Fuel Filter change on a 606.91
 

I apologize for the noob question in advance. I am new to diesel and have zero(0) experience with maintenance on this type of engine. The car is new to me and I would like to change filters and fluids for a fresh start. I have STFA and have been un-able to find any procedure for changing the fuel filter.

I was able to find a bit of info such as park the car on an incline, tail end down, and pre-load filter after it is place to be screwed on. There was also information about removing fuel lines, but I am not sure which.

Any help on this simple task would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

The 6th digit in your engine type is kind of important to this question as things differ between 910's and 912's but, basically, you loosen the bolt (or stop button) on top of the fuel filter and then grab the filter and spin it off.

Do not park rear down when attemping to re-prime, rather park nose down so gravity helps get fuel from the tank to the engine.

Do prefill the filter.

606.910 is in the W124 ('95), it will have a stop button on top of the filter housing.
606.912 and .962 are in the W210 ('96-'99), they only have a bolt which you have to loosen.
Fill the new filter with clean diesel, tighten the bolt until snug, and crank the engine, flooring the gas pedal. The bolt does not have to be oriented in any particular direction. Also, don't forget to replace the pre-filter (to the left of the main filter) and the pre-filter O-ring.

It is 0. This a 95 E300D.


Will fuel flow out of the filter housing pointing nose down?

Quick answer is NO; but suppose is relative to how steep the hill is???:rolleyes:

Fuel is drawn up to the filter by vacuum; ~75% of htat fuel is then returned to the tank via the return line. If it leaks it will not be much; you will prob spill more when removing the orig fuel filter.

If you are doing filters and the history is unknown to you do the pre-filter too. It is on the left most upper corner of the filter hosuing as you face it. Is about as big as your finger and has a 26mm dia o-ring beneath its rim that should also be replaced. The oring is purchased separately.

Be gentle on your stop button bolt. It also has orings (2) and should not be cranked down super tight. Just spin the filter on hand tight and give the bolt about 1 turn.

I checked out the stop button. It is completely loosened. It should be all the way tightened? So is there any need to put a wrench to the bolt that button shaft is connected to?

Mine doesnt have that stop button and I've not laid hands on one personally.

It should not need to be super tight as the entire fuel system to that point is very low pressure. You only need to get it snugged up sufficiently to seal the fuel filters o-ring to the underside of the filter housing; similar to an old spin on oil filter.

So it's the bolt that needs to be loosened, not the button/knob?

Yes. Yours is like #23 (all 95's & some early 96's) and all 97-99's are like #20.

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=124131&M=606%2E910&GA=722%2E435&GM=717%2E433&CT=M&cat=19T&SID=07&SGR=120&SGN=04

Thank you for your help TMAllison. I wanted to be sure I understood how this is done before starting. I would have found at least a couple of ways not to do it right and would have been stuck up a creek. Th filter was changed without a problem. Once I have the o-ring for the pre filter, that will go in.

Parts list for 95 e300 fuel filters and O-rings orings
 

This is what I came up with at startekinfo/epc:

601 997 01 48 - seal ring prefilter
601 092 01 05 - filter element prefilter
009 997 92 48 - seal ring
009 997 81 48 - seal ring
601-090 15 52 - Filter (optional with 601 090 14 52)
601 090 14 52 - Filter (parts kit), Fuel Filter

Do I need both of the last two items? I don't understand how throughout the site some of the items are assigned qualifying information like that...

I'd really like to get these locally in order to fix this ASAP...if I can't then it should be whoever has a drop ship closest to me. Does Fastlane drop ship?

You're not telling us what your issue is....if you have leak in or around the filter housing then a new pre-filter oring is in order. If you have the kill switch button rather than the bolt holding your main filter to the housing you should also get the two orings that go on it too.

If the other fuel lines are leaking you can replace the entire line (comes with new orings) or you can replace only the orings if you can find the right metric sizes somewhere. Search my name and "OM606.962 oring sizes" for the correct count/sizes. May not be the exact count your engine usues will be close to the same.

Thanks a bunch Terry...I was looking to replace the O-rings I accidentally crushed by tightening the knob on top of the fuel filter too tightly.

I just spoke with Roy. He suggested I get #29, 26, 14 and 11 from the dealer forthwith. I'm calling them right now to see if they are in stock and driving straight over.

I described what the lines look like, he informed of what they are supposed to look like and he pointed me to the running replacement of one of the fuel lines with a banjo bolt. I ordered the kit listed here: http://www.tiny.cc/kKgAD (just immediately click on the link if you are redirected to the tiny url page, then the Manifold Gasket and Crankcase Breather Pipe kit (that is unique to my car) listed here: http://www.tiny.cc/1tGuf

He also clued me in to the old VW fuel filter inline with the stop engine valve...I remember reading about that a while back and wanting to do it...now I will.

Roy gave me a rundown of the what the repair should entail and took care to try to get the order out in time to drop ship from the CA location today. Looks like I'm cleaning my manifold and replacing fuel lines in the next few days...hope I remember everything he told me!
Thanks for the value added service Roy!