Front Drivers side banged in. How hard to fix? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

C Sean Watts · #16 07-26-2007, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

Thanks for all the feed back. I did not see the orignal fender, replacement is in the back of the car. The problem I have is that the frame (? its unibody so not really frame) where the top of the fender mounts is accordianed a bit and that is some thick metal. If I were to use a come along etc would I be pulling it back out the way it came or do I pull side to side to bend it straight? The sheet metal in the fender etc I am not so worried about. Also how do you keep the car from moving using a come along/winch? Chock up the tires etc?

and take out the lights, I would try this. Try and get two pull points going.
One straight forward (opposite the direction of impact) Then the other perpendicular to that one (you might have to drill, insert bolt(s) and nut them down some with LARGE fender washers). With some forward pull you will be surprised how fast that crease will want to level out.

winmutt · #17 07-27-2007, 09:28 AM

I really appreciate everyones comments here. The original lights are still in ther believe it or not. I am not so worried about the bulbs! I will be removing the entire light assembly.

I pulled upon my artistic talent for the drawrrring below. The plan is to find a location where I can simultaenously pull on the car from all 4 angles. The red lines are for the original, yellow for current state and blue for directions of force. Everybody with me now? Am I on the right plan of action here. I am mostly worried about the long red line as that is very thick steel (two sheets?). So four of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=543 and 4 nice sturdy trees aught to do the job right? I should be appling most of the pressure front, with the rear anchored and applying a decent amount of force sideways. Perhaps start sideways first until the metal is about to bend and the pull forward? How do I go about anchoring the forward pulling one in such a manner that it doesn't just rip the sheet metal?

Did I mention this is to fix my new wagon? 84 300TD $1800 200k no blow by, rest of the body is ok (no big dents) but with some work and new paint shell be quite the looker.

C Sean Watts · #18 07-27-2007, 10:40 AM

Use chocks and your tie down points simultaneously (U - shaped, under the front and rear). Don't rely on just one anchor, use as many ways as practical. FWIW, I would start the forward pull first. (No rocket science here, I just hung around my uncle's body shop a lot). BUT, it will make the 'accordion' section want to straighten on its own (or at least with less pull force.)