1983 300SD

Ok, I have done a bit of research on this (ie: read every post about it). Can someone explain to me why some people say you need to compress the spring, and other people say you don't?

When I look at this DIY article:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRodMount

The word "spring" is not even mentioned in the whole article.

Also, is removing the Suspension Bearing Bracket absolutely necessary to get the guide rod mount out? I remember seeing someone mentioning that they did it without removing the bracket, not knowing you were supposed to remove the bracket.

Last thing -- I have asked about this in another post, but only got one opinion about it (no offense to the one opinion giver, thanks). I am relatively new to DIY -- just a few simple things - alternator, oil pan gasket, oil changes, fuel filters, glow plugs. Is this something out of my reach?

The article by whunter says even he doesn't like doing the job with a full shop (and obviously a lot of experience).

Can anyone who's had a shop do it tell me what it cost you?

Thanks

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I did the guide bushings on my 420 SEL and one of the 240Ds. Also the suspension bearing brackets on the 420SEL. I for one can see where removing the spring and undoing the lower control arm would make the job ALOT easier. But it is not necessary. I don't recall though if taking the suspension bearing bracket off was necessary.

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No matter how many times you explain it to me, I'm still right.....Surf-n-Turf

I just completed removal & installation of the suspension guide rod mount and the bushings in the bearing bracket on my 126. I can tell you that to service the bracket properly, you will need to remove the bracket from the chassis.IMHO The metal band around the guide rod mount " welds" itself to the bearing bracket,and in my case required extensive cleaning and sanding to extract the worn rusted band from inside the bracket. Removal of the suspension guide rod mount also required considerable persuasion with a large hammer to make it come loose. With the bracket out I was able to service this need safely.You didn't ask but I cant imagine how you would go about pressing this guide rod mount into the bracket with it still bolted to your chassis. In response to your question regarding spring removal: My springs are removed because I am doing a lot more work on the suspension than just the suspension guide rod. Seems to me it might be pretty difficult to accomplish with the springs still on the car because I had to move the control arm around (up & down)alot to get the guide rod reinstalled properly to the guide rod mount and in the slot where it mounts to the control arm. Hope this helps.

I have done this job on several cars. There are two ways to replace the guide rod mount. One way is leaving the bracket on the car, but this requires the removal of the spring so you can take the guide rod out. The easier way is to remove the bracket and leave the guide rod in the car. Any time I have to take a spring out I consider it "the hard way" because of the stress of possibly getting KILLED by the spring if something goes wrong. Does this help explain why you get different answers to the same question?

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

I agree. I did the job without removing the spring. I did have access to a lift, and that certainly made things easier, however, it could be done without one. I'm fortunate in that my car has lived a largely garaged and salt-free existence, so there weren't any rust issues to deal with. The whole job, including pressing in new bushings for both sides, probably took me 4-5 hours taking my time.

All of the tasks you named would be considered pretty basic diy, and well within your capability if you can do the guide rod mounts. I would add valve adjustment and cleaning your banjo bolt to your list if you haven't all ready done them.

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Tjohn

82 300 SD
77 450 SL (gone)

I agree that it wasn't terrible difficult once everything was in place and I had the tools, parts, and information gathered as to how to make it happen. I ended up using a press for the new installation.

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Cliff D.
Central Illinois
1987 300SDL 200K
1984 300D Turbo 245K

Thanks for the input guys. That clears it up about the taking off springs vs. not.

From what I hear and am reading here, the main issue/potentially hardest part is getting the rusted bolts off in order to get the bracket off (and in my case, yes, unfortunately, there is some rusty bolts to deal with).

For me, taking the spring off is not going to happen, so guess I will be taking the bracket off.

Ah, I meant the other way around... that was a list of things I have already done I was asking comparatively, the difficulty of this project versus those simple things, but thanks for the additional tips...

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