I just got my 82 300SD started after being in the barn for 10 years. Full repair history and the maintenance book filled out by the dealership. So a really good history and maintenance. 144K miles

So...
New filters (fuel) and rotella oil change.
New primer pump.
New fuel lines - at the engine.
New battery.
Started within about 2 minutes of cranking.

I did take out the injectors and placed Marvel M Oil and soaked for a week. Retorqued the injectors - no new injector shields - yet - but I will replace them after a compression test (after valve adjustment).

A little blue smoke when idling for a while. My parents did complain about the oil comsumption. I don't know what their defintion of excessive opil usage is. I have searched this site....

So it runs. I plan to drive it home today for about 100 miles (with backup rig). I would of drained the fuel tank, but there was 18 gallons - the stuff in the fuel filters looked good - which doesn't mean much.

Then I'll change the transmission oil, diesel purge and all.

Questions:

Turbo - How much should the turbo shaft move up and down (axial or is it radial)? Using my fingers as I replaced the seals on the 'air U-pipe". There is movement (1/8"??? or less). Could this be part of the oil comsumption issue

Mouse Home - There was nest right under the Brake Booster - what is under the brake booster, Is there a drain, can it get in to the air system there? No obvoius signs in the car, but...

Electrical Fuse Box Cover- The cover is still there - and the latch handle, but I cannot seem to see what the latch handles 'catches' - Any one have a picture? Or...

Great site - really enjoy the site.

Geoff

You can't see where the latch catches on the fuse cover because it catches down below the latch. You simply drop the "catch" part of the latch down and then press the "handle" part of the latch towards the cover. Mine is really easy to press into the latched position so it's hard to tell that it really latched. It's also easy to flip the latch upside down so the catch is up instead of down. The it won't work. Maybe that's your problem...?

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84 300SD running on WVO

I have read a few threads here that mention failed turbo bearings and excess oil consumption in the same breath. They have also mentioned that a kit to rebuild is fairly inexpensive and not difficult.

Under the brake booster, are the resistor coils for the blower speeds. Definitely eliminate a highly flammable mouse nest in that area ASAP!

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

144K miles! cool. the fuel should be fine a mostly full tank, and relative stability of temp from storage inside should have prevented condensation. don't worry about draining the tank. 1/8" play in the turbo sounds like a lot, it's probably more like 1/64" if you have blue smoke you are ingesting oil... turbo is likely. did they run it without an air cleaner? did they go excessive miles on the oil? odd for the turbo to be in such shape with only 144K on the clock... mine has more than double that # and no problems at all.
the 82 is a nice year, post some pics here, or in your gallery for all to see!
Welcome to the forum!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Thanks for the answers.

Electrical cover- I now know how the latch works.

Mouse Home - cleaned all the Sh_t between the brake booster and battery tray - remember there is a double fire wall. Made sure the drain holes where working - amazing how much there.

Turbo - Still working the issue.

Fuel Sender - fixed today - seems to work. W126 (82 model) - just remove the rear bench seat and back - You don't have to remove the top back deck... Fuel sender is under a plastic cap.

Odometer - Not working (underworking) - Another project.

Made a 250 mile run to day - ran great, good temps, sun roof worked, AC worked, fuel gage worked. Need new tires - had to use the foam to make it home.

Blower Coils - Cleaned - thanks for that info.

Climate control - Have to study that more. I needed to defrost the front window - pushed the defrost botton - works great - but only one fan speed - high. Does someone have a Climate Control outline - Is it really automatic, does it adjust fan speeds, etc....

I'll get picutres

geoff

I would change oil and filter pronto. My choice would be rotella 15 w 40 for that car, personally.

an eighth of an inch sounds excessive on the turbo and i doubt that you actually have that much. I think the blades would be hitting the housing with that much. A little play is normal since it runs on a film of oil in plain brass bushings. A very simple and reliable device, the turbos on those motors.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Sounds like your on your way to the MB addiction of fixing and enjoying all of the little projects on these cars!

As Tom stated, most folks with severe wear in the turbo noticed a blue cloud of smoke and oil consumption that deteriated rapidly. After a 250 mile run, it seems this would have been definitely noticable. Kind of wondering if the turbo is bad as originally thought. You may be looking at oil leaks (oil cooler lines, turbo oil return, oil pan or oil filter housing/block areas are the main suspects).

For the climate control, Defrost is High blower mode...I guess the MB engineers wanted to ensure clear vision. Your automatic climate control (ACC) is mostly related to the TV mode (total ventilation-including defrost), Normal Mode (ACC-with compressor), and EC Mode (economy-no compressor). The blower speed is set by the pushbuttons to the right (Hi-Auto-Low). In auto mode the blower will change speeds to maintain temperature.

Most of the problems I saw with this system were cured by resoldering the edge joints in the controller, replacement of a few vacuum pod diaphragms, and mono-valve. None were expensive and only one of the vacuum pods was difficult. Once repaired, I believe you will enjoy how nice the system works.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Sam,

Thanks for the reply on the HVAC system - I am going to track down any vacuum leaks (I have an old vaccum pump - and missing the little connectors).

Turbo - I am the proud owner of a new turbo, via ebay - I'll rebuild that. And install.

ALDA Banjo fitting - amazing how this forum works - Banjo was at least 80% clogged - shifts are smoother.

3/2 valves (on valve cover) - Probably need new levers.

Valves - Took that off and replaced the gasket, measured a few valves for clearenances - seem fine. I do need to make wrenches - Injectors are in the way. With 144k miles - amazing how clean the valve gallery is - I mean clean and no sludge.

ODO/Trip - Gears are slipping - No way around it. I did reset the trip a few times to see if that would clear up the issue.

Fuel Snder - Took it apart fully - a little sludge and hard gunk - Now I trust the fuel gage - verified it last nite - needle a little over 1/2 - 9.2 gallons.

BTW Diesel was $2.66 a gallon.

Glow plugs - going to be here Tuesday - This should clear up the hard starting when cold (a little).

Valve Stem Seals - Anybody have the ************** guide they can scan and send - Or How do you replace the seals with a minimun of work? I can make tools and seals are only about $30. I have a little blue smoke when starting up - so that usually implies valve stem seals or guides. And considering the miles - seals seem more likely - and cheaper to start with. At least get to a more confortable level

Thanks for any replies

Geoff in Oregon


thanks