My radiator puked tonight. It's a Behr. It broke at the top, plastic broke. The same thing happened on my E320 1995 and the mechanic I had then replaced it with one that was not made of plastic at the connections. Anyone have any recommendations for one that is built to last and not the plastic crap? I looked at the parts tab here and the two they had were plastic and I also did a search with no results. (can never figure out the search here) Thanks, Lance

Here you go:

http://www.wizardcooling.com/

But, like most others, you'll settle for the plastic.

I tried the link and it produced no results. If I have to go with plastic, is there any difference between Behr and Nissens? It seems like such a stupid design -- it just breaks off. I'm not a mechanic but is changing a radiator on a '83 ez? Should I try? I looked for DIY articles and couldn't find any. It really doesn't look that difficult but not sure about getting the old out and the new in. Thanks, Lance

Did you call them on the phone and ask about a radiator for your vehicle?

If not, how can you dismiss the link in such a cavalier manner?

These fellows make a very professional solid aluminum radiator although it's not cheap.

I just used their site and no calling because it's Sunday night late here in Miami. I guess I'm still steaming from the breakage. lol I was able to reclamp just to get her home safely.

........yep, I kind of figured that out........it's Sunday night late here.......as well........

www.radiator.com try them. they have the unit that has the upgraded metal rings in the radiator hose tubes. They start at 99.00 and include a lifetime warranty.

Replacing the radiator isn't very difficult, I replaced mine in about an hour. Drain coolant, disconnect hoses, disconnect transmission lines, move fan shield out of way, remove top oil cooler bracket, remove clips from radiator, and lift straight up. That's about it, installation is the reverse. This is a good time to replace hoses and coolant too. I also considered a metal radiator, but I didn't want to wait to order one, so I just tossed in another OEM. I did notice that my operating temperature decreased by about 5C with the new radiator, so it was due anyway. Maybe I'll plan ahead a little and get a metal one next time. BTW, don't over-tighten the hose clamps on the new radiator necks.

Now this is weard. I clicked into this web site to see what they have.
entered MB then year and model etc... lists three places here in Santa Cruz. but it says "chuck, do you need a price quote.?" "chuck, do you
know your engine size?" then I tried 300SD and the same thing.
Now I don`t ever go by chuck, but this is strange.
see if they use your name.

Charlie

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We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

LOL, it's not calling you Chuck, Chuck is the name of the "virtual" sales rep you were chatting with.

It didn't say, "Chuck, do you need a price quote?"

It said, "Chuck: Do you need a price quote?" like chuck was chatting with you.

Cute.

Craig is right on. Its very easy. I would just add that there are two brackets connecting the oil cooler to the radiator (upper and LOWER), they are 10mm bolts. The hose clamps should be 7mm bolts (if they are original). The transmission cooler lines are 19mm (17mm?). Have a drip pan ready for tranny fluid and something to plug the tranny lines with, maybe a pencil stub.

So:

1) Drain coolant from the radiator plug (blue plug on the drivers side) ~ 4 liters. Take the cap off the expansion tank AFTER you've pulled the plug.
2) Disconnect the three coolant hoses at the radiator (one upper, two lower).
3) Disconnect the transmission cooler lines, plug the lines.
4) Disconnect the upper and lower brackets between the oil cooler and the radiator.
5) Pry the (2) clips off that connect the fan shroud to the radiator, pull the fan shroud up a little bit and move it back out of your way. Don't try to remove it from the car.
6) Pry the (2) clips off that hold the radiator to the car. Lift the radiator up and out.
Installation is the reverse.

Actually, I only have to remove the top bracket on my car (82 300D). The radiator just lifts out of the bottom bracket without even loosening it. I don't know if they are all like that.

One note. It seems that the Nissen radiators have an improved reinforced neck!

You can get metal sleeves that go inside the radiator neck from **************.com. You can also cut you own piece of aluminum or copper pipe and epoxy it inside the neck.

His kit is $21.95 and includes the epoxy.

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I didn't notice a reinforced neck, or any insert on my replacement. I am hoping they bolstered the design up over time.

Not a bad DIY job. It took me longer than an hour, but I had a drip from the lower hose I couldn't stop....I did it without jacking up and it was a PITA>

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Okay. I am just going to put in a regular Nissens radiator. I don't like calling places to order things and prefer to order on the internet. Should I replace anything else while I'm changing it out? The hoses look fine but again, I'm no mechanic. The piece from the radiator did break off into the hose, so I should probably order a new one of those. Just wondering since I have it off I should order anything else.