Suddenly leaking a lot of oil from air filter housing - Help!!! - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimmyL · #61 06-15-2007, 01:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slarson80

I would think that at least you will need to remove the fan shroud and PS belt.

Can these fan shrouds be removed without removing the fan blade first?

slarson80 · #62 06-15-2007, 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Can these fan shrouds be removed without removing the fan blade first?

Well, let me think.... Maybe not, like I said I removed the radiator. OK, at least undo the clips, so you can jockey it around, out of the way?

JimmyL · #63 06-15-2007, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slarson80

Well let me think.... Maybe not, like I said I removed the radiator. OK, at least undo the clips, so you can jockey it around, of the way?

Dang Sonny, I was hoping you found a way to yank that stupid thing outta there......

slarson80 · #64 06-15-2007, 02:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Dang Sonny, I was hoping you found a way to yank that stupid thing outta there......

Yeah, well. See the last line line of my signature. I'm no expert. I just try to help out.

bhahl · #65 06-15-2007, 08:04 AM

When I replaced my diaphragm, I had to remove my radiator hoses, although this was with a w115. The flat head bolts are not all that easy to get to, either use one of those 90 degree screwdrivers or fit a bit into a 1/4 inch socket.

vstech · #66 06-15-2007, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Can these fan shrouds be removed without removing the fan blade first?

I think, IF you undo the tranny cooler lines from the bottom of the radiator, then remove the radiator, the shroud would come off with the fan still in place... but that don't sound like much less work...

kerry · #67 06-15-2007, 09:24 AM

On my 77 300d I only removed the fan and the shroud. I rebuilt the pump with everything else in place including the power steering belt.

Stevo · #68 06-15-2007, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Can these fan shrouds be removed without removing the fan blade first?

You can pull the radiator up and out if you remove the lower hose then the shroud will come out, all without removing the fan. As I remember you can even get the radiator out without removing the hose on the earlier 240s.

rino · #69 06-15-2007, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry edwards

Ordering by year should solve the correct pump issue. Allen wrenches I believe are required to remove the pump cover. Yes, replace the check valves. They just drop into place. Only two that I recall. The check valves are in the pump. I've never of heard of the pump having 3. I don't understand why it would need threel

Thanks so much for your help!!!

rino · #70 06-15-2007, 12:47 PM

Sonny, thank you very much for the detailed information you have given.
It is immensely appreciated.

Quote:

Originally Posted by slarson80

The earlier pump will have two vac lines attached to the front of the pump, the later one has only one vac line. I'm 99.9 % sure you have the earlier pump.

Yes, I have the one with two vac lines (earlier pump).

Quote:

Basically what you do is remove the flat head screws that hold the front plate on. Do so in a cross pattern, not in ring pattern. Then give it a pull and it will come off. underneath that there is a singular center bolt, I believe it is a hex head, I forget the size. Undo that, then the diaphragm, disks etc. pull straight out as one unit. Remove what ever you have to to give yourself enough room to work in there. When I did mine I could not find a step by step which is why I posted pix. I'm sorry I was too half a$$ed to do a full on pictorial. It really is pretty straight forward. If you decide to do this on your own feel free to PM me and I"ll give as much advice as I can.

Thank you very much!!!

Quote:

Oh but I can't really help ya with the check valves. Do a search you may come up with something on that.

Some edits: The two front main vac lines are held in place by a bracket with rubber gromits directly on the the lines. Just like the way the clear line is secured to the air cleaner. OK, the clear line is secured this way in two places, (air cleaner, bracket) . You will need to "pull them off the bracket". Be careful, at this age they are brittle. You don't want to crimp or crack them. Again this is pretty easy. You do not need to remove the two lines from the front plate. If they are off the bracket you should have enough slack to move that unit up and out of the way. Again, be careful.

I am a bit confused here... When you say, "You will need to 'pull them off the bracket,'" do you refer to the two sides of the clear line, or to both vac lines coming out of the vac pump? It puzzles me because you later say, "You do not need to remove the two lines from the front plate..." (I understand "the front plate" meaning the front of the vac pump, right? Or is the front plate something that comes off the vac pump while the two vac lines are still attached to it?) Please pardon my evident inexperience on this topic.

Another thing. Do I need to somehow get rid of the engine oil that might have gotten inside the clear line and vac system before running the engine, after replacing the diaphragm and valve checks?

Quote:

When I say remove the screws in a cross pattern, I mean if you start at the screw in the 1 o'clock position, the next one should be at the 7 o'clock position etc. Just break them free at first, then go around (cross pattern) and take them all out. replace them the same way.

I'm sure the 4 banger gives you more room to work than I had. I also like lots o' elbow room so maybe some of the stuff I removed was overkill. (under the hood in general). I would think that at least you will need to remove the fan shroud and PS belt. No exotic tools are needed for this operation, although I may have used vice grips (gently) when seperating the disks from the diaphragm. Hmm, that's all I can think of right now. Between the instructions that come with the kit, my pix, and this you should be able to do it in an hour or two. Good luck!

Thanks so much, again, for the great help you have provided!

rino · #71 06-15-2007, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slarson80

My brakes, locks and shut off were still working. Eventhough the diaphragm was leaking oil.

In my case, the brakes and shut off are still working, but not the locks (there may be a disconnected vac line somewhere, or maybe not...)

rino · #72 06-15-2007, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhahl

When I replaced my diaphragm, I had to remove my radiator hoses, although this was with a w115. The flat head bolts are not all that easy to get to, either use one of those 90 degree screwdrivers or fit a bit into a 1/4 inch socket.

Thanks! I think I'll try with a bit and 1/4 inch socket.

rino · #73 06-15-2007, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

You can pull the radiator up and out if you remove the lower hose then the shroud will come out, all without removing the fan. As I remember you can even get the radiator out without removing the hose on the earlier 240s.

Pardon the probably naive question, but when you remove the radiator, that implies emptying all of the fluid first, right?

kerry · #74 06-15-2007, 02:03 PM

i simply unbolted the flare nuts on the vacuum lines and left them hanging.

rino · #75 06-15-2007, 10:15 PM

Ordered the diaphragm plus valve repair kits this morning, they were shipped this afternoon. I now look forward to receiving them early this coming week and getting started working on it. Can't wait...

Thanks everybody, your great help has been highly appreciated!

Rino