Hey all,

This seems like my first major screwup in my young wrenching career.

Replacing subframe mounts and spring pads on Tex. I couldnt get the rear spring out after following whunters procedure in the wiki:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearShocksSprings

So I figured, 'hey, Ill just drop the diff, I need to anyways'. (For future reference, Roy said to just press down on the subframe using a 2x4 - itll give enough clearance and nothing will break.

Now I have my left subframe screw out, and the diff down. I realized my mistake when I jacked the diff back up and it wont line up. I have unbolted 2 points of a three point system under huge amounts of forse. I dont know how I am going to line this up.

I need some help on this one, I hope I havent really put myself in a pickle here.

Thanks for taking the time to help,
dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

What, exactly, won't line up?

The diff to the subframe or the subframe to the bushing and the body?

Im sorry for my obviously 'in the moment' orignal post.

What wont line up:

-the diff wont line up: the four bolt holes in the diff mount will not line up with the four holes in the bottom of the car.
-the subframe will not line up with its mount...maybe off by an inch. I dont even have the bushing in there right now and it wont line up.

I think I have changed too many variables at once and Im concerned its going to be tough to get it lined up again.

The goal I think is to get either one of these lined back up since then the other one will be lined up too.

does this make any sense?

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Your right I'm afraid. It's going to be a PITA to align again. This is only an opinion but, it might be easier to undo the other subframe mount and start with the diff. first. Then work on each subframe one at a time.

Even without dropping the differential, replacing that bolt in the subframe is a tough task.

Hopefully some more folks will chime in that have had this similar problem. About 3 or 4 floor jacks come in handy for this job.

__________________
---------------------------
No matter how many times you explain it to me, I'm still right.....Surf-n-Turf

Do you only have 1 side of the rear jacked up?

__________________
---------------------------
No matter how many times you explain it to me, I'm still right.....Surf-n-Turf

Yes. Only one side is on a jack stand.

whunter has told me that alinging the subframe once both bolts are out is extremely difficult. this was already after I had removed the diff, but even then i didnt think this alignment nightmare would apply to the diff.

looks like this is going to be a painful 'learning experience'. this car is never going to get on the road...

dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Try placing a jack near the forward part of the subframe where you removed the bolt and lift the subframe into position with the jack.

However, if the diff is removed and one of the subframe mount bolts is also removed, the subframe is probably twisted due to the spring force and the single subframe mount holding to the body.

If the jack won't work to get the subframe bolt back in place, you'll be forced to remove the springs and properly unload the subframe.

Binder straps (more than one may be needed) from the rear bumper to the sub-frame/trailing arm = pull it back.
You may also need a heel bar set to align the mount bolt holes, look at the attached picture.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Mr Hunter,

Is my strategy going to be to align the subframe mount first, or try to align the diff mount first.

Or does it not matter - whatever I can get I take?

I have one spring out - do I try to re-assemble with it out, and then go from there? Or would I be better off with it in for equal pressure on both sides of the subframe?

I never going to make this mistake again, thats for sure.

Many thanks,
dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Install the spring and shock = it will help align/stabilize the trailing arm.

Pull the sub frame back to attach the differential mount.

Follow the DIY from this point = you are back on track.

Thank you! Will give it a try tommorow. Got the ratchet straps and bar today and am ready to attack head on tomorrow.

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Would finding a spring compressor help out this situation a whole lot?

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

If you own the MB spring compressor, it makes this job easier.
Coil Spring Compressor# 924-0231

However I would not buy it just for this.
As my DIY shows, it is not needed, and I use the same procedure for W126 and 123 chassies.

Replacing the Rear Shocks & Springs
on the W126 1985 300SD
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126RearShocksSprings

roy,

I used your method for repositioning the rear suspension and it worked very well. Luckily, my dad volunteered to help out today and that made all of the difference.

We had a set of ratchet straps, 6 jackstands and two floor jacks ready to go. The drivers side rear was on a jack stand already.

The LR subframe and the diff were disconnected, so we dropped the exhaust onto a jackstand straight away. We needed to pull it back about 2" back and to the pasenger side. Took a ratchet strap and connected it to the tow loop on the RR side of the trunk, and looped it around the subframe just left of the diff. Next, placed a floor jack under the diff and another one under the subframe near the mount.

Jacked the subframe and diff up at the same time. Two cranks at a time and then just checked and checked some more. Started to put tension on the ratchet strap and pulled back a little. Cranked up on the floor jacks more.

Just kept up with this and very carefully observed our points of adjustment and kept slowly going up. Had to start over once. But the second try it really lined up fairly easily. The four diff bolts went right in.

Took about 2 hours to get it straightened out.

Rest of the day finished what I had started, new shocks, spring pads, and subframe mounts. Going to replace the diff mount itself next work day - hopefully the bolts are OK, im fairly sure they are. I hand tightened them in before torqing them, down.

So, lessons learned:
1.) Dont disconnect 2 suspension points at once. Ever.
2.) Think long and hard about disconnecting anything for 'more clearance' without thinking it through thoroughly or checking with those who know much more.

Thank you so much for all of the help. I thought I was really in a pickle here. I think I got lucky with how easily it re-lined up.

-dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Some of the things that I used to tell my assistant engineers.......read the directions or tech manual, look over (survey) the job, assure that you have all of the tools that may be necessary, read the tech manual (again)......and if it sounds as if the tech manual is telling you to do something that sounds as if it's the most difficult way to do the job......it's most probably the easiest way to facilitate a good repair on that piece of equipment......

don't cut corners, do the job correctly the first time......then you won't need to do it a second time.....

Don't force anything.......most equipment spare parts fit without persuasion....if it does not fit.....find out why.....

Don't tighten anything until all bolts are in.......

Use the torque wrench.....

clean up the piece of equipment before AND after you work on it.....

if something looks abnormally complicated.....take some pictures as you disassemble.....back then the Polaroid was a tool.....now, it can be done with your telephone....

clean up all parts, to include the nuts and bolts.....and look at the threads on your bolts......run a hex die over your bolts, and a tap thru your nuts.....if you haven't a set of re-thread taps use a plug tap......

Common sense prevails.....

and if you are still having problems, you aren't screwing your mouth up just right......

SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG