With my injector tubes disconnected from the injectors I am getting a drip out of the tubes as I crank the engine. I believe there is something wrong with the fuel shutoff (engine stop) circuit because the car started right up, I turned it off, then tried to restart it and it wouldn't. I know the IP should only be rebuilt by a precision shop but what about an attempt at working on just the shut off circuit (should be a simple mechanism). I also found that the IP had no oil in it. Anyone have a used pump to sell.

I'm not an IP guy... yet... but I do have some very nice wrecking yards around here. from what you have said it sounds like a problem that some of the guys here who know about IPs could talk you through. but if it comes to the point that you do need to get a used IP, PM me and i'll see what i can get for you.

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Ok, let's try a few things. First, pull the vacuum line off the stop can on the IP. That way we know it is not accidentally pulling the stop lever. Go ahead and fill the pump with engine oil. Now, tighten all the lines onto the injectors finger tight. Now back them off about half a turn. Got a fully charged battery? Gonna need it and then some. Keep the charger hooked up and running. Spin the engine for about 20 seconds at a time (with a five minute rest in between). Do not wait for the glow plugs, just crank as soon as you turn the key. If you want, you can remove the glow plug fuse strip.
Do this until you see fuel bubble/dripout of each slightly loose connection. Once you get to this point, tighten the #4 injector line with a wrench. Go ahead and run the glow plugs this time and see if the motor will "pop" on #4. If it does, start tightening down the other lines 3,2,1. and see if it won't start. My experience has been that it can take forever to get fuel up to all the lines. it helps to hold the throttle wide open when spinning the engine (by hand, don't just tie it open or something-bad thing if it starts!).
If SirNik doesn't have any luck gettng you a pump, call Bernard at European Connection in Ky. 1-800-395-8636, and yes, I am sometimes affiliated with that place. Just tell him BobK sent ya.

That is a w115 240D. There is no vacuum fuel shutoff. Fuel shutoffl is by pushing the gorilla knob in.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

I primer the system with the manual pump and I have been cranking the sh$t out of it (probably a total of 10 minutes of actual cranking over 6 hours). Wouldn't that be enough to make the fuel spray out of the lines? It is supposed to come out under great force isn't it?

PS, I don't have a glow plug fuse and my fuel shutoff cable controlled and not vacuum controlled.

BobK,

I tried what you said and I was surprised that it worked. I ran the car for a half an hour, then drove it for a four mile test drive, then turned it off and immediately tried to restart it. The f*cking POS will not restart. Engine is hot, so glow plugs cannot be it. Car started (cold) before the test drive, so IP cannot be it (unless there is an intermittent problem in the fuel shutoff mechanism). I know the engine has low compression when I tested it cold, but because it ran decent (when I finally did get it running again) I find it hard to believe that the hot compression is not adequate to allow the car to start. At this point, since it stopped running consistently last month I have got it to start 3 times, spending an average of 6 hours per start. I could have probably pulled the engine, re-ringed it and reinstalled it in that time and at this point if I cannot part it, would gladly rebuild it accept for one thing: I know after I re-ring it it still will not run and it will end up being somekind of IP fuel shutoff problem. I would test the IP to rule that out but from what I have seen there is no way for me to test it.

I have the full history of this car with a copy of all the repair receipts and that file folder is nearly one inch thick. I leafed through the receipts and this car was junk from mile one. After I paid for the car and the guy handed me the folder I thought the folder contained proof of meticulous maintenance, which it did, but on closer examination is was a record of just how big of a POS it was. I added it up and the previous owners spent more in repair costs than they did to buy the car.

I paid $1200 for the MB. Is there any chance I could recoup any money in parts? Even if I got it running again I would never feel comfortable turning it off ever again away from home, so at best this is a car that i could only use to run up to the corner store and back. If I could get out from underneath this MB I will never go near another one again. Lots of people here loved them and some might be great cars, but when the first one you've had contact with has been such a piece of junk, it is difficult to trust another one.

Right now I am starting to inventory the worth of parts. The tires are worth $50. Aluminum rims worth $60 in scrap. Battery is worth $20. The rest of the car is worth $100 in scrap. Are there any parts that are hard to find or desirable that I should remove before hauling this in for scrap. If I could get half my money back I would not feel so bad. Sorry for the rant.

I don't know where you are located, but it sounds like you need to find an indy shop and get this thing looked at. It's very possible that you have a minor problem, but it's pretty difficult to troubleshoot over the internet. If it was me, I would find a shop, get it started and drive it there. Let them look at it and tell you what it actually needs, them you can make an informed decision.

That is a good suggestion, but there are no indy shops around me. Even if there were, it is either fuel or compression, neither of which is simple (quick or cheap) to diagnose. The IP could have been simple to diagnose had MB design the car with pressure test fittings, but they didn't. When I look at the design and realize how little attention they put into serviceability I know I do not want to own a MB and only wish I would have known about this shortcoming when I bought the car.

I listened to people describe these engines as bulletproof and 143,000 miles as "low". This engine's compression tested at minimum for combustion when cold. With 143,000 on it I would not describe this engine design as 'bulletproof".

It sounds like you should sell it.

I would love to sell it. I have it listed here for parts. I would be satisfied to get half my money back.