W126 guide rod bushing... need advice.
 

I need new guide rod bushings.

I took my SD to a local indie who has done a bit of work on these old diesels.

The "retaining tab" or whatever you call it on the DS is broken off (see open rectangular hole in pic 1, and see pic 2 for example of the other side with retaining tab still in place). He says he is going to have to cut into the frame around that rectangular hole to be able to get a wrench in there in order to get the bolt out and the bracket off, and then weld the piece back in. Does that make sense? Is there any other way around this?

Thanks

whiew! that sure is a lot of rust... I would not want to drive a car that had the frame cut up. are there any better examples of 126 vehicles in your area? My parts car has less rust in that area.

From what he described, he would be cutting into the flat part around the rectangular hole, so to me, if he put it back in place, it doesn't seem it would cause any structural problems.

As for other examples... I just can't do it. This is my car and I have to live with it for now. I can't bother with buying and selling cars all the time right now.

Rod Bushing
 

I think i would order a new bolt and nut and use a air saw that has a small
metal cutting blade and cut the pieces out harber freight sell these saw's and blades
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/00100-00199/00113.gif

I think i would order a new bolt and nut and use a air saw that has a small
metal cutting blade and cut the pieces out harber freight sell these saw's and blades


Las 769 are you talking about using the cut off saw on the bushing/bolt assembly and not cutting into the frame? I cut these bushing easily with a sawz all equipped with a metal blade. I agree I wouldn't cut into frame. Cutting bushing would then allow for easy extraction of bolt and tab.

cutting
 

yes cut the bolt not the frame

I don't quite understand...

so are you saying you would cut away the rubber part (bushing?), which the bolt is going through so that the bolt would be "available" and easy to cut through?

One question about that, however, is how would that make it any easier to get at the broken off tab inside of the frame? Wouldn't the bolt still be threaded into that tab inside? I guess I don't know exactly what the bolt is threaded through, other than the tab inside.

I have an appointment to bring this in next week to have the job done, so I'd like to talk to the mechanic some more about this before then, in case we need to order more parts.

Thanks

Don't Cut The Bolt!!!!!
 

I had the "wings" break off on one of my guide rod mounts so I opened the opening enough to get an open end wrench in there to hold the square nut. If you cut the bolt you will not be able to remove the end from the frame. Use some PB type stuff to loosen the rust on the bolt and nut, then loosen with the wrenches. Really man think before you cut!!

Yes, I think those "wings" are the same thing I am referring to as "tabs" right? That is the problem with mine (that they broke off), and I think what you are saying you did is exactly what the mechanic is suggesting doing, if I understand correctly.

Are you saying that it is necessary to do this in order to get at it?

I am wondering, to the people who suggested cutting the bolt, have you done this, or is it just a guess at something that might work?

I would tend to agree with crashone. The guide rod mount kit comes with a new "tabbed" nut.http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=23K00S4YN23W06EQVC&year=1983&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=L&part=Guide+Rod+Mount+Kit If you can get a wrench in there or maybe some of those needle nose vise-grips. One thing for sure, use lots of frequent doses of PB Blaster. Once you get it apart, is sure would be a good time to do some extensive cleaning and rust treatment as this is an area that takes a lot of stress.

If you DIY, use a come-along to hold the bearing carrier in place and allow you to align things to re-bolt the assembly.

Yes you have to cut a little on each side of the opening to get a wrench in there. Take a look at it with a trouble light so you can see. You don't need to cut much, a little at a time. Keep soaking with PB and use a big breaker bar to loosen the bolt and nut. Good luck.

Put some PB on there asap and let it soak in. Cut away the captive nut's opening just enough to get a wrench on it. Hope it breaks loose.

When its all done, degrease the area and treat it with Rust Cure. All of the oil film must be gone for this stuff to work. Topcoat with paint, POR.

Might be a good time to look for rust at other areas of the chassis.

Beware! Uro ain't the only one...
 

I just had a new Lemforder captive nut "let loose" in the frame upon installation.

2.5 hours later I had it out and reused the original 30 yr old part. I was fortunate that I was able to get it loose by wedging a screwdriver against the flat.

I'm pretty frustrated with CRAP parts these days. Yesterday I had to machine 100 thousands of an inch off of a Karlyn upper control arm inner bushing as it wouldn't even fit in the chassis.

Wow! Pics of the carnage?

Dealer parts for me from now on. This is crap.