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#1
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84 300D oil canister problem, advice much needed
Came across a major oil leak today, tightened down the bolts to the canister that hold the oil, then took it off completely to find that the plastic gasket ring was slipping down inside. I put it back on, oil still leaked, I got it to almost stop completely before I made the idiotic move of overtightening it and breaking the bolt completely.
Now, my question is what is the best way of going about fixing this? I noticed that the bolt or stud, went all the way through which leads me to believe I can tap it out and insert another, or healacoil and re thread it, or if worst comes to worse I can use a whole new bolt to tighten the top down, after drilling the old broken one out. Also was wondering if I need a new top to the canister, could mine be warped? Or would doubling up on the rubber ring help to prevent oil from leaking? Everybodies advice is muccchhhh appreciated, Thanks, Tay. |
#2
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when did you last change that ring? Does the canister top fit nicely on the canister or is it wobbly?
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#3
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it seems to fit nicely, no wobbles i'm guessing the ring was changed 6 months ago. Got any solutions as to the stripped bolt?
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#4
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Taylor,
My oil filter leaked shortly after I changed the oil filter. I had installed the new o-ring that came with the filter. So I took top off filter and replaced the "new" o-ring. No more problems. I can't explain why a new o-ring failed but replacing it with another o-ring fixed the problem. Now an oil filter o-ring is a part of my repair parts pack. P E H |
#5
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It's actually a stud, not a bolt. Is the stud broken off, or are the threads stripped inside the canister? If it's broken, is any of the stud sticking out of the canister (with the cover removed).
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#6
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I would remove the filter housing from the engine, then drill the proper size and use an EZ-out to extract the broken stud. Replace the stud- an air cooled VW exhaust stud would do- and clean the filter housing thoroughly. Re-fit to the engine and buy a torque wrench so you don't do it again.
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#7
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I would cover the top of the filter housing with duct tape, drill the stud and try removing it with a broken screw extractor, with the filter housing remaining on the engine.
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#8
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Thanks for all the input. I will look into these methods. Craig, the stud is sticking out a bit. Are they removable? I have yet to try anything, I wanted to weigh out my options, as well as goto a wrecking yard to get a new lid for the canister in case it was bent.
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#9
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If there is enough of the stud sticking out, I would try a stud removal socket before anything else. I bought a set from Harbor Freight some years ago when I was trying to get some seized studs off the head of an Atomic 4 flathead.
If there's not enough for a stud removal socket, I'd try a good set of vice grips.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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Quote:
I broke one of mine a few months ago, I tried to get it out with vice-grips but I just messed up the threads. Then I screwed the nut onto the damaged threads until it jammed, and I was able to unscrew the stud with out any problem. That may not be the best solution, but it worked. I bought two new studs and nuts from the dealer so it wouldn't happen again. It seems unlikely that you bent the cover, they will leak if the o-ring is not properly installed. |
#11
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The canister would get damaged before the lid could. The lid is very stoutly engineered and with all the reinforcing ribs present in the lid it is very unlikely to warp.
__________________
DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 |
#12
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When trying to extract the stud, probably a bit of heat applied to the parent metal will help loosten it.
Use a soldering torch not a welding torch. Actually, given that having done this in the first place I conclude that you probably do not have a lot of general wrenching experience, I would take it to a good automotive machine shop and watch an expert do it and then I would know how to do it in the future. I doubt that you can damage either part of an oil filter houseing by tightening the nut too tight. It will be the best ten dollars or so you ever spent. Good luck. Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#13
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When trying to extract the stud, probably a bit of heat applied to the parent metal will help loosten it.
Use a soldering torch not a welding torch. Actually, given that having done this in the first place I conclude that you probably do not have a lot of general wrenching experience, I would take it to a good automotive machine shop and watch an expert do it and then I would know how to do it in the future. I doubt that you can damage either part of an oil filter houseing by tightening the nut too tight. If you damage the housig so much it has to be changed.....it is a lot of bother to get off. It will be the best ten dollars or so you ever spent. Good luck. Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#14
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Taylor,
Aluminum (AL) expands 3 times as much as steel so heating the AL should loosen the stud. Heat should also help to break the bond between AL and steel. U are lucky to have enough of the stud sticking out to get a grip on it. I would use a vise grip to try to turn it. P E H |
#15
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Alrighty, you guys are awesome, lets hope this works! So a mercedes dealer will carry this stud? I have my fingers crossed. Thanks again, Tay.
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