Front Shocks: Do I really need to jack the front end?
 

I've done several sets of shocks throughout the years, and usually try to get by without jacking if I can. Since they are a surface-bolted item (fronts) versus the back ones (fed in from below), is it really even nessesary to get the front end up? Thanks.

Not necessarily if you can press down on the old shock easilly so you can slide it off the top. But it also helps with loosening the bottom 2 bolts. Howver, must be careful not to elevate to much due to springs.....

Correction:

As everyone pointed, because it is necessary to take the wheel off to gain better access to the lower bolts, then Yah, jack it is. Although, I seem to remember that turning the wheels may allow good access to the bolts also.

Yeah, the whole spring thing was what I was getting at. I just planned on jacking the body up enough to gain access, but leaving the wheels grounded for support.

One option is to jack up the front end, then lower the LCA onto a jack stand to slightly compress the spring and take the load off the shock.

IIRC, loosen top bolt, jack up to get shock out. You'll have to remove wheel to gain access to lower shock bolts. You'll also need a 12 point 10mm socket, there isn't much room there. As tango... bolt in bottom, lower down on LCA, as you guide shock into place. I've done the fronts alone, rears help to have someone inside car when guiding in.

Well, if I half to pull the wheel, then I guess I do have to jack it up then. I haven't actually looked at the bottom mount yet, so I wasn't sure.

You could always pay someone to do it!

Hah! Yeah right.

OK, OK... the first time I did a set, I had help, so when I did the fronts on the 240 it went pretty smooth. Sold the car before I got around to the rears. The front shocks came with a socket for the lower bolts. I bought the first set from http://**************.com and the fronts from http://***********************

On the w123, the shock provides the stop for the spring extension, so yes you are right to be concerned. But there's also a stop up underneath the upper control arm that will prevent hyper extension of the spring. You are supposed to be able to trust that stop, but I don't know how solid they really are (mine seem solid enough to trust, so they are probably OK if in good condition).

I've been reading the FSM for all sorts of front end related stuff recently, and as I recall, they recommend putting a jackstand under the lower control arm to prevent it from moving downward enough for the UCA to hit it's stop. Note, they aren't talking about supporting the vehicle on it, just preventing the UCA stop from taking the load. I'd recommend you double check me on this.. I might have it confused with some other front end related work procedure.

No matter how you figure it, you'll need to take the wheel off to get to the lower bolts. You'll also probably want to turn the wheel to provide better access to those bolts. Personally, I'd probably just pop the tie rod ball from the steering knuckle arm so I could rotate the hub extra far for better access.. but I've gotten pretty adept at popping ball joints by now. :)

That is serious overkill :) 12-point sockets are pretty standard anymore.. just need a high quality one with thin walls (I bought mine at Sears or Ace Hardware years ago to replace the cheepo one I chewed into oblivion.. Harbor Freight probably isn't the place to look for one :))

Yeah, 12 point thin wall made in Mexico so you're aware of it's quality! Hey, I'm not going to argue with a free tool. My other sockets are six point anyway. I thought including it was a nice gesture.