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#1
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84 300SD idles very rough...all of a sudden
So, driving home from work on Friday I had two things happen.....
First, the accelerator pedal broke which made it very difficult to drive. But add to that when I got home and backed into my spot, the car was idling very rough.....so rough that I thought it would die. My rear view mirror was rattling so bad that you couldn't tell if anything was behind you. This is happening with, or without, the AC running. Very very strange... Anyone got any idea why this would happen in the span of a 1 hour drive home? Once you give it some pedal and get to about 800 to 900 RPM, it smooths right out, but with a 550-600RPM idle, yipes. Any suggestions on correcting this, or where to look for problems, is greatly appreciated!
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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif |
#2
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IIRC the correct idle is 750-800 so their might be an issue
perhaps an injector is not firing correctly or not at all. fuel starving? cover the basics ya know |
#3
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You said the accelerator pedal broke. Please explain more about what part broke and how it broke. The two problems you describe may be related. You may have a linkage problem.
TimK
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EPA 609 & 608 HVAC Certified _________________________________________ 83' 300D Turbo - 300K + Miles 00' 1.9L TDI Beetle 85' 6.5L Turbo, GV-OD, GMC Suburban, 67' 2.5L Diesel NA - Land Rover Series IIA Here's what you do if it's so cold your diesel fuel gels. Smear some on some toast and stay inside until it warms up outside. |
#4
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My SD also has a case of the shakes. Someone here suggested cleaning vales, thinking IP valves. May try tomorrow, not too time consuming, yet have recently done a purge. Did not shake during purge, will have to check condition of lines near tank, if a problem there, would be a leak? All new lines, clamps and filters under hood.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#5
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binding throttle linkage?
too much resistance on the linkage = broken pedal and not a high enough rpm at idle?
I'd grease all the ball joints in the linkage and at the fire wall - worth a shot?
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~shell As of 2/2010: 2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0 13.6 @ 106mph 10K mi 1984 300SD 260K mi and going and going... 97 S600 46K miles 1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with) www.se-r.net |
#6
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Could the engine be loping? Check on your rack dampener bolt, it may have worn out or come out just a little bit, which would cause huge shakes.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#7
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Check the engine mounts...
How are your engine mounts and shocks? When I bought my car, the lower bolts on both engine shocks were missing. Believe me, that leads to the engine doing the idle mamba...
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"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad |
#8
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If the rough idle occured as soon as the linkage broke the chances are strong that somhow they are related. Two failures at the same time are not common. Perhaps the result as mentioned is a case of you restoring the linkage with a lower idle than before as already suggested. Thats also where I might go.
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#9
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Thanks for all the replies folks.....I think I may have discovered the cause last night...and some of you have hit upon it....
With the hood open, I pulled the "STOP" lever away from the valve cover and the rpm's increased just a bit and everything seemed to settle down. So...now I have to figure out how to keep it there. The pedal has a round ball connected to it, which slides over the bar from the engine bay. The ball broke off the pedal (again) and stepping on the pedal was like stepping on a brick...it did nothing. Guess I have some work to do, adjusting and lubing all those connections...then checking the rack dampener (do I have to have my wife in the car for that?????) Finally, the motor mounts are solid, so no worries there. Thanks again ya'll ! !
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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif |
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