by iamamanc; 05-21-2007 at 01:59 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-21-2007, 02:18 PM
vstech's Avatar
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you may not even need to remove it.
the tensioner may just slide off it.
NO experience here, just postulating.
John
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  #3  
Old 05-21-2007, 03:06 PM
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Adrian,

What job are you doing? It sounds like you're changing the chain *and* the sprockets. Are the sprockets so badly worn?

Anyhow - I have used M6 studding, or all-thread and a socket and some washers to pull these guide pins out. I found that without the proper MB slide hammer, there isn't enough clearance to use much else. However, I didn't take the radiator out.

Cheers,

George
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  #4  
Old 05-21-2007, 04:55 PM
iamamanc
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Hi Guys
I thought about all-thread, I will give that a go first

I'm replacing the chain, chain tensioner and the tensioner sliding rail. I haven't got the chain off yet so a closer inspection of the sprockets will follow.
I got the injectors refurbed last week and although the performance/torque seems to have improved the bugger has started nailing. So to my way of thinking - if the injectors are set back to factory with no compession leak then maybe the timing is a little out, ie fuel pump causing the nailing due to a bit of retarded timing which could be down to chain stretch.
I have no history with the car and the mileage is defo not genuine, so for a couple of hundred pounds I can set my mind at rest by sorting the chain and timing at the same time.
Once the new chain is on then I can check the pump, although I can't see a reason why the pump would be out unless someone messed with it before. At the most a bit of fine tuning should sort it.
Very happy to see just how clean the engine was once I got the valve cover off the cams look in really good nick. There is quite a bit of sideways movement on the chain though. Oooooo can't wait to get it back together agian.

Vstech - Are you a scouser. All those cars seems to indicate a very active nocturnal life armed with a mask, a big bunch of keys and/or a crowbar.
Anyway cheers guys

Adrian
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  #5  
Old 05-21-2007, 05:57 PM
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Adrian,

If you find the pin stubborn, a bit of heat on the casing will help, because it's a steel pin held in an alloy casing.

If you take the upper sprocket off, you can also change out the upper guide rail and its two guide pins. There's just enough room to get it past, with the loose chain held towards the back of the void.

Mine also has some front/rear slop in the chain, but I'm not too worried about that. I would be more concerned if the teeth on the sprocket were beginning to look hooked rather than symmetric.

Re-priming the tensioner is a bit of a faff. You need to almost submerge the thing, and then pump it in and out, allowing it to suck up the oil. I used an old bean tin to holf the oil, and a valve spring compressor to pump the tensioner. If you don't get this right, you won't have enough tension when you come to start up.

I found big problems with my OM606, as reported in a previous thread on here. Allegedly, mine has 127,000 miles on it. I found the inlet valve seats on cylinders 5 and 6 had sunk - seriously sunk into the head. This was giving a serious compression leak while cold. The giveaway was that the inlet ports for these cylinders, instead of being oily from the crankcase breather, they were sooty from the leaking exhaust gas coming back up the inlet port.

Cheers,

George
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  #6  
Old 05-21-2007, 08:04 PM
iamamanc
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Cheers George
I was told the upper guide rail should be ok as it doesn't really take any strain but I will have a look when the chain is off.
I (my mate) cranked the engine slowly by hand and everything looked ship shape as far as the valves and cams are concerned.
Apro pro chain tensioner, the Merc mechanic who lends me the tools told me not to bother priming the tensioner, I asked him if he was taking the piss and he said he had never done it, just screw it in correctly and fire it up. The spring will hold it until the oil pressure builds up on it's own - I don't know but he has been working on Mercs for donkey's years.

The problem with mine is I'm not sure how many miles are on it but it had been in part badly neglected. Strange because it has had a total respray which seems to be a quality job plus the seat bolster has been repaired with Merc cloth.
Anyway when the chain is done that should be it.
Since Christmas I've done the engine and trany mounts, had the trany rebuilt, refurbed the injectors, sorted the ABS, sorted various vacuum leaks, changed both fuel filters and a few other things such as dash bulbs and un-seized the sunroof. All in all it has cost about 3 grand including the purchase but touch wood it should be good for the next few years now. Nice cars though eh!!

Cheers
Adrian
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  #7  
Old 05-22-2007, 12:26 PM
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Look after it and it should last a lot more than a few years mate

Mine was pretty neglected, I'd say welding glow plug no.2 into the head is a good sign of that
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  #8  
Old 05-22-2007, 09:18 PM
iamamanc
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Originally Posted by Parrot of Doom View Post
Look after it and it should last a lot more than a few years mate

Mine was pretty neglected, I'd say welding glow plug no.2 into the head is a good sign of that

aint it the stupid things that really brass you off. Like not putting the washer behind the belt tensioner so the retaining bolt keeps working loose and by doing so jams the fan and screws the fan clutch. (another £40 from Dronsfields)
Some people are just plebs (that's another one for Vstech)
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  #9  
Old 05-23-2007, 01:09 PM
iamamanc
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Got the chain done today.
The new tensioner installed fine. I didn't get the tensioner guide rail out so I couldn't renew but on close inspection it looked fine.
After checking before and after it seems the new chain has corrected the timing by ca 6 degrees. Adjusted the fuel pump a touch using the fine tuning hex bot on the top of the pump assisted by that plunger tool thingy, bang on 14degrees.

Started her up. After a couple of farts it settled down and was sooooo quiet. Once running temp was achieved there was a spasmodic nailing but nothing like it was before, the injectors were set at 6 lbs above mid spec and I have been assured that the springs will give and bed in thus nailing the nailing.
I then took her for a spin, up and down the longest hills around and believe me it was as if something was pushing me, what a difference. I thought the response and pull was good after the injector refurb - it's a hell of a lot better now. Hopefully the mileage should be sorted as well - BUT it's such good fun flooring it especially now

Injector refurb £150
Timing Chain £87
Chain Tensioner £49

Peace of mind and a flying machine - Priceless

Cheers
Adrian

Last edited by iamamanc; 05-23-2007 at 01:15 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-23-2007, 01:17 PM
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iamamanc,

In the UK, is a NA OM606 a 1996-1997? What mileage?

Thanks,
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  #11  
Old 05-23-2007, 01:26 PM
iamamanc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBen View Post
iamamanc,

In the UK, is a NA OM606 a 1996-1997? What mileage?

Thanks,
Mine is a 1994 W124
Mileage - your guess is as good as mine. Rough guess 150 to 200K
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2007, 02:22 PM
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What's the recommended change interval for the chain on an OM606?
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  #13  
Old 05-23-2007, 06:11 PM
iamamanc
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Hi
How long is a piece of string?
They say that if you have a service history that shows the car was looked after, well maintained with quality oil that was changed hot and frequently, the sky's the limit.
Some people say that the chain and the OM606 have issues regardless. The only real way to be sure is to have it checked by doing the 2mm valve lift measure, to which there are many links on this forum.

Cheers
Adrian
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2007, 04:20 AM
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Manc, give us pictures! Or I'll send a scouser around.
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:40 AM
iamamanc
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Please Mr. Parrot, not the Scousers

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=897

Here's a couple of pics - The beast in all her glory with her Sunday best shoes on

BTW Parrot I took the tensioner guide rail back to Merc and asked for a credit note. He said he was sorry but seeing as they had only sold one in the last 3 years, he couldn't do it (but I do get a 15% disscount). One tensioner guide rail in 3 years, does that tell a story or what.

When Liverpool bought Pennant from Arsenal, wasn't he wearing a tag - There ya go Vstech, the Scousers even have footballers that are tagged!!!


Last edited by iamamanc; 05-24-2007 at 10:54 AM.
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