Been looking around and can only find procedures that outline a w123 brake job. I have changed countless brake pads in the past but have never encounter this. When removing the unit that goes around the rotor and contains the pads (Not sure what the exact name of this is called) it started leaking brake fluid at a pretty good rate. I checked the brake line and it isn't leaking and when I tightened the unit back together, it stopped. Is that normal? Do I just change the pads as normal, endure the mess of fluid, then add brake fluid and then bleed?

Garrett

Did you remove any of the bolts that hold the caliper halves together?

From my understanding, the caliper is what pertrudes and pushes the brake pad into the rotor causing the vehicle to stop. I removed (4) 14mm bolts and then the unit started to leak so I put them back in. It made sense to me that these two halves had to be removed in order to remove the old brake shoes. Is there something different about these brakes that I am missing?

G

Ghohn,

NO, the piston is what pushes the pads against the rotor. The caliper contains the pistons.

NO again, the 2 halves of the caliper do not and should not be separated to replace the pads. The pads just slip in and out of the calipers after removing the 2 locking pins. But sometime the pads are hard to remove, usually because of rust.

P E H

I am afraid that you missed a lot. The calipers should never be disassembled. They don't even need to be removed to replace the pads. The only safe thing for you to do now is replace the calipers.

Son-of-a!

Separating the two halves of the calipers will cause the fluid to leak. If you got fluid soaked pads now, you may have to replace the pads. No need to remove calipers to remove the pads. Look for the way .

Clean it all up good with proper solvent or brake cleaner.
remember to change one pad at a time in order to avoid pistons from both extending.
You obviously need to bleed air out of the system now. Flush it all !
Good maintanance.
I just did mine with a friend and it was dirty !!

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

Well I was planning on changing the pads, that's why I am taking her apart in the first place so no loss there. I just got on mercedes shop to verify that indeed I did seperate both halves but only long enough to leak some fluid on the ground. Lesson learned I reckon'. I guess I am really having a hard time visualizing the new, obviously bigger pads, fitting in there. I am sure it will make more sense when I get the new pads tommorrow morning. Thanks fellas' you guys rock

G

I'm reckoning that the lesson ain't over yet.

What happens if i put it back together and it has "failed." No brake pressure?

Ghohn,

U have to push the piston all the way into the caliper. U should only do one pad at a time because pushing one piston into the caliper might push the other piston out of the caliper. So, put back in one of the old pads before U push the opposite piston into caliper.

P E H

From what I have read a lot of forum members have just been able to get the piston to retract by simply pushing it back. On other cars it seems the norm is to lay the old pad across the piston and retract via c-clamp. I had a saturn that had this otherwise worthless 10 dollar tool that affixed via goofy offsetting nubs on a socket that twisted the caliper backward.

I guess my question or concern is what happens if I have damage the caliper from seperating the 2 halves life tangofox pointed out?

G

Tango,

I don't agree with your statement that it will ruin a caliper by taking it apart. I have taken them apart many times and I had no problems. About the only thing U might damage by taking then apart is the O-ring between the 2 halves. I even made one good caliper out of 2 calipers that had the opposite
sides bad.

A caliper isn't that complicated a device. Basically just a chunk of cast iron with a bore, piston and seals.

P E H

Ghohn,

If there are no leaks between the halves of the caliper, its OK. If it leaks U can replace the o-ring between the halves.

U should bleed the calipers after U install the new pads.

I thought it would be a pain in the ass too but when I took my master cylinder off I noticed the o-ring around the plunger would leak. Replaced the whole thing, and brakes were much improved.

If your MC is original you may find the same.

__________________
1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi