New owner, lots of questions... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

KarTek · #1 06-20-2007, 11:22 AM

Folks,

Second time posting this because the computer ate my entire previous 30 min. long post...

This one won't be so eloquent...

Just bought a 1998 E300TD, have questions on the climate control, engine, etc...

The climate control is the most annoying. Is it normal for the air to blow from the vents when the setpoint is lower than the outside temp and throught the defrost when the setpoint is higher?

I'm also getting no heat. There's 11.some volts showing at the dual heat control valve but I'm feeling one hot hose and one not so hot hose. Could it be the aux pump? Is it rebuildable?

Are the window switches repairable? The auto function works sometimes and sometimes not. Is there some sort of torque sensor in the window that can be adjusted?

How do I remove the seat adjusting switch panel?

How do I remove the console panel to get at the window switches?

How do I change the front, side marker lamps?

The engine seems to knock loudly and bounce around quite a bit when started cold. Is this normal or could it be a bad injector or glow plugs?

And just a basic question: What's the engine designation? Someone told me 606 but I think there's a decimal after that as well...

Thank you all for your help!

Rick Miley · #2 06-20-2007, 05:14 PM

Engine is OM606.962, but 606 turbo is sufficient to identify it in the U.S.

On this car there's always at least a small amount of air coming out the defrost vents. With the A/C on in the summer, I get condensation on the outside of the windshield from that spot being so cold.

On the side marker lamps, I think they just push out. Buy the replacements and they should make it obvious how they are attached. I did this so many years ago I forgot. Also sorta forgot how to remove the window switch panel. The black trim ring around the tranny section lifts up, and then the whole panel pulls up. But I can't remember front or back first. Somebody else will know.

And finally, it probably has a bad glow plug. When everything is working properly, you should not even notice this engine starting. It just sorta magically transforms from "off" to "running".

TMAllison · #3 06-20-2007, 06:43 PM

Regarding the AC: Run it a while, then press and hold "rest" on the display for 5 secs. to get into diagnostic mode. Write down the first 7 items (toggle through them with the left "auto" button) and post here for help.

Side marker lamps are accessed through the wheel well, turn wheel hard over.

In addition to checking the GP's and injectors, measure your motor mounts as they may be contributors to your shaking/bouncing. They should measure a min of 13mm from the top of the tallest rubber rim, down to the next level.

whunter · #4 06-20-2007, 11:02 PM

ShopForum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > General Information
Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=142446

Have a great day.

KarTek · #5 06-21-2007, 08:16 AM

Guys,

Thanks for the input.

For an update:

I fixed the window switches. There's a procedure listed in the owner's manual to "synchronize" the windows after power is removed from them. Just run the window up to the top by holding the button down then hold it for an additional 2 sec once it stops. Worked like magic!

I figured the engine has a bad glow plug. The engine makes a metallic knocking like it's being hit with a hammer for about 7 sec. after startup. Is the test procedure is the same as most any Diesel? Continuity test? What is the normal reading?

Thanks for the info on the motor mounts. I noticed this morning that I'm getting a "mwwa" sound (for lack of a better term) that seems to be coming from the engine area when I hit a dip in the road. The sound is also associated with a momentary vibration in the floorboard. My gut tells me the soft mounts are compressing briefly and allowing the engine to transmit vibration to the body.

whunter, thanks for the link. I've gone through the FAQ's and read the info on the related questions but I hadn't found that one yet.

I did the test code retrieval procedure and came up with the folowing codes. I listed them all just for what it's worth...

1, 19 20, 3.6
2, 38 21, 06
3, 09 22, 00
4, 10 23, 00
5, 10 24, 13.3
6, 87 40, 71
7, 15 41, 34
8, 59 42, 72
9-, 01 43, 152
10, 2.6
11, 2.6
12, 4.3

Thanks again!

TMAllison · #6 06-21-2007, 10:35 PM

Should have mentioned the second part of the data too....need to know if you have any fault codes stored.

Key to pos 2, engine off. Adjust left temp to HI and right temp to LO. Press and hold Rest and EC for five secs. You have 20 secs to complete from time key was turned on.

Toggle through codes with right auto button. FF appears when finished or if no stored codes.

Now all we need is for Matt L to help confirm what it all means...I think you might be a little low on refrigerant. Any noises from the center vents? Is left side warmer than right?

KarTek · #7 06-22-2007, 07:53 AM

Terry,

Thanks for the reply. I did the stored code retrieval process and came up with the following:

Left side always read E61. The right side showed:

227
231
232
234
235
417
418
419
459
423

The AC compressor was just replaced along with some of the other components like the dryer I think. That was just before I purchased the car. Also, no side seems hotter or cooler than the other. I'm thinking more and more that the aux water pump is frozen up.

Thanks again for the insight.

TMAllison · #8 06-23-2007, 11:47 AM

Wow, too many codes to attempt to explain. FYI - The codes are read "EB 1227" etc.

Go here http://www.eclassbenz.com/acdiag enter all the data and it will give you a brief description of most of the codes you have. You should prob clear all those codes and see which ones return. Cant remember off hand how to do that. It may be by holding both auto buttons or rest when you reach FF??? I'll see if I can find the instuctions if someone else doesnt chime in.

*edit* try pressing up arrow and down arrow together and see if that clears the codes. Suspect it is the right hand set of controls.

*edit again* some of the missing codes not shown on the above link
1235 is emmissons sensor
1419 is electromagnetic clutch
1423 is switchover valve block
1459 is series interface connection to instrument cluster

Along with your newly found broken/jury rigged GP issue, you need sit down and "talk" to the seller about the AC system too.....

KarTek · #9 07-03-2007, 08:20 AM

OK, getting back to my heat problem which, for simplicity, I'll just dedicate this thread to since I made another one for engine problems...

Last night I goofed around with the duo-valve and the aux pump and the pump seems to be working fine. It shot a nice geyser of antifreeze when I activated it with the hose off. The valve on the other hand, is hot as fire and not from hot water. I think it may have a short in it so I'll be pulling it to check it out.

KarTek · #10 07-06-2007, 07:39 PM

I just got in from goofing with the heating circuit and I found the following:

The duo valve is fine - no shorts, works perfect! Duty cycle changes as expected determined by settings on the temp control.

Pump is fine - runs when it's supposed to.

What I found that was odd: The outlet of the pump seems dead headed into the engine block. Applying pressure to that hose results in no flow from the other end that returns from the head in the rear of the engine. Is is possible someone installed a gasket backwards? Maybe on the water pump... Are there any kind of check valves or temperature controlled valves other than the ones in the duo valve?

I had both ends of the circuit open and got no flow in either direction... No flow=no heat!

Any more ideas?