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  #1  
Old 07-14-2007, 06:54 PM
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Posts: 116
Question Battery not charging- Alternator- or...

Heya.

Put a new battery in my benz and it still isn't charging.
at 2000 rpm it reads 11.0

The 'lack-of-charge' issue started just after I replaced the overload protection relay fuse...
Here...


Replacing the fuse got my Tach working, Ac dosen't work still.
Could this fuse be responsible for altering the perfomance of the alternator?? Im going to go pull it and test the charge again...
But I'd like to know the WHY of it, if it is so. Also- what is the effect of
leaving it out... bad for car?

Also- previous owner tinkered with the Cali system, I am wondering if that may be related as well.

Thanks for any infos.


(EDIT) Just went out to test it with fuse out... Woulden't even start with fuse in.... The new Battery is dead. Car is parked too far from my apartment to plug it into my battery charger- going back out to see if I can get a jump....

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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.

Last edited by Bstef; 07-14-2007 at 07:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-14-2007, 06:59 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstef View Post
Also- previous owner tinkered with the Cali system, I am wondering if that may be related as well.
Tinkered with what?
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  #3  
Old 07-14-2007, 07:31 PM
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the vac system... EGR

I'm altering a diagram to show what mine now looks like bbk in a min
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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.

Last edited by Bstef; 07-14-2007 at 08:03 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-14-2007, 07:53 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 116
Heres what my vac system looks like as of 2 owners ago.

The X's mark org lines that are gone.

The red lines are the new connections.

The one port on the side of the switchover valve (81)
is open, no hose, no plug.

The EGR hose port on the vaccumm converter is hotglued shut.

The threeway enroute to the brake booster check valve... 140
is a fourway... that goes direct to the check valve (drawn in red)






Ill be checking the brushes on the regulator when the sun comes up.
Curious if there are other issues that could cause lack of charge,
as it started after replacing that fuse.
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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.

Last edited by Bstef; 07-14-2007 at 10:17 PM.
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  #5  
Old 07-15-2007, 02:41 PM
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Posts: 116
im headed to buy a phillips head socket thingy. Theres less than an inch of clearance on one of those phillips screws on the volt reg.....
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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2007, 02:43 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstef View Post
im headed to buy a phillips head socket thingy. Theres less than an inch of clearance on one of those phillips screws on the volt reg.....
That's how I do mine.
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2007, 07:19 PM
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Got the voltage regulator out and checked the brushes...

Heres what I've found and from what Ive read around here...
These are 3 signs that I should replace the Alternator all
together... right?

First, The length of the brushes differ slightly, they are not even.

Secondly the furthest brush, although smoothly worn, has a ridge on the side that is not worn (ie: not touching the track).

Thirdly, the inner brush is scored with lines...

All three of these are signs that I need a whole new Alternator, right?





I do not see much of a reason that this alone would make my alternator suddenly not work, Still curious about the fuse in the first post of this thread......

Also- what happens if i Jump the battery and try to drive without this part over to my mechanics if I do indeed need a new alternator? Since the battery isnt charging anyhow- Would it matter?

Thanks for learnin' me.
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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.

Last edited by Bstef; 07-15-2007 at 07:30 PM.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2007, 07:30 PM
Craig
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FWIW, I just had my alternator replaced (again) at an indy shop in DFW (it died while I was traveling) and I had them install a denso instead of a bosch. They cost about the same and this guy claimed to have better luck with them, we'll see.
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  #9  
Old 07-15-2007, 08:18 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sturgis, MI area
Posts: 849
I've got an AL129X Rebuild from California Alternator & Starter.... Has been workin' like a champ for me. Cost me $100 w/ Free shipping...... I took out the bosch regulator and put an aftermarket 14.4 volt regulator in to get a slightly higher voltage and better amperage at idle from it....
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-Matt

EPA Section 609 Certified MVAC Technician
-----------------
Oil Burner Kartel Member #10

Ahh the smell of Diesel Fuel, it's like coffee in the morning!

My Car:

1982 300SD Turbo Diesel (231,500 miles!) RIP

1984 300SD Turbo Diesel Custom (235,500 mi on driveline.) - On Road!!

www.icsrepair.com

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  #10  
Old 07-15-2007, 09:29 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstef View Post
Got the voltage regulator out and checked the brushes...

Heres what I've found and from what Ive read around here...
These are 3 signs that I should replace the Alternator all
together... right?

First, The length of the brushes differ slightly, they are not even.

Secondly the furthest brush, although smoothly worn, has a ridge on the side that is not worn (ie: not touching the track).

Thirdly, the inner brush is scored with lines...

All three of these are signs that I need a whole new Alternator, right?





I do not see much of a reason that this alone would make my alternator suddenly not work, Still curious about the fuse in the first post of this thread......

Also- what happens if i Jump the battery and try to drive without this part over to my mechanics if I do indeed need a new alternator? Since the battery isnt charging anyhow- Would it matter?

Thanks for learnin' me.
None of those photos show any solid reason why the alternator won't function. However, the regulator is usually the culprit, even if the brushes are in good condition. If not, remove the alternator and have it tested by a proper auto electric shop.
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  #11  
Old 07-15-2007, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Blue Point, NY
Posts: 25,396
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bstef View Post
Heres what my vac system looks like as of 2 owners ago.

The X's mark org lines that are gone.

The red lines are the new connections.

The one port on the side of the switchover valve (81)
is open, no hose, no plug.

The EGR hose port on the vaccumm converter is hotglued shut.

The threeway enroute to the brake booster check valve... 140
is a fourway... that goes direct to the check valve (drawn in red)






Ill be checking the brushes on the regulator when the sun comes up.
Curious if there are other issues that could cause lack of charge,
as it started after replacing that fuse.
Remove all vacuum lines to and from the following components:

81,64,60,71.

Obviously, don't leave a T wide open. Remove the T and connect the reamining two lines with a short piece of hose.
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  #12  
Old 07-15-2007, 09:31 PM
speace's Avatar
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Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 371
You might file off that high spot where the brush hasn't been touching and give it a try. The high spot might be toucing something (non-conductive) that is limiting the pressure the brush can apply to the contact surface.
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2007, 04:19 PM
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Posts: 116
filed of the high spot and replaced it... no good.

Replaced it with a new one. Seems to have fixed it,
although I now notice my new battery is at 14.28 when
the car is off. it goes to 15+ when the car is at 2000rpm.

I had my brother helping me jump it the other day-
He acted all guilty about something, I'm wondering if he tapped the
positive jumper to the neg cable- the previous owner replaced the lines to the battery and color coded them wrong- so red is neg and black is pos...

um...
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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.
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  #14  
Old 07-19-2007, 05:12 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Eastern Pa
Posts: 264
Cool Voltage

I had the alternator replaced a few weeks ago. Mechanic said the charge was less than 12v. I told him to leave it alone because the old one had 0v. He told me a similar thing happened with a VW. He went thru 4 and
stopped trying. Maybe it's a German thing. By the way, mine works great.

---------------------
1984 MB 300 SD Turbo
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2007, 05:55 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 116
As it turns out-
My Volt Meter's battery itself was low- so I was getting false readings.

I brought the car by SearsAuto just now- as I got the battery there a couple weeks ago. They tested it, pulled the cables- cleaned them and reconnected them. Free.

Tested fine. Their gadget also said my alternator was happy. Good,
as of early this morning it got a new voltage regulator...

tx again everyone!

My 300D is back on the road.

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OBK #32
1985 300D Turbo (15 gal Greasecar kit installed)
(258,900+mi.) Thanks- Tachometer Fixed. Middle Vents Fixed. Transmission- 1000% better shifting.
Vac leaks- Fixed, Brakes replaced, Steering Box replaced, .... Information Rules.

Last edited by Bstef; 07-20-2007 at 10:06 PM.
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