Hey guys,

I'm BRAND NEW to the mercedes diesel but a fairly competent mechanic, such as it is.

I just bought (2) 76 240D's 1 auto, 1 stick. The guy said that the auto doesn't run due to bad IP but I don't think he really knew. I had intended to swap the pump from the stick but I'm gathering that this can't be done (read posts suggesting that their different).

Anyway, I was hoping that the resident genius could tell me what maintenance items I need to accomplish and if there is some way to check the function of the IP or if I should try timing it (I'm liking the sounds of the bubble method) and see what happens.

Thanks In Advance

Bump....

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

Well, thats sort of true but not entirely on the IP's. Yes, they are different, only in respect that the one for an auto has the little plastic vacuum control built on top of it for controlling the trans shifts. They may look different, but for the purpose of testing to see if the pump is the problem, a manual trans IP operates just the same and will run the engine just fine, you just would have a hard time driving it without the trans control.

I would start with changing both fuel filters, (be sure to pre fill the larger one, and use the hand primer until it makes a squishing sound when done). Check the tank strainer for clogging/algae. Check the glow plugs for proper operation. Check timing chain stretch and valve adjustments. loosen the injector lines @ the injectors and crank it in 30 second bursts for a bit and see if fuel comes out of the lines.If so, tighten them and try to fire it off. Be sure you have a chunk of cardboard or something handy to choke the air cleaner with in case you arent able to shut it off or it goes runaway, since you don't yet know the entire history on it. I think that should just about cover it.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

Ok, fuel delivery to the pump is fine but heres the deal.

We tried the drip method but there seems to be no real pattern at all. The fuel goes from a steady stream to a fast drip to a slow drip over the course of maybe 45 seconds, achieving the "1 drip/second" for maybe 5 seconds of that time.

So... we tried the bubble method and I get bubbles out #1 and 4 no matter where the engine is rotated. We removed the pump after setting the engine at 24 and the pump gear is set perfectly. So? Something bad internally? We looked inside the pump while rotating the motor and the pistons are pumping. What gives?

It is a tough place to be. New to diesel and you really don't understand the systems, and the engine is not running. The best in that situation is to leave the IP alone. They rarely are the problem. But since you have removed it, I would recommend going to the search thing above and type in "injection pump timing"and see if you can get it back in time. The chances are really great that the problem is elsewhere like compression, glow plugs, air and fuel deliverey.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

We've tried the timing.... see results in previous post.

When I was new to these cars (& diesels) I had to change my pump as it was not set up for the car I wasd putting the engine into. I elected the drip method, but modified. Instead of trying to set the pump and rotate the engine as it said, (the procedure requires 2 people) I was doing this myself. So, I set the engine at 24*, then rotated the pump instead, toward the direction it would be driven by the timing chain, while pumping the hand primer, got my drip pretty easily, and as soon as I had a full prime in the system it kicked right over and has ran good since.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

Ok, having now tried both, I have to say that the bubble method is WITHOUT QUESTION the way to go. Trying to time drips is a joke. Put the hose on the pump, blow through it and VERY slowly rotate the engine. Bubbles stop, thats the start of injection. Once I got the busted pump apart and saw exactly how it works its obvious.

The car is now running but it smokes BADLY. Of course, it hasn't run in 5 years. I had to drain all the fuel and refill. Now I'll be changing the the fuel filters and oil and filter and hopefully after some torque from driving she'll stop smoking. BTW, there is no difference in the IP from these 2 cars. One is a 77 stick the other is a 76 auto. No vacuum line to the tranny.

[QUOTE=dontknowdiesel;1568985]Ok, having now tried both, I have to say that the bubble method is WITHOUT QUESTION the way to go. Trying to time drips is a joke. Put the hose on the pump, blow through it and VERY slowly rotate the engine. Bubbles stop, thats the start of injection. Once I got the busted pump apart and saw exactly how it works its obvious.

I agree, and cant understand why anyone would fool with a drip tube except to put a hose on it and use it for the "bubble method"

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"