After four years, I finally found the time to rebuild the driver's seat on the SD. Typical problems of poor support and a low driving position.

This is the third seat I've done on the W-126 and it still remains a slow process.

The seat spring was found to be in good condition with no breaks. So, the only item requiring replacement is the "horsehair" pad. It's available from GAAH for $120. and it fits perfectly. I also cut to fit a 1" piece of memory foam to sit above the pad and below the leather covering.

It's a bit of a slow process to secure all 12 attachment points with a knitting needle and some retaining plastic buttons, but nothing technically complex.

After reinstalling the seat back and the tracks (cleaned and regreased), the installation back in the vehicle was uneventful.

Two tricks however:

Remove the rear seat cushion before even thinking about getting the front seat out. Otherwise, you'll surely damage it. R & R happens through the rear door.

There is a carpeted cover that is hooked to two springs at the front of the seat. If you remove the springs from the seat bottom, you cannot reinstall them. So, the carpeted cover with the springs must be installed onto the seat prior to installing the seat in the vehicle. However, the cover is not attached to the steel crossbar at this point. Otherwise you can't get to the plugs. Even with the cover lifted upwards, it limits access to the plugs for the electrical controls, so, don't bolt the seat down until you plug it in. Then the cover can be fully attached to the bar and the seat can be secured.

The main reason for the post is the benefit of the new cushion. It's comfortable as hell and the driving position must be 1.5" higher than previous.

When I peer over the dashboard, the top of the wheel is dead even with the defroster outlet. I'll bet that none of the 20 year old seats will match this. The additional benefit of a more commanding view of the road is striking.

So, consider rebuilding the seat on the W-126. It'll take you 4-5 hours or so over two weekends. But, it's worth it.

I did a search for GAAH and couldn't find it. Can you elaborate? Chris

__________________
My Truck.. 2007 DODGE, 5.9 Cummins, 6spd stick, 4X4. My car..1977 240D, OTHER WHEELS...1955 VW Oval window bug, European Delivery (Holland) with a 1700cc, 2 barrel, Porsche drum brakes. 1939 WILLYS Pick-up. 1967 Triumph 200cc Tiger Cub. 1976 Honda 550F 4cyl Motor Cycle.

Here you go........

http://www.gahh.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_51_3438_233_2036&products_id=748

Brian,
Congratulations on tackling the W-126 driver's seat rebuilt. I have been starring at mine and wondering how to replace the non working motors on the seat bottom.

I got a good '87 300SDL seat bottom complete with working motors that I wanted to transplant on my existing seat but the hardest part is removing the 6 (i think) bolts that hole the bottom to the rails. I managed to remove 2 on the front but can not see how to power the motors to slide forward and line up the bolts in the middle.

(You may ask why not the complete seat? Well, some fool cannibalized the back part, even cut the wires! And the recycler let me have the bottom for free!!)

The seat motors are driven by 'teethed' cables, I'm thinking of pulling out the sheared able on my current seat and replacing them.
Reason? the up/down, fro/aft recline does work except for forward/backward adjust. I hear the motor but the cable won't bite.

Any suggestion?

Thanks
Patrick

__________________
1987 300SDL 314K mi, counting; #22 Head
1999 E300Turbo 405K original miles
1997 E320 180K mi (Son's)
2002 ML320 (Son's)
1998 S320 140K mi (Son's) sold
1985 300SD 311K mi
1984 300D 324K mi (killed by a hit-n-run turd)
*************************************

On the SDL's, I could power the motor with a battery and a couple of wires with alligator clips. But, on the SD, the motor terminals were not exposed, so, I made about four trips to the vehicle (once the seat back was off) and plugged it back in and moved it about 1/2" or so.

There are six hex head cap screws that hold the track together. You can see four of these and can remove them before you even remove the seat from the vehicle. They are on the very ends of the tracks and the heads face you. So, get all four out while the seat is still in the vehicle.

The remaining two are accessed from below, but the heads are readily visible and you can easily remove them once the seat is out of the vehicle.

Now, you must separate the seat frame from the tracks.

There are six phillips head screws that take a #3 bit. Don't use #2. Don't ask why.

The two forward screws are exposed with the seat about 1/2 way back. Just remove them.

The two middle screws and the two aft screws are the problem. Again, you need the long #3 phillips screwdriver and you must pass the screwdriver through the holes in the track frame and down into the tracks to the screw.

But, how you say? You can't see the screws because the track is in the way.

Since you remove the six cap screws in the original step, you can slide the upper part of the track back and forth until the access hole in the track is directly above the middle screws. Now, if the holes in the frame are magically aligned with the access hole and you have a straight shot with the screwdriver, you're all set. If not, it's a trip to the vehicle for a slight adjustment. DO NOT attempt to remove the screw if the screwdriver doesn't have a straight shot directly into the screw head. Make the trip back to the vehicle and make the adjustment.

The two aft screws are accessed by sliding the track all the way forward out of the way. Again, you've got the alignment problem with the holes in the seat frame. If you're lucky, the successful alignment of the center holes will allow you to access the rear holes. If not, it's another trip to the vehicle.

In reassembly, I was fortunate to access all four screws without the need to move the seat. So, there is one position where you can get to all four in one go. The last two are exposed.

Also, make sure you've got a magnetic phillips screwdriver (any size) to pluck the screws from the holes. Otherwise, they'll disappear down the tracks and I'll be able to hear the curse words all the way over here.

Nice I need to sit in it, sounds like a good project. I need to get my drivers seat recovered, so that would be a good time to upgrade the padding.

I wonder what it would cost to get one of these seats recovered?

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

http://www.gahh.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_51_3438_233_2039&products_id=720

http://www.gahh.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_51_3438_233_2039&products_id=719


That's one seat in leather............

Yeah I saw that, now I wonder how I can get velour?

My Broker replaced the drivers seat in her SDL a couple years ago. Drove it up to the dealer, and asked for a new seat, they bolted a new one in. I'm sure it cost a bit...

There are a couple local resto shops, I'll have to see who can match MB's velour. The bolster is starting to rip and look like crap, I need to do something.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Brian, thanks for the write-up. I'm going to tackle this job soon!
Have you heard of any reviews of the vinyl replacements for the OEM leather? Its about half the cost of leather. I don't think I can bring myself to drop $1200 to do the front seats. But, $650 seems alot more reasonable.

I have not heard of the quality or fit for the vinyl replacements. However, like most vinyl, if you care for it properly, it will usually do a good job. I don't know if it's similar to MB Tex that is actually more durable than the leather.

My leather seats on the SD have crease lines that may eventually develop into cracks. I'm trying to stave it off with the leather conditioners............

Ok... your write up is exactly the way it is done (using the good seat bottom on hand, frame with the motors intact and separated), but the seat currently on the car is a problem.

The for/Aft motor doesn't work so the seat can not me moved to align for the removal of the middle phillips screws. Do you think the seat can be manually slide(ed?) with the motors and cables completely dismantled from the frame to align for the middle screws?

__________________
1987 300SDL 314K mi, counting; #22 Head
1999 E300Turbo 405K original miles
1997 E320 180K mi (Son's)
2002 ML320 (Son's)
1998 S320 140K mi (Son's) sold
1985 300SD 311K mi
1984 300D 324K mi (killed by a hit-n-run turd)
*************************************

Remove the cable from the motor end and connect it to a drill. Carefully rotate the cable in the drill and move the track.

You won't be able to move the seat because the pinion gears are engaged in the track. The tracks are removed when those phillips screws are removed. So, I don't believe your approach will work.

DUH! I see what you meant. Brian, when I removed the cable from the motor end, the whole cable slides out instead... That's what I found out playing with same cables at the junk yard...what gives??

__________________
1987 300SDL 314K mi, counting; #22 Head
1999 E300Turbo 405K original miles
1997 E320 180K mi (Son's)
2002 ML320 (Son's)
1998 S320 140K mi (Son's) sold
1985 300SD 311K mi
1984 300D 324K mi (killed by a hit-n-run turd)
*************************************

I've never done it.......so, please explain in more detail? Can you get a drill on the inner rotating portion of the cable?

Ok... here goes...

Three motors each with cables connected and each cable goes to a gear which is on the opposite side on the seat rail.

I remove a c-clamp that locks the cable on the motor's end (I think the middle motor is for the for/aft) and the cable slides out from inside the motor.

I then try the drill as you suggested, no movement while the cable spins. I checked the cable by pulling on it and it slide out completely. I suspect the teeth were damaged, thus couldn't bite inside the gears??

__________________
1987 300SDL 314K mi, counting; #22 Head
1999 E300Turbo 405K original miles
1997 E320 180K mi (Son's)
2002 ML320 (Son's)
1998 S320 140K mi (Son's) sold
1985 300SD 311K mi
1984 300D 324K mi (killed by a hit-n-run turd)
*************************************