Hi, my new purchase has a few minor problems, the ashtray does not stay closed, I have seen this problem on other 300's, how do you fix it?

When turning very sharply and slowly it feels like the rear is Locked. I understand that this car has an automatic locking rear end that is controled via the anti skid and ABS. Could it be not unlocking in sharp turns?

The shocks are about shot, very floaty over the road. I am used to a sports cars and a much firmer and tighter ride. What replacement shocks and possibly springs can I use to firmm it up, E500"? Doess this model have the autoleveling rear?

What books should I purchase to become familar with this car and basic repairs such as brake repair, filter changes and general repair. I am a fairly good backyard mechanic but have never had a MD before and already I can see that it is nothing like domestic or japanese products.

thank's

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car

Forgot to note, the engine temp runs at 90 deg on hot days up to 100 with AC on. Is this OK? How do you check the electric fans, I don't ever see them on. At what temp do they turn on?

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car

as far as the temperature goes.. i have a 350sdl, and my temp gets up to 100 on hot summer days, and if under heavy lload in heavy traffic (up a hill on the highway in heavy traffic) it can reach 105/106ish, but only for a a minute or two. Id say it averages 90 deg. or so, but that wouldnt be too much too worry about it. I'd only be concerned if the engine is consitently over 105.

Im not sure how these electric fans work, mine dont seem to turn on either. One day when my car was at a little over 100 i quickly stopped and checked to see if htey were running and htey werent. Someome told me htey might not kick in until 110. Ive herad people short circuiting them so they run all the time, but i dont really want to mess around with that.

hope that helps

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1991 350SDL (Navy Blue) - 278k

You dont say what your miles are. On my E300 the shocks got a little freeway bounce going at 195k.

Hard to beat going with the OEM shock so it rides the way MB designed it to drive. The 124 is probably capable of more than most drivers are capable of handling. With a N/A Diesel its never going to drive like a E500 or M5 BMW.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Eh, just as fast as a turbo model, and it truly is a 4 door go kart. You;re missing the true feel of the car for sure. As Terry said, I dont know what the oem manufactiurer is, but I would use the same. That car should ride on rails.

Fans? Mine are an enigma. Will kick on during a hot start. ( I beleive they are suppsoed to), adn the car has never seen 100 ( close but), so they've never kicked on due to temps.

They have a hot start switch, and an AC switch to trigger them.m I;d check the relays, or feed them 12v and see if they work.

bilstein..all the way. go with hd's if you like a solid ride.

The aux fan should come on low speed when a/c is on as long as ambient temps are high.
A quick test for fan circuit is to jumper the high pressure sw at the drier [ the one with the pigtail wires].. Just peel back the sleeve at the white connectors and jumper there w/key ON..that will give you Low fan..High fan test is to disconnect/unplug the engine coolant temp sensor [ 2 wire/blu one], That will default the ACC unit to High fan.
If both these test work, you have verified fan circuits integrity, BUT..if you never see a Low fan activation and it has passed the jumper test, then you can be slightly low on refrigerant..[ low ref. will not produce s high enough high side pressure to trigger the sw ] Very common mis-diagnosis...this condition will be coupled with a complaint of poor a/c output at stop/idle
If either of the fan speeds fail these test, the first place to look is at the fuses on top of the aux fan relays [ in box behind fuse box..need to take off 6 screws]

Stock shocks will tighten things up a fair bit. This is not a sports car, but it'll hang in and corner fairly well, albeit with some body roll.

Don't forget front shock mounts. If steering is loose you can do the links, steering shock, etc. Don't know about your rear end symptoms, my car has no ASR.

Rear links can dial in the steering also, make it less prone to wandering (from rear steer).

A fair book is Stu Ritter's E Class bible. Not fantastic, but decent. This board is one of your best resources.

By the way, if your plastic fuel lines are brown and you can't see the fuel in them, it's only a matter of time until they start to leak at the connections. One of the biggest sore points on the 606, but not that big a deal.

My car has less creaks and groans at 236K than many new cars. Hope to make it to 500K.

Rgds,
Chris W.
'95 E300D, 236K

I have been looking for repair manuals myself for the same model. I have purchased the Bentley W124 Bible and returned it. The Haynes manual is okay but lacks info on the 606. I have not looked into manuals from MB.

All those lines were less than $40 at the dealer. Easy to replace ( except everything requires IP removal!). Wait until the tank is good and low.

The lines were replaced by the former owner because of leaking with LSDF and biodiesel. The car handels fine but the shocks are worse than a 70" Buick. The front bobs up and down 3-4 times afterr every bump. I would sacrifice some ride for much more control. From searching the forum Bilstiens seem the way to go, anyone have the HD shocks.

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Karl B
95 E300 D
2006 Mazdaspeed 6
2001 GMC Yukon XL
1997 Contour SVT
Mazda RX-7 SCCA race car